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Sept 14, 2021 19:23:07 GMT
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is 2k high build primer porous? I'm using the hp body stuff, 534.
also, with ti being 2k is it ok to fill over it?
also!! so I'm going back to bare metal on my mini again, so ive started the filler work, then gone with the high build, what should i put over that then when ive flatted that down?
thanks
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pptom
Part of things
Posts: 469
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Sept 15, 2021 6:32:19 GMT
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I am far from an expert, but since no one else has chimed in: As far as I understand 2k high build is porous, it will absorb moisture. Yes, you can fill over it as long as it's keyed. I would spray 2k high build primer over the flattened filler and use a guide coat to make sure it's actually flat. You ideally want to be spraying the top coat over a surface that's all the same colour and texture.
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smart
Part of things
Posts: 134
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Sept 15, 2021 9:09:53 GMT
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2k High build primer is porous
You can 'fill' over it but obviously ideally you want the majority of your filler work to be done prior to this. The technical data sheet for your paint will tell you what products you need for undercoating (and over coating) most 2k primers wont adhere straight to bare metal and will require an etch/epoxy primer first.
With your last question are you thinking 'what should i put over that' as in while the car is waiting for the rest of any work to be finished? If youre storing in a dry workshop it will be fine, if its getting wet then you'll need to over coat with a non porous product
Hope this helps?! Theres a million and one different answers and opinions when it comes to paint but the safest bet is always to find the manufacturers technical data sheet online and follow that
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1998 Rover 400 Derv
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Sept 15, 2021 12:03:42 GMT
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I would have advised Epoxy primer first (which is 'almost' waterproof). Then filler, then epoxy to seal the fller. Then Green Ti as its a primer filler to fill the last imperfections. Then topcoat.
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Sept 15, 2021 19:29:48 GMT
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oh ok, i thought the 2k high build would have been water proof!
what do i do then, the car is in high build in places, I'm going to have to strip the paint off of it all again, and re do it all. ive used high build out of a can, and the paint it just pealing off.
the garage is dry, and it does kinda blow threw it some with the doors not being the best.
if i keep on with the high build for now?
i don't know how long the process will take, but ive done the roof, and rear , going to fit 2 new quarters to it again!! and then get it all filled again. ive a lot quicker process as ive learned to fill fairly well i think now.
thanks for the advice!
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Sept 15, 2021 20:04:14 GMT
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Is the Green Ti peeling off? Out of a can - aerosol?
You can roller on epoxy, but its better sprayed on. You can leave any Ti on the car if its soundly bonded on, but I'd use epoxy on everything from now on and cover the Ti with epoxy to seal it.
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Sept 15, 2021 20:22:44 GMT
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oh so what i mean is , ive been doing the body for ages, ive had it in 2k epoxy at first, then filled it, then primed it again. then flatted it again all over a long time. but where i may have gone threw , i used can high build, and on the front that was in lots of places.
where i have used the can high build the 2k paint i have put over has just pealed off.
so now, ive refilled the roof on bare steal, one side i thought i was using 2k high build but it was epoxy 2k, and the other side ive used 2l high build. on the back ive filled that and just gone over with high build.
the products ive used are hp body 534 high build and hp body 989 epoxy.
also the epoxy when i ve used it ive thinned it with 2k thinners 10%, and it still comes out really orange peal.
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Sept 15, 2021 22:33:23 GMT
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I'm not familiar with those brands - I always use Lechler epoxy which has to have dedicated hardener & thinners. What size spraygun tip are you using?
You may need to thin it to around 15% but check the paint spec sheet to see what thinners are correct for it.
If paint is peeling off, then it need to be removed completely and done again in better quality materials.
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Sept 15, 2021 22:36:08 GMT
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I just looked up that epoxy, it requires the 775 epoxy thinners and at 25% with a 1.5 or 1.8 tip.
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smart
Part of things
Posts: 134
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Sept 16, 2021 12:43:10 GMT
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Agree with everything Blackpop has said.
Normally the side of the paint can or the TDS(With the aid of google) will tell you everything you need to know, if you follow that you cant go wrong. Undercoats, over coats, prep materials, gun setup etc..... its all there. The moment you deviate from that you need to have the experience to know what youre doing isnt going to go horribly wrong!
Fair play for doing it yourself but it can all end in tears if youre not careful
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1998 Rover 400 Derv
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Sept 16, 2021 14:22:53 GMT
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Primer is always porous. Only Epoxy Primers and Top Coat paint aren't. Hence, never wet flat anything that isn't either finished in epoxy or a 2k gloss "test" coat.
I assume you mean HB Body, which is a reasonable brand.
I hope you are not applying filler to bare steel though....!
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Specialist Bodyshop & Fabrication Classic, Retro, Prestige & Custom Small Repairs to Concours Restorations Mechanical Work Vintage to Modern
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Sept 17, 2021 6:19:46 GMT
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I need to get the right thiners then, thanks
Why not fill over bare metal?
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Sept 17, 2021 8:05:27 GMT
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Why not fill over bare metal? I believe a lot of filler is porous, so if there's a way for it to get wet, the moisture can sit under it.
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Last Edit: Sept 17, 2021 8:05:38 GMT by droopsnoot
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Sept 17, 2021 9:06:32 GMT
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I checked the data sheet for the filler it's upol easy sand and it says to metal with a good key , but I see what you are saying . I always nix it with fiberglass resin in it to thin it down a bit so I wonder if that makes it a little more water resistant too
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jgtr
Part of things
Posts: 270
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Sept 20, 2021 6:33:33 GMT
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Epoxy the whole car, it will seal what you have already done, waterproof it and give you a good base to work from
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