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Dec 13, 2021 16:03:09 GMT
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As predicted this time of year the garage is not in as good shape as I'd hoped for. It's 12ft by 24ft prefab which I have lined with cls and ply so there is room behind the boards and left it a couple inches from the floor. The roof is corrugated so has plenty of gaps to allow air.
I noticed condensation last week and tried a small fan to circulate which seemed like it was working at first but then seemed like it was making it worse.. I have tried a heater for the last couple of days but I'm unsure of what it's actually doing at the moment as floor is still wet.
Reading online alot mention dehumidifier which is probs my next move.. But Google is giving me mixed advise when it comes to temp and air movements some say don't use heat
What has everyone else done to sort this issue out?
Thanks
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Last Edit: Dec 13, 2021 22:04:26 GMT by Rich
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Dec 13, 2021 17:25:03 GMT
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Stopping the temperature change is the key, seal up all the gaps and install insulation.
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Dec 13, 2021 18:49:28 GMT
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Hi, What heater are you using? Diesel, paraffin or gas will produce as much water as the fuel used.
Colin
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Dec 13, 2021 19:37:34 GMT
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Stopping the temperature change is the key, seal up all the gaps and install insulation. Are you not supposed to have ventilation though alot of Google mentions it that's why I left the roof as in thinking it would do it good |
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Dec 13, 2021 19:40:08 GMT
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Hi, What heater are you using? Diesel, paraffin or gas will produce as much water as the fuel used. Colin It's only a electric fan heater at the mo.. The round ones that look like a baby space heater.. Was considering one of those oriental night heaters but I'm a bit up in the air with it at the moment as do I need extraction.. Heat or dehumidifier or is it a combination |
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Dec 13, 2021 20:09:36 GMT
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Ideally you want a ventilated air gap (not completely open but open enough to allow a small movement of air), a vapour barrier, then insulation. Your biggest enemy is the roof, I splurged out on 100mm insulated kingspan roofing panels, for the walls I put up 50mm battens, put a roofing membrane over them and then another 50mm batten then the 18mm ply, that gives me a double air gap which seems to work well.
BTW The dehumidifier will only work if the ambient temperature is above 5deg C, so you will need to run the heater and the dehumidifier at the same time.
check my garage build thread in the down below for more info.
Dan
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Dec 14, 2021 10:40:17 GMT
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Corrugated roofs are terrible for condensation. Ventilation works primarily by keeping the inside temperature the same as the outside and the roof / walls. Condensation occurs when warmer moisture laden air hits a colder surface, if you want to prevent it you either need loads of ventilation and keep the garage as cold as it is outside or insulate all the inside surfaces so the warmer air inside doesn't contact the cold walls / roof. The multifoil insulation works really well, staple it to battens, counter batten then fit ply/osb etc.
Heating the garage as it is will make things worse, the air will get warmer and when this hits the cold surfaces the moisture in it will condense out.
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Dec 14, 2021 11:01:43 GMT
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If you do go for a dehumidifier go for one of the dessicant ones as they work at lower temperatures.
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brachunky
Scotland
Posts: 1,339 
Club RR Member Number: 72
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Dreaded condensationbrachunky
@brachunky
Club Retro Rides Member 72
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Dec 14, 2021 11:02:15 GMT
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I had a steel single garage put up a few years back with a double skin roof. The wall's and door were lined with cheap polystyrene sheets and a small home made log burner fitted. There were odd times over the 5 years I would get a misting on some tools when very cold but never had drips coming from the roof. That worked for me as a workshop! (The entry concrete was eventually sorted)   |
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Dec 16, 2021 14:05:57 GMT
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Could I piggyback this thread, pretty please?  This is the inside of the garage I'm just starting to do up (to the best of my limited capabilities, such as they are!) With this kind of roof construction, could I use the foil-coated bubble wrap insulation, stapled across the bottom of the joists, without causing condensation above? Just got the roller door up yesterday, and the old window and door are going soon, the new ones will be double-glazed (trickle vents in the window) The reason I ask, in my old council garage, when we did loads of car stereo projects. To make it more comfortable in the winter, we stapled normal bubble wrap under the joists, and this did seem to work well (bubble wrap was FOC from work) but I know many people cry BS when the foil is mentioned, and I'm also worried about causing condensation above the foil? Let me know what you think? If it's a "no" due to condensation, I won't be worrying about any other kinds of insulation, partly due to cost, mostly due to my aforementioned limited capabilities! Thanks in advance |
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Dec 16, 2021 14:06:49 GMT
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...also, don't laugh at my "workshop light" !!!
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Dec 16, 2021 21:03:09 GMT
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Idealy you need some cross ventilation to the roof above the insulation, Is there a gap under the facia boards? If so it will be fine as you will have ventilation above the insulation. If not could you add some vents to them?
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Dec 16, 2021 21:37:41 GMT
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There doesn't appear to be any ventilation anywhere (except for drafty old door and window!) Could I get away with drilling a hole in each of the bricks between the joists (arròwed), they'd be above the foil?  |
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Dec 16, 2021 21:38:25 GMT
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I guess it's like a brick shed really?
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I looked at in on my phone yesterday and didn't realise they were bricks! but yes if drill a hole in each brick end and add some sort of grille to keep the mice out that would work fine, you would need to seal all the joints in the insulation and seal it to the wall for it to work properly. If you can stretch to it the multi foil stuff is much better than foil backed bubble wrap, look in ebay people sell ends of rolls etc which saves quite a bit over new.
I usually staple it up then add batons perpendicular to the rafters to hold it up, you can also attach a board of some sort to the batons if you want a ceiling, thin ply works fine.
If you search out timber or builders merchants rather than DIY store they usually do bundles of baton timber for a reasonable price.
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Last Edit: Dec 17, 2021 9:47:10 GMT by kevins
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Dec 17, 2021 21:03:25 GMT
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As Kevins said. Its most important to ensure the sheeting is fully sealed at joints and edges so warmer air in the garage cannot creep around the insulated sheet and condense on the underside of the cold roof.
Consider the vapour barrier as being like the hull of a boat, any gaps and it will be pointless !
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Dec 19, 2021 19:01:38 GMT
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As Kevins said. Its most important to ensure the sheeting is fully sealed at joints and edges so warmer air in the garage cannot creep around the insulated sheet and condense on the underside of the cold roof. Consider the vapour barrier as being like the hull of a boat, any gaps and it will be pointless ! Yet we happily put loads of holes in it to fit downlighters and cut away the insulation around then to comply with fire regs ... |
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Last Edit: Dec 19, 2021 22:08:22 GMT by Rich
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Dec 20, 2021 16:26:24 GMT
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And the regs used to call (may well still do) for windows with low e glass, thermally broken frame and draught proof seals then also require you cut a damn great slot through the frame for ventilation!
not a lot of joined up thinking in those that make these regs.
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Dec 21, 2021 20:17:27 GMT
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Air source pump, cheap options are available, from about £375, obviously dependent on having an electrical supply
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