logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Hmmm....it's probably just me, but I'm more inclined to look at any design and change the first thing about it that pokes me in the eye. Those nostrils are a prime example. I think there's very little that can't be improved in some way or another. No not just you, yes it needs some tweaking, just not quite as radically in my eyes. Yes, nearly every thing can be improved one way or another. Dan
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Dec 13, 2021 18:56:06 GMT
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Today I received a lovely letter from the DVLA, saying they have received my application for a V5c it will be processed next week and will be issuing it to me and to please allow 5 days for delivery, well I doubt the delivery time but at least it's on its way. In other news I am off in to hospital on Wednesday, so they can have another crack at fixing my back, as part of that I had to have a PCR test on Sunday morning and self-isolate until Wednesday. Within hrs, I got a bit bored, I thought about doing some housework went and then went outside to have a look at the bond engine. It's got a dolomite 1300 engine, and is a totally unknown quantity, the oil is very black but still oily, so I figured the best thing to do was to get it running. One of the things I love about my Bond is its starter solenoid which a push button, and considering the total lack of anything connected to the wiring loom that is pretty useful. It went a little something like this, plugs out and squirt some oil down the bores, whip off the rocker cover only to be greeted by a layer of carbonized black guck, thinking about it, it looked like a thin layer not like it had been driven like that for a very long time, but I forgot to take a pic for you to comment on. (ill try to get some tomorrow) Then I pressed the button, and it turned over on the starter (for the first time in my ownership), which had trouble remembering how to engage its teeth with the flywheel, once it got the idea, I kept turning it over till I saw some signs of oil from the rocker shafts, the champion plugs looked OK and were chucked back in, a known good dizzy and coil were fitted. The fuel pump didn't, and the carb did not look great, so as there were no tins of start u illegitimate child, a few squirts of brake cleaner were substituted, which got a cough but not much more, then as per drops of water started to fall from the sky, I whipped the carb off and relocated to the garage. Then suddenly I remembered I had a camera and took some pics. The dolly 1300 has a HS4 carb just like this Not too nasty but some stale petrol will take the oily stuff off before it goes for a nice relaxing sonic bath, oh and only one broken bit which is for the throttle linkage so not required at the mo. after their bath, they looked so much better I dug this out the bottom of the float bowl, mmmm, nice. The HS range of carbs have one major downside the Waxstat, a clever idea that never fails to cause odd running issues, it's a wax capsule fitted to the bottom of the jet that adjusts the mixture according to temperature, so I now delete them on sight, there are 2 ways of doing it, one is to fit a fixed jet assembly usually around £20, or and this is my preferred method, do a 2p conversion which literally costs 2p a carb. First take the jet assembly and 2 1 pence pieces Ease back, (being careful to not over bend them) 2 of the 3 retaining clips that hold the baseplate on and rotate it to take the last one off using the cutout and separate the parts Pull the steel pin out from the top of the Waxstat. Give the parts a quick clean in stale petrol, next comes the tricky bit, holding it upside down in one hand pull the jet against the spring with the other and hold it fully compressed, place the steel pin in the recess, and 2 1p coins on top and refit the baseplate, fitting the 1 unbent clip first in the cutout and clocking it back in to its original position, (if you find this doesn't work for you use a bench vice) this holds it all together while it's turned over and pressed firmly on to the bench and bend the rest of the clips back, making sure there just like a German lass, good n tight. The jet will need to be re-adjusted. The only way to see this has been done afterwards is by looking at the bottom of the jet rebuild the carb and it looks like this Tomorrow ill see if it wants to run. Dan
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Last Edit: Dec 13, 2021 19:01:51 GMT by logicaluk
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75swb
Beta Tester
Posts: 1,056
Club RR Member Number: 181
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Dec 13, 2021 20:37:38 GMT
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That might be my favourite fix of the year! Good luck in the hospital!
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Dec 13, 2021 21:02:37 GMT
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Thank you.
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Dec 14, 2021 16:07:59 GMT
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So today I headed out to the Bond, with high hopes, the carb went back on easily enough, I pulled the fuel pump off and compared it to the good pump in my hand and the lever was completely different, off to the parts stash all the pumps I had to hand were the old style for the small crank engine,(typing this I've just remembered there were a couple of fuel pumps in the car when I got it... doh) this is part of the problem And it's not rebuildable. Then I thought there's a big crank 1300 hiding in the corner of the garage, has that got a pump? Yes and my feely vision is working, as I was taking it off it made the customary asthmatic Donald Duck noise to say it was working, but after the nuts were off could I get the pump off the last bit of the stud, no. this position wasn't making my back feel good, so I walked off and stretched a bit, then it came to me the end of the lever tends to get stuck between the cam and the block, I couldn't get a decent grip on the crank pulley to shift it, but the flywheel bolts were poking out and a quarter turn and the pumps out, I thought what's the betting the other engines in the same position, and it was, how I laughed. Fuel was primed and nothing, I tried every thing I could think of to get it to start apart from buying some Start you Illegitimate Child, or bringing a running car over as I couldn't be arsed to move the trailer. Next best thing would be a compression test. Cyl 1 30 psi dry 60 with oil Cyl 2 95 dry 100 with oil Cyl 3 80 dry 110 with oil Cyl 4 70 dry 130 with oil So that's not great it might run and get better but not sure if I'm bothered it would have been nice to have it run before it came out, the crank feels good with thrust issues but, I've got a good 1200 engine to fit when the time comes. I nearly forgot the pic of the top end from yesterday for comparison, this is the engine that's sat in the corner If I had a pic of the 1200 that's going in, it would show that is gleaming inside. I will at some point build a 1500 for it, but first I need to find a single rail J type Overdrive gearbox, and they seem to be commanding quite a price at the Mo,(oh I had better start working on the car too). Dan
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Just a quickie, some weeks ago I happened to see a Bristol 402 on YouTube, today I was stood in front of a VW T4, I was looking at the lower front lower Grill, see what I'm thinking? I'll wave a tape measure over one next weekend. Dan
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Last Edit: Jan 2, 2022 18:04:27 GMT by logicaluk
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zeberdee
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,049
Club RR Member Number: 2
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I have a T4 , if you want me to measure up for you ??
The lower & upper grill is all one piece , not two separate parts .
If you find the lower grill is the right size , i’ll be replacing mine & could send you my old one ??
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Should still run with those compressions.
I once acquired a Herald 13/60 engine that had been lying outdoors in a bramble patch for some years covered only with a sheet of corrugated iron. It turned freely enough, which was moderately amazing given the storage conditions. Anyway, I only wanted the crank to replace the busted one on my otherwise healthy and highly-tuned small crank GE. However this one turned out to be a large crank GK, so I slung it in complete as a temporary measure.
Turning it over sounded like the plugs were out….. but they weren’t. Compressions all in the 20 - 30 psi range. Whipped the rocker cover off to check the valves were moving freely, and they were. So just put a few CC’s of oil in each pot popped the plugs back in and tried it again with a whiff of carb cleaner. It fired right up…… but……. Needed about 1/2 throttle just to run unloaded at 1000rpm, and chuffed a solid jet of smoke from the breather. At this point I was feeling I’d wasted a lot of effort. Then, a miracle. As it warmed up, the revs started to climb and the heavy breathing diminished. After about 20 minutes it was idling sweetly on the stop and almost nothing from the breather. Quick oil/filter change and it was absolutely fine, if very much down on power compared to the tuned one. Did a couple of thousand miles with it and sold it on when the original went back in….
So just might be worth persisting with yours.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Probably the piston rings freeing themselves off as it warmed up...
If only this would work on a 2009 Vauxhall Astra H 1.6 we have at the bodyshop, which is now down to almost nothing on the compression for #3 cylinder, despite trying ATF fluid in it and giving it a damned good thrashing. Can't see anything wrong with it, aside from removing the head or using an endoscope...
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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I have a T4 , if you want me to measure up for you ?? The lower & upper grill is all one piece , not two separate parts . If you find the lower grill is the right size , i’ll be replacing mine & could send you my old one ?? If you could, that would be great, ill pm you. Should still run with those compressions. I once acquired a Herald 13/60 engine that ......... So just might be worth persisting with yours. Nick I was intending to give it one last chance, just before it comes out, but ill move the trailer out the way and bring a running car to supply a few extra pixies to the starter. Probably the piston rings freeing themselves off as it warmed up... If only this would work on a 2009 Vauxhall Astra H 1.6 we have at the bodyshop, which is now down to almost nothing on the compression for #3 cylinder, despite trying ATF fluid in it and giving it a damned good thrashing. Can't see anything wrong with it, aside from removing the head or using an endoscope... I was given a cheap USB endoscope off eBay, it was very useful, but it won’t run on my new phone's type C connector. Dan
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Progress, I have progress to report...... Whilst I was eyeing up T4s yesterday I was invited to go camping, next weekend,...... yes in January, I thought to myself I've not done something that daft for ages (some would say since I bought the bond)and agreed without thinking about it. When I got home a problem presented its self The bond is parked in front of the caravan, I say parked, I really mean it's on maxed out axel stands. With no wheels. Dave has his wheels back, and the only wheels I've got that fit and here's the crucial bit have tiers are under the herald chassis in the garage, oops. Once again the bond club is there when you need it, I posted on the Facebook page has anyone split a GT4s from its floor pan and had a reply shortly after, which led to a phone call this morning, now I know which bits are needed I can get to it Take 1 slightly rotten Herald saloon body tub For anyone else doing this, leave an inch of boot floor behind the spring hump and cut out the boot floor, mine was cut off at the spring hump when I got it. Cut out the boot floor Then to get the wings off start at the B post and drill out the spot welds in the door opening then along the top pinch seam where the glass seal goes, then I started at the arch and cut the wing off just after it turned in this left the inner arch intact and a small return on the panel if it's ever needed for a repair on a herald, the passenger side was in very good condition and was worth taking the time to get off nicely, the drivers side was full of filler around the arch, so I was less careful. Then cut off the deck, leaving enough to support the inner window rail They say Red Bull gives you wings, I find drills, angle grinders and cold chisels work far better.
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Jan 19, 2022 14:02:24 GMT
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Today the cover had blown off in the wind as I was putting it back on I noticed how solid the top corner of the windscreen frame looked. That's because it's rust coloured filler. Can't remember if I showed what is hiding under the skin of fiberglass on the bulkhead, can you guess? More rust.
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Jan 19, 2022 20:41:10 GMT
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Oof!!!
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Jan 19, 2022 22:34:28 GMT
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Oh Lordy…. Lordy…..
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Yesterday sat in Barry's kitchen, whilst enjoying a cup of Yorkshire's finest, I was bemoaning the cheap car cover that keeps blowing off the bond, and thanks to a job being put back and him being a top chap, he has a free afternoon and now the herald chassis is now striped and packed away. For the first time in 20 ish years, the bond is inside and drying out. today I got all the bespoke bond glass together, washed inspected and wrapped it all up in bubble wrap, The glass looks to be in good condition except, one of the door and a rear quarter-light glasses, had some grinder wizz embedded in the surface I got it out, but it's left a rusty mark. I suppose that's not too bad for 60-year-old car glass. Now I just need to find somewhere safer than the roof of the car to store it. Dan
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Last Edit: Feb 2, 2022 15:42:50 GMT by logicaluk
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,266
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You might be able to polish the rusty mark out, try metal polish (Brasso works) baking soda (mix with water to a thick paste) or even toothpaste, use a cloth with a circular motion, takes a while but does work, I've polished scratches out of watch glasses with Brasso
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Last Edit: Feb 2, 2022 17:20:01 GMT by jimi
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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Or try the new iron removing cleaners for paintwork that dissolve iron.
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Thanks chaps, Ill look in to the iron removing cleaner, altho I'm wondering if some bathroom Viakal acid cleaner might work as the steel has gone it's just the rusty mark left. Dan
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doshy
Part of things
Posts: 33
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Those “bleeding” wheel cleaners blackpop mentioned are surprisingly effective- I managed to get a load of those embedded grinder filings out of the paint of a new fiat a few weeks back. It pickles the steel a bit, loosening it enough that a decent clay bar will lift it out. Definitely worth a shot.
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brc76
RR Helper
Posts: 1,108
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I know I'm a month late to the T4 Grille, I think the facelifted ones have a separate upper and lower if that helps.
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