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Jul 18, 2021 20:31:30 GMT
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Went out in the minor for it's first test drive on the new engine and it ended in disaster, the distributor and it's drive came out, damaging teeth on the cam and the block around the distributor, it still has good compression and turns over fine. So once I have removed the sump and confirmed it's only the distributor drive which has had it our thought is to go moderm with a distributor less system.
I have used megajolt before which worked well but is a bit old fasioned in the wzy it uses edis, are there any other systems out there?, nothing fancy just a reliable basic map sensing system.
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We bought a nodiz for a zetec in a sierra, it ran ok but I have to say that the aftersales service was non-existent! Also they changed wire colour between the loom and the wiring diagram and seemed to expect us to understand it anyway! TL:DR - nodiz if you can work alone 🙄
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Sorry to hear this - quite an unusual thing to happen. Was the dizzy clamp loose to cause it?
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,188
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Distributor less ignitionChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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I was going to say that, if the dizzy drive was OK, I'd have said to have gone with the 123 Bluetooth dizzy. It's a decent bit of kit, and in all honesty, not much more than the Nodiz setup, and with alot of experience around it. Furthermore, it's simple to fit with decent quality parts, with the dizzies seeming to use Bosch components on the cap etc. and not items via the lowest bidder.
I was also going to recommend Nodiz, but it seems this is being questioned around the aftersales service. I'm surprised to hear about the aftersales mind you, as the MX-5 guys use alot of Motorsport Electronics gear.
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Yeah must admit we were a bit surprised ChasR, it struck me as ‘well we’ve got your money so can**** off!’ Which isn’t exactly what you want to hear Should say it did work fine once we’d ironed out a couple of issues
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Jul 19, 2021 12:24:40 GMT
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Yes it's a strange one, the distributor came out with enough force to knock the vacuum cannister off, it was tightened up enough that you couldn't turn it, From what I can see with a endescope apart from some scratches on the balance weights the crank, rods pistons etc all seem fine, the cam gear has few marks on one edge but the centre where it should run looks perfect the hole in the block for the bottom of the drive also looks like it just needs some burrs around the edge cleaning up with a countersink, the bore for the dizzy has a few chips off around the botttom but nothing serious. so with a little cleaning up and cleaning the bits out of the sump (I'm assuming the drive gear is in there) it could probably go back together, but that still leaves the question why did it do it in the first place.
All the parts except the cam were as fitted before which would point to something with the skew gear on the cam jamming and spitting it all out. With that in mind and that we seem to have got away fairly lightly we don't really want to risk trying again so today he has splashed out £450 on a complete Megajolt kit, the advantage of these being the basic ignition is standard ford parts you can get anywhere and the aftermarket part just tunes the timing away from a base 10 degrees point. It will also mean we can tweak it as ethanol % increases etc or if he decides to supercharge it, might even be worth taking it to a rolling road when he fits the twin carbs. For a start though we will set it up to the standard curve with a small increase in advance at light throttle.
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Last Edit: Jul 19, 2021 12:26:25 GMT by kevins
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Jul 19, 2021 12:47:50 GMT
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Drain the oil and see if anything nasty falls out with it? Like you said, it does sound like something has got between the skew gears, maybe a tooth fractured?
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Jul 19, 2021 13:55:38 GMT
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The good thing is it's easy to get the sump off no crossmember or steering in the way, that will be a job for tomorrow evening to a clearer view of what the damage is.
A further look has found another issue, there is a small hole in the block on the exhaust side!
It's just below the bore where the base of the distributor drive is supposed to go and almost exactly the diameter of the shaft (around 10mm) It's well below the water and oil galleries so if there are no further cracks (can't see any) a nut and bolt plus sealer would fill it I'm guessing the web of the crank hit is when it had dropped out.
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Last Edit: Jul 19, 2021 13:59:03 GMT by kevins
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Jul 19, 2021 14:22:27 GMT
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A few years ago I collected the wreck of a camper van which was offered on here It only had three wheels ( a fact that we didn’t realise until we dragged it out of the bush it was sat in) It literally fell to bits as it was recovered and pulled onto the trailer After some effort i got the engine started, which hadn’t run for about 15 years Then we discovered that there was a hole in the block the size of a tennis ball! Thing is, it ran quite well😳
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Jul 19, 2021 14:45:49 GMT
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There are a couple of other ignition only alternatives to the NODIZ out there.
I ran a NODIZ for a few months but never had it running right and, as pointed out above, 'aftersales' was a disgrace. I had previously run an ME221 on an MX5 before which was reliable but a lot of advertised functionality was simply didn't work (A/C control, clutch pedal launch control etc). I didn't get anywhere with aftersales trying to sort that either.
I am now running a DTA S40i. While it was more money I think it was worth it. I have had no problems so cannot comment on aftersales support.
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Jul 19, 2021 16:25:26 GMT
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Possibly excessive crankcase pressure build-up forcing anything a bit loose out maybe?
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Jul 19, 2021 17:13:27 GMT
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I've been thinking of Speeduino, at first just for better control over the ignition and then maybe possibly adding fuel injection at some later point. There does seem to be quite a few on here using it, though probably not ignition-only.
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pptom
Part of things
Posts: 464
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Jul 19, 2021 19:16:58 GMT
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Another negative experience with Nodiz on the +2, just didn't work + the aforementioned aftersales, fortunately brought it through eBay so got my money back that route. Shame as on paper it's pretty good. I was so pessed off I stumped up for an Omex 600, which is way overkill for ignition only, but aftersales is night and day different, even when I added injection 2 years on, and the unit is amazing. Computer controlled idle speed, via continuously adjustable ign timing for example. They do an ign only unit, but again not the cheapest option on the market + you have to buy a loom on top. From what I've heard, I don't think there is much to separate any of the big players like Omex, emerald, dta etc and I think the cheapest option is still megajolt which relies on the 'community' for support via forums etc, probably a wealth of information and maps on A series engines too. I know nothing about speeduino
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Last Edit: Jul 19, 2021 19:18:24 GMT by pptom
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madmog
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,152
Club RR Member Number: 46
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Distributor less ignitionmadmog
@madmog
Club Retro Rides Member 46
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Jul 20, 2021 12:44:34 GMT
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One thing in favour of Megajolt, although old-fashioned using EDIS, the EDIS 4 module can still be found cheap on Ebay. So, if the Megajolt unit should fail, the EDIS will run without it in limp mode. If the EDIS should fail, you already bought a spare one which lives in the boot where the spare distributor used to live:). (A Morris Minor thing)
If the coil pack fails, well that would stop NODIZ and Megajolt but you can keep a spare of that too. Ie with a spare EDIS4 module and coilpack - £50 the pair if you keep your eyes peeled - you probably won't get stranded with an electrical issue.
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One thing in favour of Megajolt, although old-fashioned using EDIS, the EDIS 4 module can still be found cheap on Ebay. So, if the Megajolt unit should fail, the EDIS will run without it in limp mode. If the EDIS should fail, you already bought a spare one which lives in the boot where the spare distributor used to live:). (A Morris Minor thing) If the coil pack fails, well that would stop NODIZ and Megajolt but you can keep a spare of that too. Ie with a spare EDIS4 module and coilpack - £50 the pair if you keep your eyes peeled - you probably won't get stranded with an electrical issue. Yes this was one of our main reasons for going with megajolt, you should be able to always get it running with generic Ford parts which are easily available virtually anywhere in the world (the crank sensor is the most common bit to go in my experience), it's also fully sealed so should be far more reliable in the winter or if you ever have to wade through anything more than a shallow puddle.
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madmog
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,152
Club RR Member Number: 46
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Distributor less ignitionmadmog
@madmog
Club Retro Rides Member 46
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One thing in favour of Megajolt, although old-fashioned using EDIS, the EDIS 4 module can still be found cheap on Ebay. So, if the Megajolt unit should fail, the EDIS will run without it in limp mode. If the EDIS should fail, you already bought a spare one which lives in the boot where the spare distributor used to live:). (A Morris Minor thing) If the coil pack fails, well that would stop NODIZ and Megajolt but you can keep a spare of that too. Ie with a spare EDIS4 module and coilpack - £50 the pair if you keep your eyes peeled - you probably won't get stranded with an electrical issue. Yes this was one of our main reasons for going with megajolt, you should be able to always get it running with generic Ford parts which are easily available virtually anywhere in the world (the crank sensor is the most common bit to go in my experience), it's also fully sealed so should be far more reliable in the winter or if you ever have to wade through anything more than a shallow puddle. FWIW on my Minor I kept the Megajolt in the car rather than the engine bay.
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Jul 21, 2021 11:55:39 GMT
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I assume the edis can go in the engine compartment as it does on the Fords but yes the megajolt's don't look very waterproof so it will go somewhere under the dash. When I had one in my old series 2 Landrover I had it in a tupperware container on the dash, the minor doesn't leak quite like that did though so it would probably be overkill.
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Jul 29, 2021 11:51:36 GMT
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I've been thinking of Speeduino, at first just for better control over the ignition and then maybe possibly adding fuel injection at some later point. There does seem to be quite a few on here using it, though probably not ignition-only. Yeah, I'd say go with a speeduino, cheap, effective and pretty easy to setup, especially if you run it ignition only.
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