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Sept 30, 2021 5:59:23 GMT
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Morning all. Bit strange this one, rover V8, runs badly when warm, cuts out, poor restarting, breathes heavily, but compression is ~175 across the board. Three carb setups, three coils, 3 sets ignition leads, 2 sets plugs, 3 caps & arms, not blue ones, still can't get to the bottom of it Sometimes when cranking it'll sounds like it's misfiring, cranking slows, but then picks up again. Throws over with no plugs fine Now getting difficult to start from cold too. When it's warm, it misfires and cuts out Any ideas? TIA
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,946
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Rover V8 3.9 poor runnermk2cossie
@mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member 77
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Sept 30, 2021 6:12:33 GMT
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Earth lead breaking down? Or a main power lead not good enough would be my next things to check
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v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,755
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Sept 30, 2021 7:00:58 GMT
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What dissy are you using? 35DLM ? , they fail due to antique electronics, and another problem with RV8 distributors it the rotor arm, the majority made or available today are for the P5 engine which was a points engine, and are the wrong height for the later distributors, too low, I got so frustrated with this problem I converted my front cover to be distributorless but ran the oil pump, and went to coil packs.
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Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style. Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,872
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Sept 30, 2021 7:12:23 GMT
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Misfiring while trying to start, causing the cranking to slow before it picks back up, could that be a timing related issue? Too much advance kicking against the piston still on the upstroke?
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Sept 30, 2021 12:47:45 GMT
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Running problems which increase as the car warms up are usually wiring related. The higher temperature creates resistance in the circuits.
The fact that it happens sporadically when cold as well can be further deterioration of the connection that's causing this problem.
Easiest check to start with is to bridge a metal part of the engine to the negative terminal on the battery with a jump lead. If you notice an immediate improvement in your running you probably have a bad ground strap or poor connection to it.
If that doesn't provide any insight then go ahead and start checking terminals, especially to sensors and ignition system after the battery and alternator cables.
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Sept 30, 2021 18:08:54 GMT
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Random one, what state is the cam in?
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Thanks for replies all, I've persuaded ( well told him, its still my car) MK1 son to pull the engine and box, and fit a 200tdi instead. We'll then be able to strip said V8 and inspect at our leisure. Still not sure why it breathes so heavily but has good compression tho
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Random one, what state is the cam in? Good question I reckon. All kinds of strange happenings from valves barely opening and cylinder pressures being generated and released in unplanned ways. We await the pathology from the exploratory surgery…. Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Putting 2+2 together, (and maybe making 5) we're thinking it may be the oil control rings, it's used max to min on the dipstick in about 150 miles, and unusually for a rrc it hasn't ended up on the floor Parts collecting for the TDI conversion, and then we will investigate Thanks again all
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That sounds pretty heavy, my high mileage 3.5 rrc doesen't drop that far between services. It could just be carbon build up in which case one of the magic potions may actually work (of course the carbon may be all that's holding it together as well!)
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