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Iv a 1978 Reliant Scimitar 3.0 Essex engine. I fitted a Powerspark electronic ignition high energy version and the Powerspark coil at tick over you can see a miss fire on the RPM gauge also translates into jerky running at low speeds 30 mph in top. Went through everything fitted new cap rotor arm plug leads and spark plugs , even fed the ignition system direct from the battery to rule out car wiring no change add an extra earth wire in the dizzy between the two plates. still misfired
Contacted Powerspark had a replacement ignition unit and coil but it is still the same No change
Re fitted the points and condenser no misfire. What the ….. am I missing ?
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Sticky valve? Try a compression test? Edit -should read properly, thought it said misfire still with points🙄
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xfu990
Part of things
Posts: 78
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Perhaps voltage related? Electronic ignition does like a decent supply. Unsure regarding engine an earth on these also with it being a Reliant? Have you tried it back on points? Just because items are new doesn't mean that you can eliminate them, I fitted some new NGK spark plugs recently only to find a defective one. Take the plugs out again, they tell a story.
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 1,983
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Jul 10, 2021 16:23:50 GMT
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Definitely check the engine block earthing as xfu990 already suggested.
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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Jul 11, 2021 20:51:37 GMT
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Iv a earth cable from the battery to the block and also run the coil from the battery to eliminate any of the wiring in the car
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Jul 11, 2021 22:14:59 GMT
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If it's any consolation, my 1275 Minor Traveller (with Accuspark) has also been misfiring the last couple of times I've taken it out, despite checking all the usual suspects.
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elfman
Part of things
Posts: 394
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Jul 11, 2021 22:15:22 GMT
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Check inside the distributor cap and the Rotor Arm, I often found they used to get a bit dirty and burnt and this used to give me a slight miss fire with electronic ignition. Quick clean and used to be back to normal But as you said you fitted the points and no miss fire so i would check all earths as recommended.
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Last Edit: Jul 11, 2021 22:19:52 GMT by elfman
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Yeah an electronic ignition system will find any shortfall in other components IME
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xfu990
Part of things
Posts: 78
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If you're happy with the earths and it runs fine with points that's eliminated them so what's the voltage like, is it low at idle? I'm thinking battery/alternator, healthy 13.8v ish? (and their earths of course)
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I would also check the wiring, make sure all the wires from the sensor in the distributor are shielded and separated from the ones going to the coil and the HT leads.
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Another check you could try is running the engine in the dark, and looking for stray arcing around the ignition components.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,712
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Is the original ignition system ballasted? If so, how is it ballasted?
Tbh I find aftermarket electronic ignitions rubbish. I’ve replaced loads of them for customers due to failures and similar issues to what you’re having. I get brought cars that run terribly and people will never lay the blame with the nice shiny new £50 ignition unit cos they don’t want to admit it was a waste of money.
I won’t run them in my own cars anymore, every single one I’ve ever had has failed prematurely. Bear in mind I do more miles in classic cars than most people do in a modern per year. I don’t have any issue with points systems, and I spend maybe a few minutes a year on maintaining them. The points and condensor in my daily driver (approx 15k a year) falcon are 3 years old and have been regapped twice, with no evidence of wear or closing up.
I find in the real world all the claims about contactless ignitions are bullhonky, and in simple cost terms you would have to get through about 10 sets of points and condensor before a electronic ignition pays for itself, which will NEVER happen.
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Last Edit: Jul 12, 2021 9:28:31 GMT by Dez
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 1,983
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Jul 12, 2021 10:31:35 GMT
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Like Dez , I've not had much luck with these systems (I've tried Pertronix and Aldon), although I know people who've been using them without any issue for years. For my Ford/ Saab V4s I have been using a VAG/ Volvo Bosch Hall system for years now, which is cheap as chips and has never given me any grief (I've converted about half a dozen V4 dizzies). Most points distributors can similarly be converted with tried and tested OEM Hall ignition from other cars I suppose.
I have to say cheap points and condensers are hopeless too in my experience. Especially no-name condensers are sh¡t and I won't be using them again since one ruined my holiday in the Alps once (gave my spare condenser away the week before we left, and forgot to pack another one...). All my cars have Bosch ignition, and I only use genuine Bosch components now.
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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Jul 14, 2021 15:14:08 GMT
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There has been an Lumenition system on my Elan for the 25 years I have had it and it was far from new then, it's never missed a beat. (you wouldn't want to go back to points on one of these you have to take the carb off to get to them)
I bought a modern system for the Landrover I had and it lasted less than a year, from my limited sample it seems to be the curse of modern poor quality parts again.
On the minor I opted to adapt a later A+ dizzy to fit, it's Lucas so I carry a spare amp (same as the rover V8's) but not needed it yet.
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Last Edit: Jul 14, 2021 15:54:33 GMT by kevins
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 1,983
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Jul 14, 2021 15:38:03 GMT
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Lumenition is quite a step up from cheap aftermarket Hall kits I suppose.
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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Jul 28, 2021 20:59:30 GMT
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I have had a similar problem with my Essex V4 I fitted a new coil and that improved but did not get rid of the problem as you I have changed to points and the problem gone well I have spoken with www.h-h-ignitionsolutions.co.uk/ and they have had the same problem before and have a solution for this problem and the problem is the electronic control is out of synchronization with the position of the rotor arm and they can re synchronize the electronic control with the rotor arm and cam lobes, so I have taken my spare dizzy fitted with my Petronix electronic control so they can synchronize it so I can fit it on the car and not worry.
H&H are the only company out of 6 different people pushing electronic controls that did'nt try to sell me a new unit and said the Petronix unit is out of sync so hopefully it will sort the problem try them give them a call and see what they say it's worth the cost of a phone call.
I will let you know how i get on when I get my spare dizzy back.
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The good thing about retaining good old points and condenser etc is that you stand at least half a chance of a repair if something packs up when you're out and about....
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