robdhc
Part of things
Posts: 186 
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Feb 27, 2022 19:22:16 GMT
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Good Day fellow RRs Long time reader, not so often contributor here (latter down to lack of knowledge and/or interesting stories to share!). I'm after a bit of help with my 1.3 1989 Mk2 Golf, which was sort of running, and no longer is.. Before my plea for help, some pictures to tease you into an otherwise relatively dull post When I bought it, 2014  At RRG, 2015  Start of the "restoration", 2016  Peak "restoration", 2018  Oh so nearly finished, 2022 (if this works...) imgur.com/X0fA9YHToday's equivalent would be repeated attempts at starting, followed by ... nothing For context, I am a complete amateur with cars, entirely self taught and more curious than talented. That resulted in a multitude of errors during this "restoration", which I've done myself - with the exception of welding (another mistake but for another time). These errors include (relevant to the engine): - Not properly sealing/protecting the block when exhaust manifold was removed (including during transportation during rain) - Not properly sealing/protecting the carburettor when air intake/filter removed (including during transportation during rain) - Only tarting up / replacing engine ancillaries, not a full deep dive into it (it did run fairly reliably before) - Fitting a cheap electrical fuel pump cheap electrical fuel pump since I can't get the mechanical one to work off the cam as it should Between it running on Wednesday and it not on Thursday, all I did was chase and coolant leaks (very very minor ones) and refill with the correct ratio, and fit the airbox plus air filter etc. I had to reposition the fuel pump as a result, which may have resulted in a kink in the hose? Pic below. Since Thursday I have messed about with the timing and carb mixture, which in hindsight was a very silly thing to do Possible symptoms I've since spotted as follows, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves Rocker cover removed     Coolant loss in ~36hrs (no visible exterior leaks at all)  Kink in fuel hose  Filthy carb (since cleaned best I can, to no avail) 
To get to my point, with an MOT booked in for this coming Wednesday - what should I do and where should I start?!
As you can tell, I'm in a constant state of winging it, and I'd be extremely grateful for any advice! Thank you in advance for any replies, and in present for the inspirational content which has got me this far already Cheers Rob |
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Last Edit: Feb 27, 2022 19:24:52 GMT by robdhc
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Might be a bit late as your MOT appointment will have come and gone in the meantime.
1. What do the spark plugs look like? You can tell a lot from that. If they're wet because the engine has flooded then you can use a cigarette lighter to burn off the excess fuel and it is much more likely to start. The flame will turn yellow when it is burning petrol and oil and when it has burnt off the flame will turn back to the colour of lighter gas. While the plugs are out disable the fuel pump by removing the fuse and then run the engine for around 20 rotations with the plugs out and that will clear the cylinders through the plug holes. If some of that coolant is getting into the cylinders then you'll see it spurting out at this point. Get a helper to do the cranking while you watch the plug holes.
2. Compression test is easy to do and is a very good thing to do as a basic healthcheck on any motor. 'Even' is what you're looking for although if they were all in the red part of the gauge that would be both epic and tragic at the same time.
3. The cooling system should go up and down by about 1/2 a tank depending on engine temp. When hot it'll expand so a cold system should be AT LEAST half empty.
4. Do you remember the basic 'fire triangle' from your science lessons at school? That applies rigidly to car engines. Air, fuel, ignition. All must be right or the engine won't run. Check / verify each of these.
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robdhc
Part of things
Posts: 186
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Thanks ejenner for the reply - I did read this (and have since applied some of the steps) but as you said MOT time had passed and I'd spat my dummy out by then! đ On the plus side, it now runs! What I perhaps hadn't made clear (and video doesn't appear to have uploaded) is that it had been running, but then promptly failed to started. In hindsight I think it just struggled with cold starts, and my lack of patience It runs rich for sure, partly down to the Cheap fuel pump no doubt. That said, it'll do me for now until I can have it properly tuned. I need to do a compression test too, if I find a model specific guide/video I'll stick it on here for future reference Cheers Rob |
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,235
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Thanks ejenner for the reply - I did read this (and have since applied some of the steps) but as you said MOT time had passed and I'd spat my dummy out by then! đ On the plus side, it now runs! What I perhaps hadn't made clear (and video doesn't appear to have uploaded) is that it had been running, but then promptly failed to started. In hindsight I think it just struggled with cold starts, and my lack of patience It runs rich for sure, partly down to the Cheap fuel pump no doubt. That said, it'll do me for now until I can have it properly tuned. I need to do a compression test too, if I find a model specific guide/video I'll stick it on here for future reference Cheers Rob Unless the fuel pump is so powerful itâs making fuel physically leak into the inlet manifold it canât make the car run rich  |
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robdhc
Part of things
Posts: 186
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Unless the fuel pump is so powerful itâs making fuel physically leak into the inlet manifold it canât make the car run rich And this is precisely why I lurk on the forum rather than post! Cheers, Rob |
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But not knowing what the pump is and what pressure the carb expects, it could be upsetting the fuel levels.
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Thanks ejenner for the reply - I did read this (and have since applied some of the steps) but as you said MOT time had passed and I'd spat my dummy out by then! đ On the plus side, it now runs! What I perhaps hadn't made clear (and video doesn't appear to have uploaded) is that it had been running, but then promptly failed to started. In hindsight I think it just struggled with cold starts, and my lack of patience It runs rich for sure, partly down to the Cheap fuel pump no doubt. That said, it'll do me for now until I can have it properly tuned. I need to do a compression test too, if I find a model specific guide/video I'll stick it on here for future reference Cheers Rob Unless the fuel pump is so powerful itâs making fuel physically leak into the inlet manifold it canât make the car run rich Well actuallyâŚâŚ in the world of cars with Stromberg and SU carbs, this is very much a thing. The âwill-fit-but-might-not-workâ pumps often sold for them produce too much pressure (5 - 8 psi rather than 1 - 3 psi) which forces its way past the float chamber needle valve leading to rich running or outright flooding, especially at idle when fuel demand is low. On some of them you can reduce the running pressure by packing them away from the block with thicker or extra gaskets. So it might actually be a thing - not sure how pressure sensitive the VW carb is. Nick |
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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If its running a PI$$berg carb thay do random non-working and are a big bag of poo.
Auto choke? If so could be stuck closed causing it to run rich and soaking plugs.
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Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
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dragon
Part of things
Posts: 148
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Have you changed the vapour (trap) eliminator. Part number 052 127 177c. It's a bit of a fiddle to do but will also allow you to change the fuel hoses at the same time.
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robdhc
Part of things
Posts: 186
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Now then, where to start? Thanks for all the replies and feedback firstly smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0871TZLF1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_EMWJX3RZFDYP0FQBS0W4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1This is the cheap and nasty pump it's got on at the moment. So I guess "low" pressure isn't low enough! (looks to be at 3-8psi) This would also correlate with the seepage of fuel from the vapour eliminator, which hasn't been replaced, and the fact that playing about with the carb mixture settings makes seemingly no difference whatsoever Coupled with the fact it is a pooberg carb, thus meaning the autochoke is effectively my right foot at present, I think this is why we're at where we are I should add, the electric fuel pump is only a temporary measure, as soon as I can work out why the mechanical fuel pump works when encouraged to do so by hand, but then won't when off the cam, it'll be back on With the MOT now looming tomorrow, I'll consider it a success if I make it to the station... Cheers for all the thought-provoking input/advice so far Cheers, Rob |
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Last Edit: May 9, 2022 10:25:04 GMT by robdhc
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