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Jul 29, 2021 17:36:09 GMT
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I’ve spoken to my brother and this is what he said. Some HAs came with discs as standard. You can fit the hubs/discs from a HB but there are 2 sizes of disc- 12”and 13” wheel variants. He thinks HC disc set up fits also.
To fit Chevette set up you have to fit a Chevette bottom ball joint into the HA bottom arm. A bit of relieving of the hole is required to let it fit. You need to make an adapter from the Chevette metric TRE to fit the imperial drumstick on the HA rack. You end up with a bit of positive camber but you can get this back by shimming out the top of control arm in towards the centre of the car. If you are fitting discs you need to add a remote servo as the pedal will be like a brick.
Hope this helps
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Polybush in Wrexham, have bushes for most applications, if you have the dimensions they will mix and match, or manufacture a one off, they have an extensive range of off the shelf sizes or packaged to suit a particular vehicle. www.polybush.co.uk/Great, I'll defiantly look into that. Thanks a lot
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Few bits sorted, As Jonsey recommended, I drained the tank again, filled with white vinegar and left for a few days frequently turning it to different angles. Before I drained it out to see the results I put a handful of M20 nuts in and shook them around and left it another 30 minutes. As you can see in the bucket, very successful with a LOT of rust at the bottom and the inside of the tank being almost all silver bare metal. Ideal! Alas finished off the bit of welding I was doing, weld through primed, welded, ground down, seam sealed and painted. I only have green metal paint to hand but will go over with some black when I have some. Happy with the results. Can't wait to get it out now hopefully the engine will run nicely since the tank has been properly cleaned! Also found an old 70s roof rack left at the bottom of my neighbours driveway in a pile of scrap, should suit the van nicely Cheers, Matt
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good result with the vinegar, i use it all the time for de-rusting.
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@ CRX_IN_SCOTLAND
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Stiff
Posted a lot
'kin 'ell
Posts: 3,021
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Nice! Always had a soft spot for these ever since Baldachino's 'Short Cut' van from back in the day.
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lord13
Part of things
Posts: 537
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fantastic little vans these, I've had a couple of HA's in the past and i do have a soft spot for all things viva. Theres a facebook group that deal with the OHV engine, both types ( opel and vauxhall) and will be able to give you tons of advice on tuning etc. OHV small block vivaI used to use one as my works van in the early 2000's until my business sank without a trace ( literally, we got flooded and the insurance did't cover an 'act of god') not that it was going great to start with but i liked to potter about...anyway, i dug out a pic of my van for you...
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Last Edit: Aug 8, 2021 13:30:48 GMT by lord13
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fantastic little vans these, I've had a couple of HA's in the past and i do have a soft spot for all things viva. Theres a facebook group that deal with the OHV engine, both types ( opel and vauxhall) and will be able to give you tons of advice on tuning etc. OHV small block vivaI used to use one as my works van in the early 2000's until my business sank without a trace ( literally, we got flooded and the insurance did't cover an 'act of god') not that it was going great to start with but i liked to potter about...anyway, i dug out a pic of my van for you... Yes I'm on that facebook page, I'm sure it'll come in handy one day!! Thank you for the photo of your van, good to hear it was still in use as a work vehicle until the early 2000s, and looks in really good condition too!! As for my van, still having problems with it cutting out, I noted the mechanical fuel pump had stopper pumping so well, so just bought a cheap ebay 12v fuel pump and fitted a fuel filter both before pump and another before the carb. Engine still didn't run, took the top of the carb off to make sure there was fuel in the float bowl, and there was a massive lump of rust lodged where the fuel comes in blocking it up. Removed the rust and the 12v pump was working a treat, the engine ran perfectly. For about 2 minutes! Went to pull the van out of the workshop and it cut out again, checked the pump which had stopped pumping and was hot to touch. I messaged the seller on ebay who was quick to send out a new pump which I'm yet to fit. Bit of a nightmare as I really want to take the van out for a proper drive and use it as a van! Whilst waiting I decided to make up a new numberplate and mount it centrally. Not sure which I'll use yet as I do really like the style and patina of the original numberplate. Anyway, it wasn't central as the photo below which I wanted to sort out. I bought the plastic digits from ebay, £8 posted I think and some sheet steel with the edges slightly bent over to strengthen it up. Really happy with the result and probably took an hour to make, not perfect but should suit the van well! Before; After; I also took the rear bumper off to check the damage in full, I do have a spare rear bumper fortunately which came with the van, but hoping I could potentially straighten this bumper, what do you guys think as I have no clue. Cheers, Matt
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retrolegends
Club Retro Rides Member
Winging it.....Since 1971.
Posts: 3,726
Club RR Member Number: 94
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1970 Bedford HA Turboretrolegends
@retrolegends
Club Retro Rides Member 94
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Aug 18, 2021 19:59:46 GMT
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Number plate looks loads better like that, I reckon you could straighten that bumper fairly well, a bit of a kink here and there would suit the old gal. 😎
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1974 Hillman Avenger 1500DL1992 Volvo 240SE1975 Datsun Cherry 100a flying custard1965 Hillman SuperMinx Rock N Roller1974 Austin Allegrat Mk1 1.3SDL1980 Austin Allegro Mk3 1.3L1982 Austin Allegro Mk3 on banded steels2003 Saab 9-3 Convertible 220bhp TurboNutter1966 Morris Minor 1000 (Doris) 2019 Abarth 595C Turismo (not retro but awesome fun) www.facebook.com/DatsunCherry100a
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Sept 21, 2021 20:00:10 GMT
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Update time, To be honest, not much has happened since last time. I have tried to get the van running properly about a million times, which is does perfectly until I get on the road, which it stops running every time! I haven't got further than 5 minutes away yet without breaking down. Feeling all these issues are caused by the rust in the fuel tank, I fitted a boat tank which is plastic and thoroughly cleaned it out. Fitted in the back with fresh fuel, and yet again I ended up getting towed home Anyway, I decided the van was cursed. Doesn't seem to want to be driven, especially with it getting crashed into a wall when it was initially offloaded I'll add photos below, I think I've been towed back 5 times and no matter what I do the engine doesn't want to run. So I sourced what I felt is a suitable donor for the van, for the engine and gearbox With some help from various people, including people on this forum. I have started the process of moving the gearstick on the Mazda gearbox forwards. I worked out that the gearstick in its original position will come up at the base of the handbrake of the van. The Mk1 MX5 gearstick can fairly easily be modified forward either 4 or 6 inches so as soon as I can compare the position of the original gearstick compared to the MX5 I will finish this off. My aim is to get the engine and box in with as little cutting as possible, so this will help, ensuring the handbrake shouldn't need moving. I also had a quick go at banging out the dent from the rear corner, needs more work but at least the door shuts much better now. And whilst I'm here, some photos of other HA vans I've spotted at events since the last update, including Micks Van! Now we're going into winter things should start progressing on the van as I really want it on the road for next summer,
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Sept 21, 2021 21:07:16 GMT
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If it's any use I covered in quite a bit of detail shortening the gear shifter on page 26 of my thread.
Mx5 engine will go great in the HA.
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Sept 22, 2021 5:02:15 GMT
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If it's any use I covered in quite a bit of detail shortening the gear shifter on page 26 of my thread. Mx5 engine will go great in the HA. Thanks mate, I'll have a read Hopefully the MX5 engine will go in nicely, the sump looks a very similar shape to the original 1256 sump so I'm hoping that won't cause any issues. I met a guy at RetroRides Gathering 2021 in a HA Saloon that had a Zetec but not heard of an MX5 powered HA yet, unless I just haven't seen it. Cheers
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1970 Bedford HA Turbojohnthesparky
@johnthesparky
Club Retro Rides Member 6
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Sept 22, 2021 7:23:04 GMT
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Excellent, engine won’t run so put it in the bin and fit a better (bigger, more powerful) one Shall watch with interest
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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1970 Bedford HA Turboslater
@slater
Club Retro Rides Member 78
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Sept 22, 2021 10:42:05 GMT
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Good to see another one getting some love. I think you probably outbid me on Ebay for this? Not to worry tho as I got another one a month or so later which was probably a slightly better deal!
Coincidently I'm going for a Mazda gearbox too but mines a bit chunkier and has an extra gear! Also going for a diesel as I want to use it as a daily.
As mentioned pop browns seems to be the place to go for the front end parts.
Are those metro steels? They suit it!
Also is it s 110 or 130? I'm trying to work out what the actual differences were!?
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Sept 24, 2021 16:18:03 GMT
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ive just realised from your photos you are in the "maidstone area" (deliberately ambiguous for security reasons)
despite visiting some of those exact locations, fairly frequently, and a penchant for vauxhalls, ive never seen an retro activity there (apart from the alfas)
how odd
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Last Edit: Sept 24, 2021 16:18:32 GMT by darrenh
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Sept 27, 2021 16:45:18 GMT
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Few more bits done, although a little bit more exciting this time. I swapped my 1.6 UK mx5 engine for my mates already turbo'd 1.6 import engine (money his way obviously) so that saves the job of turboing my engine. Its missing the turbo itself and the ECU but they're things I can collect as time goes on, it has genuine yellow RX8 injectors, uprated clutch costing north of £400 and turbo manifold and downpipe, all of which has seen next to no road miles so will be perfect for my little van. Dropped in the engine bay; seriously tight in there!! New Engine; The Cam Angle Sensor on a mk1 engine is around the back of the head, I have seen it done, by someone on here who's fitted a mk1 mx5 engine to a Mk2 escort who's converted it to use a Mk2 MX5 CAS which is around the front of the Cam Cover which probably saves a good inch or two which I will defiantly benefit from. I'm going to avoid cutting the shell up as much as possible, so this is my only option to save me cutting a huge amount of my bulkhead out! And more photos of the progress on moving the gearstick forwards, I have attached a photo which (very poorly) shows, even with the gearstick moved forwards, how much it still needs to match the original gearbox. Although, when this photo was taken it was only moved 4 inches forwards, its now 6 inches forwards which brings it even closer to the original gearstick hole. And here, the process of moving it a further 2 inches forwards. Being tapped to M8 Shortening the shifter rod surround thingy, to be welded, held together by an M16 bolt which fits perfectly and will help keep it centre during welding. Finally, removed the entire front crossmember, as it was easier that way for me to decide on engine mounts. I was going to modify the original Vauxhall mounts to suit the MX5 mounts but taking it all out has shown me that isnt possible, one side of the engine wouldn't be an issue, but the other both the oil filter and the steering column are right in the way of where the engine mount wants to be... So I am considering chassis mounting the engine using a Mk1/Mk2 escort kit, I'll attach a photo of what I mean, my only concern is I want this to be a car (van) I can use on the road, I don't want crazy engine vibrations coming through the car from where it's too firmly mounted. I was hoping prehaps someone could comment on this kit, the same bushes are used on escort World cup Crossmembers, as to how harsh they are and if they are suitable for a roadgoing car before I commit to anything. Thanks in advance
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Sept 27, 2021 17:18:29 GMT
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Good progress, what's stopping you bringing the engine further forward, if it's the crossmember it looks like you could cut some out the back and add it on the front under the steering rack.
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Sept 27, 2021 21:17:53 GMT
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I’m sure RetroPower produce softer mounts for the Escort World Cup crossmember which may be the same size bushes as the chassis mounting kit. Think they had them made for the Gordon Murray mk1 Escort. My brothers old Mk2 used a chassis mounting kit to fit an XE and it vibrated so much it made me feel sick after just a short ride as a passenger.
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Sept 28, 2021 6:33:13 GMT
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I’m sure RetroPower produce softer mounts for the Escort World Cup crossmember which may be the same size bushes as the chassis mounting kit. Think they had them made for the Gordon Murray mk1 Escort. My brothers old Mk2 used a chassis mounting kit to fit an XE and it vibrated so much it made me feel sick after just a short ride as a passenger. Great, just what I wanted to hear before I regret fitting them! I checked on retropower, not only are they £60 but they're out of stock Would have been a good way around the issue though! Looks like I'll have to come up with a way of fitting the standard Land Rover/ kit car mounts. Maybe similar to the chassis mount kit, but with the round rubber engine mounts upright on the chassis rails? It all depends on space really. Thank you
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