bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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whilst out I will hunt for a connector to join the new plastic soil to the original cast iron one. I am expecting this to be a pain as the original WC waste exits above floor level, and my plan is to run the new one below, between the joists, so a fair bit of work, and noise right oppostite Andi's office. I may leave that task until the weekend; it's not as if I can't find something else to do here. [/div] [/quote] Accoustic batt insulation under the floor help a lot in bathrooms I'd be a bit concerned about the lack of fall on a soil pipe running from one side of the bathroom to the other under the floor However it's an old style toilet with a decent cistern capacity so a decent volume of flush unlike the modern 4 - 6 Litre modern ones which struggle to flush away a curse word so you'd probably get away with it |
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[/div] [/quote] Accoustic batt insulation under the floor help a lot in bathrooms I'd be a bit concerned about the lack of fall on a soil pipe running from one side of the bathroom to the other under the floor However it's an old style toilet with a decent cistern capacity so a decent volume of flush unlike the modern 4 - 6 Litre modern ones which struggle to flush away a curse word so you'd probably get away with it [/quote][/div] [/quote][/quote]
I think that you misunderstood about the noise aspect; I am not concerned about sound attenuation when the bathroom is in use  , rather the racket from breaking through the wall for the new soil pipe.
Soil pipe fall should be between 1:40 and 1:80 to flush away all solids (and comply with building regulations), which means a maximum of 62.5mm and a minimum of 31.25 mm for the 2.5m run from the WC pan to the soil stack. The joist depth is sufficient to allow greater than the maximum desired fall.
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Last Edit: Feb 9, 2022 5:49:34 GMT by etypephil
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Feb 14, 2022 19:03:31 GMT
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I had noticed a stain on the pasterboard below this bodgework, but had taken it to be a flux spillage during installation; it hadn't occurred to me that a "professional" would make a defective joint and not notice it when testing.
This will be taken out shortly, so I have put a tray underneath it to catch the seepage in the meantime.
Back to breaking through the wall in what I calculated to be the desired position, until Andi had a lback to back series of conference calls
meaning a diversion to something quieter, refurbishing door handles
the main problem is broken return springs:
a bit of a pain to dismantle as the reaction plates are fixed by the hub of lever being peened over, instead of being fixed with circlips.
I carefully ground away the minimum with a mini rotary multi tool ( a fake Dremel)
refixed with a seam of epoxy resin:
A little more progress removing the old SVP, in between showers today
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Last Edit: Feb 15, 2022 5:04:15 GMT by etypephil
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When refitting the door handles, I noticed that now they returned fully, those to the inner front door still didn't operate the original latch properly, several degrees of wasted handle movement before any at the latch, and barely disengaging eough to open the door. This is what I found inside the lock:
the locks probably haven't been lubricated since they were fitted 84 years ago, so a little wear is to be expected, and this is probably the most used one in the house.
I had kept the surviving locks from the doors which I recently replaced "because they might come in handy", so it was a simple matter to select better components from one of those:
Light lubrication before reassembly restored perfect operation.
Back to SVP removal when it gets light, if it doesn't rain, again.
In the meantime, dog walking and catching up with what others are up to here.
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Last Edit: Feb 15, 2022 5:27:58 GMT by etypephil
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Feb 17, 2022 20:17:47 GMT
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Missed this update.
Good work on the locks.
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Feb 18, 2022 18:47:53 GMT
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Back to the bathroom, hacking through the wall for the new underfloor soil pipe; the walls unusually for such an old house are insulated cavity about 13" thick, so I had to tackle this from both sides:
The heating to the French room below was fed from here (in anticipation of the bathroom job I had fitted valves on the flow and return under the corridor floor last year whilst the system was drained for cleaning) so I was able to tap into the pipework for bathroom heating, taking the opportunity to alter the route to the French room so that I can add another desperately needed radiator there. Probably not tomorrow though. Because the soil pipe needs to run through the natural route of the heating pipework to the vertical radiator being fitted to the left, I ran the pipes serving it below the soil pipe route. A little tortuous for my limited plumbing skills:
The unfinished pipes to the right are for the towel radiator.
One of the trees in our front garden was brought down by today's storm narrowly missing a neighbouring house. I had parked the Jag well away from the trees at the far end of the drive, but the Jeep's battery was flat so it had to take its chances. Something else to deal with tomorrow.
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Feb 19, 2022 10:56:28 GMT
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That's not so good, there was a fair few trees down near me yesterday too, in the plus column though, looks like you've got a pretty good supply of logs for your fire right there.
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Feb 19, 2022 17:37:23 GMT
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One of the trees in our front garden was brought down by today's storm narrowly missing a neighbouring house. I had parked the Jag well away from the trees at the far end of the drive, but the Jeep's battery was flat so it had to take its chances. Something else to deal with tomorrow. The one to the side of the house doesn't look long for staying upright either: |
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Todos con Lorca
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Feb 19, 2022 22:19:30 GMT
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Neat plumbing work, and bonus free logs in a couple of years time! Happy days.
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1968 Mini MkII, 1968 VW T1, 1967 VW T1, 1974 VW T1, 1974 VW T1 1303, 1975 Mini 1000 auto, 1979 Chevette, 1981 Cortina, 1978 Mini 1000 1981 Mini City, 1981 Mini van, 1974 Mini Clubman, 1982 Metro City, 1987 Escort, 1989 Lancia Y10, 1989 Cavalier, 1990 Sierra, 1990 Renault 19, 1993 Nova, 1990 Citroen BX, 1994 Ford Scorpio, 1990 Renault Clio, 2004 Citroen C3, 2006 Citroen C2, 2004 Citroen C4, 2013 Citroen DS5. 2017 DS3 130 Plenty of other scrappers!
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One of the trees in our front garden was brought down by today's storm narrowly missing a neighbouring house. I had parked the Jag well away from the trees at the far end of the drive, but the Jeep's battery was flat so it had to take its chances. Something else to deal with tomorrow. The one to the side of the house doesn't look long for staying upright either: That cherry tree is the one which worried me the most, and was the reason for wanting to move the cars out of the way; it's very tall, has shallow roots, and is aimed at the rising sun. It barely lost anything in the storm, so clearly it's more healthy and stable than it looks.
ETA:
Yesterday, with the assistance of a couple of neighbours, Andi, a trolley jack, various cutting tools, and a decent chainsaw, enough of the fallen silver birch was cleared to allow use of the driveways before torrential rain sent us all heading for warm baths and tea:
We are sharing the logs with the helpful neighbours; the quantity from just one tree is amazing, and several bags of small twigs await the tip. The plan is to finish off this morning.
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Last Edit: Feb 20, 2022 7:41:43 GMT by etypephil
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Can you not burn off the twiggy bits on the property somewhere and save yourself tip fees? Or chip them for mulch?
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Feb 20, 2022 11:47:12 GMT
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Can you not burn off the twiggy bits on the property somewhere and save yourself tip fees? Or chip them for mulch? Yes I could, and may do that, we have ample space, but would then have to supervise the fire. Our tip doesn’t charge (extra over the £203 monthly council tax👹) for garden waste, and is only a ten minute drive away; six of one and half a dozen of the other. |
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Feb 20, 2022 20:22:36 GMT
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Don't know if it's any good to you etypephil, but when I had willow pollarded a couple of years ago, the guys who did it for me said that the chippings went to fuel a powerstation somewhere, and they sold them to the company who took them there. Maybe at least someone might take the smaller stuff for free? Although uprooted trees are not exactly in short supply right now....🙄 |
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As well as a fallen tree and sundry branches, the recent storms collected leaves, apparently from the whole planet, and dumped them into our gutters and drains:
just one more thing to occupy me instead of getting on with the bathroom.
Andi caught covid, presumably from me since she has barely been out of the house for weeks; instead of staying in bed for a few days to recover, she staggered to her desk and continued working, which meant that I had to play nurse, cook etc for several days whilst pushing forward very slowly with the bathroom heating, and drainage:
I had a little mortar left over from making good so used it to repair some minor cracks above the kitchen window.
Yesterday I cut the holes in the new flooring to accomodate the wastes, stripped out yet more redundant wiring from under the corridor floor, and made a start on the hot and cold water supply, at last:
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Tut, tut, tut.
Whoever did the original plumbing did not know how to cut joists.
Pipes should always be approx 60mm down from top of joist (so nails cant puncture them) and cutting grooves into the top of the joist severely weakens them (can't remember how much but it's something like 40%!) compared to drilling a hole for pipes to pass through.
Anyway, good progress is being made, hope Andi is recovering.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Notching joists like that was pretty much common practice for retrofitting central heating to houses built without it in the days before plastic pipe. You can’t feed copper pipe through a hole 60mm down from the top.
Notching the top isn’t ideal, but it’s way better than notching the bottom. Wood is stronger in compression than tension, so taking it from the top is taking it from the stronger edge of the joist. Putting floorboards back down over the top, screwed either side of the notch, restores most of the lost strength.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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The original steel pipe heating system and conduit enclosed wiring was installed by notching the joists, I have used existing notches wherever possible, likewise avoiding cutting the joists close to the centre of their spans.
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I was not criticising, just making the observation. They have lasted this long so I don't think the strength losses are important.
It's just suprising how much strength is lost by cutting a small notch in a joist though, as noted above it's a big amount. The joists will never see a loading that would actually make the lossses important though.
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You'd better replan the position of the grand piano!
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You'd better replan the position of the grand piano! 😂😂 |
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, rather the racket from breaking through the wall for the new soil pipe.
