|
|
|
|
|
When we moved home a year ago, one of the attractions of the house was the existing brick garage, another rather dilapidated wooden one, ideal for general storage after a bit of tarting up, and ample space for an additional large garage / workshop. Restoration and alterations to the house have eaten more cash than expected, and I have bought another two cars which leaves me with not very much at all for the workshop. The workhorse Jeep happily lives outside, but the roofless Marlin definitely needs a fixed abode, so temporarily I have rearranged the wooden garage, and made some repairs to the structure by jacking it up and letting in new timber to replace that which has rotted.
The question is: given an area 6 metres X 11 metres, what is the most cost effective way of providing maximum garage / workshop (I believe that this qualifies under permitted development rukes)? Does anyone have experience of used sectional garages or other buildings? These are my first thought, as they seem to sell for very little, but am looking for any solution.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The strength of the floor/sub base would kind of dictate what building you could do hard to see in pics, looks solid though.
Them concrete ones can be a bummer for condenstion, cold and are heavy. I'd go for a double skinned - insulated wooden, looks like a lot of that wood could be reused which would help budget and planet a nice shingle tiled roof is light and would help with height and air flow
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I have a sectional garage and they are cold. I don't suffer with condensation in mine but that's probably due to the numerous gaps all round it. On the plus side, concrete sectional garages do pop up from time to time for free or cheap as long as you dismantle them but they are HEAVY. A large van or flat bed will be required along with a strapping chum to shift them. Be careful of old ones with potential asbestos roof's too.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The strength of the floor/sub base would kind of dictate what building you could do hard to see in pics, looks solid though. Them concrete ones can be a bummer for condenstion, cold and are heavy. I'd go for a double skinned - insulated wooden, looks like a lot of that wood could be reused which would help budget and planet a nice shingle tiled roof is light and would help with height and air flow forkliftfred Avatar forkliftfred forkliftfredyesterday at 15:35 I have a sectional garage and they are cold. I don't suffer with condensation in mine but that's probably due to the numerous gaps all round it. On the plus side, concrete sectional garages do pop up from time to time for free or cheap as long as you dismantle them but they are HEAVY. A large van or flat bed will be required along with a strapping chum to shift them. Be careful of old ones with potential asbestos roof's too. Thanks gents. For the sake of clarity, the plan is for the wooden garage eventually to revert to general storage / household workshop use, and for the Marlin to live in the yet to be constructed garage / motor workshop with the XJ and the wife's car which is currently in the existing brick garage which can then be occupied by the long suffering Jeep. There is a convenient space 11 metres X 6 metres in the garden about 8 metres opposite the brick garage. I will have to suffer the cost of a sound concrete base, on that I hope to construct something not too offensive at minimal cost, hence the idea of concrete sectional which could be rendered and painted. A fancy cart lodge with electric doors would be ideal, but I'll be about 103 years old before I could afford that.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The strength of the floor/sub base would kind of dictate what building you could do hard to see in pics, looks solid though. Them concrete ones can be a bummer for condenstion, cold and are heavy. I'd go for a double skinned - insulated wooden, looks like a lot of that wood could be reused which would help budget and planet a nice shingle tiled roof is light and would help with height and air flow forkliftfred Avatar forkliftfred forkliftfred yesterday at 15:35 I have a sectional garage and they are cold. I don't suffer with condensation in mine but that's probably due to the numerous gaps all round it. On the plus side, concrete sectional garages do pop up from time to time for free or cheap as long as you dismantle them but they are HEAVY. A large van or flat bed will be required along with a strapping chum to shift them. Be careful of old ones with potential asbestos roof's too. Thanks gents. For the sake of clarity, the plan is for the wooden garage eventually to revert to general storage / household workshop use, and for the Marlin to live in the yet to be constructed garage / motor workshop with the XJ and the wife's car which is currently in the existing brick garage which can then be occupied by the long suffering Jeep. There is a convenient space 11 metres X 6 metres in the garden about 8 metres opposite the brick garage. I will have to suffer the cost of a sound concrete base, on that I hope to construct something not too offensive at minimal cost, hence the idea of concrete sectional which could be rendered and painted. A fancy cart lodge with electric doors would be ideal, but I'll be about 103 years old before I could afford that.
The garages at my mums house when I lived there were made of studwork with 12mm marine plywood on the outside, so far they are over 20 years old and still doing fine. The only issue we had was we used corregated steel for the roof which is a nightmare for condensation.
If you wanted it to look a bit nicer you could clad it in shiplap or feather edge boards to make it look more interesting.
Other than that have a look on ebay and other similar places for a concrete sectional garage near to you, having done just this at my last house though I would go for a timber structure as the concrete sectional was very damp and drafty (again not helped by the metal roof!).
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Concrete garages are fine if you line them out, mine is lined with secondhand shuttering ply which only cost £1 a sheet because the bottom was rotten (fine by me as I cut a foot off each anyway). The worst bit is the corrugated fibre concrete roofs mine is timber and ply though.
|
| |
|
|
bricol
Part of things
Posts: 290 
|
|
|
|
|
I put a concrete sectional up - part was panels from my original garage, part from another garage I took down for free, and part were seconds panels from one of the manufacturers.
Fitted a 100mm thick insulated roof bought as seconds, on taller rafter supports. Filled in the gap tp tje top of the garage panels with ply, covered with the panels cut down from the original garage metal corrugated roof. Used a powered roller shutter door to maximise internal space.
Suffered from condensation the first two winters as the base and the seconds panels continued to cure.
Been fine ever since - cold as there's no heating in there, but no condensation. If I'm working in there, I run a fan heater for while to take the chill off.
Cheap and quick.
If re-using old panels, check for cracks - the internal re-bar will keep them together, but they might leak or show wet lines when it rains.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The garages at my mums house when I lived there were made of studwork with 12mm marine plywood on the outside, so far they are over 20 years old and still doing fine. The only issue we had was we used corregated steel for the roof which is a nightmare for condensation.
If you wanted it to look a bit nicer you could clad it in shiplap or feather edge boards to make it look more interesting.
Other than that have a look on ebay and other similar places for a concrete sectional garage near to you, having done just this at my last house though I would go
Thanks, and to everyone else who has replied.
Reading all of the replies, studwork and timber cladding is becoming my favoured answer;- warmer, more aesthethically pleasing, easier to erect alone, and can be made millimetre perfect for the available space. No part has to be within one metre of my boundary, so that's not a planning / building regulation problem, but given the current price of timber, I will need to cost it carefully.
Perhaps material prices will have fallen back to normality by the time I have finished the kitchen and bathrooms, and I can get onto garaging without upsetting Mrs Etypephil.  |
| |
|
|
glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,352
Club RR Member Number: 64
|
Garage on a budget.glenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
|
|
|
|
I am contemplating a lean-to construction for one side of my existing garage. My current plan is timber stud work, clad internally with ply, and insulated inside the voids, with the outside first covered with breathable roofing membrane, then clad with self-coloured concrete weatherboarding for a largely maintenance free exterior. Roof will be insulated box profile I think, and probably near flat.
|
| |
My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The garages at my mums house when I lived there were made of studwork with 12mm marine plywood on the outside, so far they are over 20 years old and still doing fine. The only issue we had was we used corregated steel for the roof which is a nightmare for condensation.
If you wanted it to look a bit nicer you could clad it in shiplap or feather edge boards to make it look more interesting.
Other than that have a look on ebay and other similar places for a concrete sectional garage near to you, having done just this at my last house though I would go
Thanks, and to everyone else who has replied.
Reading all of the replies, studwork and timber cladding is becoming my favoured answer;- warmer, more aesthethically pleasing, easier to erect alone, and can be made millimetre perfect for the available space. No part has to be within one metre of my boundary, so that's not a planning / building regulation problem, but given the current price of timber, I will need to cost it carefully.
Perhaps material prices will have fallen back to normality by the time I have finished the kitchen and bathrooms, and I can get onto garaging without upsetting Mrs Etypephil. Something to consider is that you can clad different sides in different materials so if you want a cladding/shiplap on it on the side facing the house then you can just use marine plywood on the side facing the fence if its not generally seen.
It might help bring the cost down a bit :-)
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I see you mentioned 1m being the distance from the boundary to the new building for planning/building regulations. While building regs allow you to not worry about combustability of the cladding if you are further away from the boundary than 1m, but you might want to check that what you are going to build is permitted development. If you are building closer than 2m from the boundary the maximum height of the building is 2.5m (if you are more than 2m then it can be 4m with a pitched roof or 3m if flat). there is some basic guidance here:- ecab.planningportal.co.uk/uploads/miniguides/outbuildings/Outbuildings.pdf Good luck with the build! Cortinaman |
| |
Old Fords never die they just go sideways
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
you can just use marine plywood on the side facing the fence if its not generally seen. [/div] It might help bring the cost down a bit :-)
[/quote] Not if you actually use proper marine ply it won't! Gold leaf might be cheaper! If it won't be seen then WBP or shuttering ply or even OSB then clad it with tin sheets. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
out of interest, what is the budget.
Building materials and wood in particular are mega expensive of late.
I have been at the lockdown lockup for an age now trying to do it for as little as possible, I find materials at auctions and facebook etc can be a decent saving.
|
| |
|
|
glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,352
Club RR Member Number: 64
|
Garage on a budget.glenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
|
|
|
out of interest, what is the budget. Building materials and wood in particular are mega expensive of late. I have been at the lockdown lockup for an age now trying to do it for as little as possible, I find materials at auctions and facebook etc can be a decent saving. It’s that eternal quick/cheap/good - any two out of the three conundrum. |
| |
My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
out of interest, what is the budget. Building materials and wood in particular are mega expensive of late. I have been at the lockdown lockup for an age now trying to do it for as little as possible, I find materials at auctions and facebook etc can be a decent saving. It’s that eternal quick/cheap/good - any two out of the three conundrum. Absolutely, there is no sense in buying el-cheapo only to replace it for quality in a few years. In my mind the lockdown lockup will need to survive 30 years max, after that its someone elses problem. I think what i have built will achieve that timeline with no issue. I may require re-cladding or new doors perhaps but larch is supposed to last a long time so we will see. |
| |
|
|
glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,352
Club RR Member Number: 64
|
Garage on a budget.glenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
|
|
|
Exactly. I tend to over-engineer stuff. My brother-in-law often has to remind me that, and I quote, "you're not building a (expletive deleted) pyramid..."  |
| |
My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Exactly. I tend to over-engineer stuff. My brother-in-law often has to remind me that, and I quote, "you're not building a (expletive deleted) pyramid..." I am afraid brothers in law, just can't get their heads around a project being done well. I know the feeling. The rest of the world think that I'm mad; certainly the next owners of the property that I currently live in will have an absolute fit when and if they try moving many of the items/structures dotted around the garden. A good case in point is the base for the greenhouse, which is built using concrete blocks laid on their side. There was a dip in the garden and the builders dug the footings in the dip and then built the dwarf wall up to where the ground would eventually level out at. It looked like a swimming pool, before the whole lot was finshed off. Think 4'6" deep, just for something to plant the wooden greenhouse on. The language will be choice some day in the future. :-) |
| |
|
|
glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,352
Club RR Member Number: 64
|
Garage on a budget.glenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
|
|
|
I'm quite lucky in my brother's in-law. I have several and only one of them is an idiot. The one that I quoted as reminding me I don't necessarily need to build things to last a milennia is one of the best engineers/craftsmen I know, but he's the best part of thirty years older than me and has a perspective that's subtly different than mine. He puts all his energies into the things he wants to do, and very little into the things he has to do but would rather be doing something else.  I am, slowly, coming around to his way of thinking as i get older too... |
| |
My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
out of interest, what is the budget. Building materials and wood in particular are mega expensive of late. I have been at the lockdown lockup for an age now trying to do it for as little as possible, I find materials at auctions and facebook etc can be a decent saving. Excavations, moving fences, dropping kerbs, and laying the base will be £5k, give or take; there's not much I can do to control that, so I want to minimise the cost of the structure; I don't have an exact figure in mind, but less than £2k would be nice, less than £1k, nicer. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Jings, well good luck with that, it will be challenging to say the least.
The roof alone will blow the £1k on an 11m x 6m building and thats buying cheap materials.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
