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Hello,
I wonder if anyone could help and write me up a little guide of how to change the drive shaft flange seal on a MK2 Fiesta including the tools I will need and the fluids/parts required.
Thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to help, have already had some great advice diagnosing this on here.
Will add a photo below of offending area.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Erm from memory you would drain gearbox oil, disconnect the hub from the track control arm, pop the drive shaft out the gearbox with a pry bar/tyre lever type thing. Pull it out the way. Hook the old seal out, again with a pry bay type thing/old screwdriver. Clean up and knock the new seal in with some kind of sutible drift. (Large socket??) Carefully pop the shaft back in, reassemble the rest, fill the gearbox oil to level plug.
Think that's about it! You might find spring compressors are needed to take tension off the strut end. Been a while since I worked on a fiesta!
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I'll have ago anyone else feel free to correct me, it's been a while since I worked on one of these.
1. Jack it up so both front wheels are off the ground and hanging at full suspension droop. 2. Securely support on axle stands. 3. Locate and make sure you can undo the gearbox oil filler plug. 4. Remove wheel 5. you need to disconnect the suspension to allow the shaft to pull out, the easiest way on one of these without damaging something is probably to undo the 2 bolts holding the lower ball joint to the suspension control arm. 6. place a drain tray under the gearbox, when the shaft comes out all the foul smelling oil will follow. 7. Lever the shaft out of the gearbox, it should just pop out usually I use a crow bar behind the joint levered against a solid part of the diff housing. 8. Once the oil has drained out lever the seal out 9. Tap a new seal in. 10. lube seal with oil and push the shaft in (should go in easier than it came out make sure it is snapped in) 11. Re-assemble the lower ball joint, use new lock nuts or loctite. 12. re-fill gearbox. 13. re-fit wheel and lower vehicle.
The only part which can be a challenge is getting the joint out, but you really have no option but to get stuck in and see how it goes.
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Thank you both - could either of you send me a link to the oil that I will need and roughly how much.
Is there a drain plug that I can use rather than letting it pour out where the driveshaft sits in?
Where would I be looking to locate the refill plug?
Both your descriptions make this sound like an okay job for the driveway so could be fun giving this one a go.
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Aug 31, 2021 11:24:39 GMT
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Honestly best thing to do is buy a proper old skool Haynes manual. It will have all that info and they are ten a penny for cars that age.
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Aug 31, 2021 12:03:58 GMT
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Just ordered 👍🏻
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Aug 31, 2021 12:23:20 GMT
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As kevins said, the tricky part is getting the shaft out of the gearbox. Your Haynes manual will say something along the lines of 'remove drive shaft from gearbox' In my case this became 'beat repeatedly whilst trying not to crack gearbox casing with large pry par and largest persuader, whilst swearing repeatedly and occasionally hitting parts of anatomy causing leaks from mechanic!' Once that bits out of the way it's not a difficult job _ honest! Gearbox oil should be ep80/90, and from memory the filler is on the front of the box on the left-hand side, from the drivers seat. Top tip - make sure the filler plug will come undone BEFORE you drain the gearbox oil, ask me how I know that one 🙁
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Aug 31, 2021 14:34:25 GMT
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Cheers comfortablynumbDo you know if there is a drainage plug at all? I will make my first job checking if I can remove to filler plug before going any further
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Aug 31, 2021 15:25:35 GMT
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Not familiar with Fiesta, but we took the engine and box out of a Corsa yesterday. The long shaft tugged out fairly easily, but the short (passenger side) shaft wouldn’t come out, we tried tugging, prying etc, but it was going to damage something. In the end I tugged it whilst someone tapped the joint with a hammer a few times and it popped out. There is normally a circlip that holds it in, and you need to overcome that for it to pull out (so at the very least it needs a good yank) Also, at the worst you can often fill through the reverse light switch hole. HTH, good luck
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Aug 31, 2021 16:03:13 GMT
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Hi, As an aside is the speedo working OK? If yes, then carry on as above. If not, then check the speedo cable is alright. If still not, then... that leaking oil seal is going to escalate. Sorry for being a possible harbinger of doom.
Colin
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Aug 31, 2021 16:08:51 GMT
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Cheers comfortablynumbDo you know if there is a drainage plug at all? I will make my first job checking if I can remove to filler plug before going any further MK2, so guessing it's a 5speed? Not 100% sure, my experience is mainly 4 speed, I'll see if I can find out from a mate Otherwise someone who knows better than me will be along soon.
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Aug 31, 2021 18:42:08 GMT
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Mine has a 4 speed box in it. I did read somewhere that it possibly doesn’t have a drainage plug and is a sealed unit?
Speedo did falter about a year ago for a week, I cleaned everything up and never had an issue since so I don’t think there is any real problem there.
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Aug 31, 2021 18:56:14 GMT
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according to a post on an old xr2 thread I think they refer to the yellow one being used for drainage and the blue as a filler?
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Aug 31, 2021 20:00:09 GMT
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Will be parking this thread for now.
After further investigation I now think that this leak is actually coming from the master cylinder/brake servo which is located right above the drive shaft directly where the fluid is collecting under the car.
It’s also in a sorry state underneath.
No idea where to start with this either so should be fun.
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Start with a good bay/ underside clean and see what develops? Keep an eye on brake fluid levels, no brakes is no fun
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comfortablynumb this was my thinking exactly, the servo is absolutely knackered underneath. The whole underside is covered in rotting material where the fluid must have been leaking. I don't really know what I am looking at but after searching through old threads it sounds like there could be an issue with the master cyclinder which is then leaking onto the servo... Like I say though I don't really know what I am looking at currently but no brakes is not an option.
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