smart
Part of things
Posts: 134
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Sept 5, 2021 21:58:27 GMT
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Hi all, I’m looking to preserve the sills, subframes and underbody of our Rover 75. Anyone that knows these cars will be aware of what can lurk underneath! Luckily ours is a bit of a minter that seems to have lived a pampered life and not seen any winter road salt. So far I have cleaned with water + brake fluid, wire brushed and painted anything even thinking of rusting with Hydrate 80 Stage 2 is to remove all the plastic wheel arch liners and repeat the prep plus hydrate 80 steps. I want to keep the arches the original body colour so will allow this 24hrs to dry before using Electrox primer, base coat + lacquer. Give that another 24hrs and then a coat of Dynax UC will finish the outer wheel arches. For the underbody and subframes that have already been treated with Hydrate 80 I’m thinking, key everything with red scotch, degrease and then Electrox primer followed by Raptor (brushed on) www.eurocarparts.com/p/u-pol-raptor-tough-protective-coating-1ltr-tintable-kit-UPL.RLT_S1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0Ki4mejo8gIVB-7tCh0bXARNEAQYBCABEgLEyPD_BwEObviously I’ll follow all Technical data sheets for drying times etc and finish with coat of Dynax UC. I’m thinking Raptor because it’s pretty good value, 2k and waterproof. Since it’s being painted over a properly treated and primed area then being waxed over I think it will do the job? The car is garaged, does like 3000 miles a year and isn’t used in winter Any thoughts on the Raptor as my finishing coat for the underbody and subframes? Any better/cheaper products out there you’d recommend considering the other products I’m using underneath and on top of it? It basically just gives me a waterproof + black finish that I can brush on and still look reasonably professional
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1998 Rover 400 Derv
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jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 681
Club RR Member Number: 121
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Raptor paint for underbody?jmsheahan
@jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member 121
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You'll get a raft of different opinions on this but in my experience with Raptor it's a very good product. Here's my 10p worth if it's helpful? You're on the right lines with your method but may I suggest adding an Epoxy primer in to the mix? It'll give a decent layer of protection and help the Raptor really stick. Thorough clean and scotch > Electrox or etch primer (really does need to be bare metal for electrox to do it's thing) > Epoxy primer > Raptor (which can be applied 'wet on wet' if you use the Upol Epoxy primer) > Dynax UC In terms of application, Raptor sprays better than brushed however I have used it with a roller with reasonable results. I know you mentioned brushing but do you have access to a small compressor? If so I'd really recommend using a cheap gravity fed gun or a shultz style gun. Experimenting with air pressures will get you different finish results. You can thin it slightly for smoothness but it will always have a slightly textured finish if it's of any concern. Make sure you have a decent mask in a well ventilated area though as it does contain Isocyanites and I can confirm it's pretty potent stuff! Sprayed with a shultz gun: Rollered:
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Last Edit: Sept 6, 2021 7:58:58 GMT by jmsheahan
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smart
Part of things
Posts: 134
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You'll get a raft of different opinions on this but in my experience with Raptor it's a very good product. Here's my 10p worth if it's helpful? You're on the right lines with your method but may I suggest adding an Epoxy primer in to the mix? It'll give a decent layer of protection and help the Raptor really stick. Thorough clean and scotch > Electrox or etch primer (really does need to be bare metal for electrox to do it's thing) > Epoxy primer > Raptor (which can be applied 'wet on wet' if you use the Upol Epoxy primer) > Dynax UC In terms of application, Raptor sprays better than brushed however I have used it with a roller with reasonable results. I know you mentioned brushing but do you have access to a small compressor? If so I'd really recommend using a cheap gravity fed gun or a shultz style gun. Experimenting with air pressures will get you different finish results. You can thin it slightly for smoothness but it will always have a slightly textured finish if it's of any concern. Make sure you have a decent mask in a well ventilated area though as it does contain Isocyanites and I can confirm it's pretty potent stuff! Cheers buddy, forgot to mention that i was a paint sprayer for Merc for 12 years so i know about the nasty stuff in paint Epoxy is a good shout too. Just really wanted to confirm to myself that raptor was a good way to go! At Mercedes we repaired thoudsands of rusty cars and the underbody method was shotblast, Spies hecker epoxy,3M stonechip and colour + clearcoat but this would only last a year or two before it had to be done again. (Think alot of it was due to the terrible steel Merc was using at the time though)
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1998 Rover 400 Derv
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Sept 6, 2021 10:27:49 GMT
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I'll second raptor, I tinted mine white to match the exterior of my mk1 Cortina.
I used a brush in the tight spots as I had to do mine on my back with the car above me so space in certain areas was difficult. The gun worked well but given how I was working you have to think a bit more about spraying distance and angle which affected paint pickup when the bottle was running low (I'm not telling you how to suck eggs but this was the 1st time I had tried this before!)
Only mix up what you want as I made the mistake of leaving a bottle too long between coats and it had set solid - it was the next day so I should have expected it! If you use brushes/ rollers treat them as a write off for this purpose as they'll be harder than a hard thing!
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1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
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jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 681
Club RR Member Number: 121
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Raptor paint for underbody?jmsheahan
@jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member 121
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Sept 6, 2021 15:05:51 GMT
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Happy days pleased to hear that! Thought I'd just mention it as I was high as a MF after an eve spraying it . I'm a little guilty of skipping some H&S but it's crazy how many people on Youtube etc spray it with no mask or protection whatsoever.
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Last Edit: Sept 6, 2021 15:06:06 GMT by jmsheahan
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Raptor paint for underbody?Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Sept 7, 2021 21:32:28 GMT
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It’s a pretty good product. I’ve used it many times and not had any issues with it. You should be epoxying under it though as mentioned, the TDS actually tells you todo this but how many people actually read that, and then follow it?
And As every one else says, spray it with a Schultz gun. Way better finish (and coverage) than brushing it.
If you check out my truck thread you’ll see mine got epoxyed onto freshly sandblasted steel, then raptor over that. That’s pretty much the ultimate in adhesion terms. I think mine was cobra brand but it’s all more or less the same thing.
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Last Edit: Sept 7, 2021 21:34:17 GMT by Dez
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smart
Part of things
Posts: 134
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Sept 15, 2021 9:18:14 GMT
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Bought the one litre kit (750 paint/250 hardener) and mixed up small batches before brushing it on. It works great with a brush and gives you 30 mins or so before the batch youve mixed starts going off.
I'm usually pessimistic with these kind of miracle products with big advertising campaigns but compared to most other products on the market i could have used it really is superior for the chassis work i needed.
Ill try and put some pics up later, luckily the common areas where 75's go were really clean so hopefully the Bilt hamber products along with the raptor will keep her on the road for a long time yet!
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1998 Rover 400 Derv
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Sept 16, 2021 21:44:06 GMT
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brilliant stuff don't buy the 2k aerosols though they don't give the best finish get the shultz gun kit or even roller it on for a even finish when fully set is very protective wouldnt use anything else
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1978 mk2 escort mexico
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I've done same as mentioned above with Bilt Hmaber Electrox - Bilt Hamber Epoxy Primer - Then i used Gravitex instead of Raptor - then finished with Bilt Hamber Dynax
Oh and for seam sealing I used a combination of Tiger Seal and Bilt Hambers brushable.
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