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1976 Davrian Mark 7a

16grit Part of things Posts: 215	1976 Davrian Mark 7a 16grit @16grit
	Jun 24, 2023 14:07:40 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Continuing with my cheeky-half-pint rapid-fire bite-sized updates.... As far as the starter motor mount sat, I was here: Here the starter was as originally supplied, with threaded mounts. I hadn't 'clocked' it around any of its muli-hole adjustment positions, as I don't think I knew where it was going to sit ref the large water rail arriving from the right hand side of the engine. The mount flange was threaded, and I had specced this to work with OE spec dowels. It was a really nice fit, but as it proved, was not really going to work in the layout if I wanted the starter motor to be detachable without taking apart the bellhousing etc. So, first job, remove original flange: To get here Sizing up new replacement flange with non-threaded mounts to work with an new system of fixed studs and threaded positioning spacers. Here it is on the block And after a little bit of faffing clocking the starter around to what seems to be a good 'starting position' Gratuitous second angle I wasted a good few minutes looking for the second 8mm stud that should have been in the revised adapter plate to mount the starter, and its corresponding sleeve spacer thingy, but no go. So I took a quick measurement and ordered up a replacement. This is just sleeved bar, M8 thread and as measured (again) below at 11mm OD which happens to be the size of the dowel its replacing. Well not quite just happens, this is the kind of stuff I like to ~~waste~~ spend time poring over to find an off the shelf option in the absence of a lathe, or buying a custom spacer: So with another bit of threaded rod on order I decided to turn my attention to prepping up the glovebox area in the passenger side dash. This bit of space is destined for great things, I'm planning to mount my ecu and its related fuses in here. This also happens to be where the car's major forward earthing point has been located, with a the negative cable simply being poked through a hole in the bulkhead here. Scrutineering back in the day doesn't seem to have minded the fact that a cable could just go through a hole in the bulkhead then? Who knows. My plan is to use a Chineesy bulkhead cable fitting, not strictly necessary as the shell it plastic of course, but in the case to make use of the already oversized hole in the bulkhead. First step, remove that FIA switch to earth section of negative battery cable, this bolt was heinously tight, perhaps a sign of how important it is to get a REALLY good earth connection here. It's actually fited to a crosspiece of 1" mild steel box that runs across the dash between the two forward legs of the rollcage that are bonded in beside the screen pillars Area freed up a little Next job was to think about making up a sectioon of new earth cable to run the short length from the bolt hole over to the the back of the glovebox where the bulkhead terminal is going to sit in an enlarged version of the hole that is visible in the photo above. In an attempt to save a little money I had opted for 40mm²battery cable. It wasn't until this had arrived until I realised that the larger size crimps are only available in 35mm² and 50mm² options... Anyways, not having anything remotely suitable for cutting cable of this diameter except my grinder, I used my grinder, taking care to go in at an angle of attack that would result in the end being a nice perpendicular cut (after a couple of failed attempts) Cable GENTLY nipped up in the vice Siliced Trimmed. In the absence of a bespoke de-insulatorizer, I wielded the Stanley v v carefully Crimped with ye-olde-hidrawlick crimper Except that after using the 50mm² dies in the yeoldechineezycrimper thingy with a 50mm crimp but 40mm cable, the inevitable happened and the crimp was nowhere near tight. So, I popped the 35mm dies in the crimper and huffed and puffed till the thing cried enough and voila! More to come in the coming days, in the meatime, thanks for taking another look...
	Last Edit: Jun 24, 2023 14:16:32 GMT by 16grit

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16grit Part of things Posts: 215	1976 Davrian Mark 7a 16grit @16grit
	Jul 2, 2023 18:01:49 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	OK, it looks like my focus is now wiring, and the bigger picture of what I'm currently trying to achieve is: Replace the old FIA masterswitch and the associated wiring that looked like it had been done in a hurry just to get an engine running Replace the old (dashboard) ignition switch wiring held together with hardware store coachbolts..that looked like it had been done in a hurry just to get an engine running Replace the melted centre / rear wiring loom section, that looked like it had been damaged when someone was in a hurry to get an engine running Add a high current fusebox / takeoff / tap after the new masterswitch to give me current to a new sall fusebox and relay board for a my DIY ecu install now I am in a hurry to my engine running..... Here's a pic of how the original switch looked, wired to the NEGATIVE side, with the earth lead just dissapearing through a rough hole cut in the scuttle into the 'glovebox' on the passenger side of the dash, where there's a tab welded to the rollcage Here is the new high current fusebox I'm going to use to tap into the battery cable run to the starter/alternator that sits all the way at the back of the car: This is going to be mounted in the glovebox, with the high current positive battery cable feed re-routed through the scuttle, up to this and then down and out through the centre 'tunnel' of the car and out to the rear engine subframe One fused supply will feed my relay board. Bearing in mind the bulkiness of the wiring going into the relays, the best place for this is going to be on a replacement version of the centre-console: Before I can get there, I need to install the first of the 'big-wire-thru-bulkhead-insulator-things-that-are-cheap-if-you-order-them-off-aliexpress...they look like this Obviously, with a fibreglass car these aren't really required (and I am in fact going to use just a thru-bolt elsewhere for the same job), but I had a largish hole in just the right place to fill so I thought why not? Why not, because my largish hole wasn't actually big enough, so out comes the (Polish?!) Dremel copy, which in Polish is called a szcszcszczscetszrbsz. Here it is, all ready to go So then I did a bit of this and this and some of this to get me to this Before adding a bit of this So that was the heavy duty Negative side of the switch to bulkhead fitting done, I then moved on to finish the same thing on the inside of the car in the glovebox All of these connections will eventually receive some cheapy insulating covers. The 40mm battery cable is 12mm OD, with mounting hole sizes across the car varying between M6, M8 and M10, and obtaining quality (e.g. Durite rubber) insulators seems relatively difficult, so I settled for SOME protection, rather than none. You'll see the insulating covers as I go through fitting all the cables. Moving on to the positive side, by drilling a largish hole here For fitting the thru bulkhead fitting Continuin the heavy duty positive in the passenger footwell and starting to route it up to the glovebox Having pre-drilled a hole, here it comes into the glovebox Then starting to position the high current fuebox / power distribution box And after lots more of this Continuing the cable run onwards Then back to the starter and alternator, using m6 x 35mm cable ends here So, having laid out the cable ends I am now ready to start to start workingn on installing my relay board into the centre console, and then fitting a new ecu fusebox into the glovebox also Thanks for taking a look! Comments are always welcome.....
	Last Edit: Jul 2, 2023 18:23:34 GMT by 16grit

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CaptainSlog Part of things Posts: 510 Club RR Member Number: 180	1976 Davrian Mark 7a CaptainSlog @captainslog Club Retro Rides Member 180
	Jul 15, 2023 4:32:11 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	I am enjoying this build immensely - please keep posting your progress!


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16grit Part of things Posts: 215	1976 Davrian Mark 7a 16grit @16grit
	Jul 15, 2023 17:43:25 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Jul 15, 2023 4:32:11 GMT CaptainSlog said: I am enjoying this build immensely - please keep posting your progress! Thanks for that, great to hear!


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16grit Part of things Posts: 215	1976 Davrian Mark 7a 16grit @16grit
	Jul 15, 2023 18:34:56 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Little bit more progress to report. First I finished crimping up the alternator -> starter cable and the main earth cable that I'm going to fit from the starter mounting plate to the rollcage, here they are. Had to open up the holes in one of the crimps to suit the imperial sized rollcage to shell bolts That's better Gratuitous second shot Will go hereish Fetching version in Red, bit porky but itswatigot Next up on the list was to start to fit the small ECU driven fusebox that's going to be fed by the larger power distribution box I have already placed in the glovebox. A few months ago I prototyped up my ECU fuebox and relay wiring loom, it's here In greaterer detail, this time with cunning Rubik style masking tape cheat notes, that are going to be a paing to remove one day.. Here's the cheeky little Cheap fusebox in more closerer greaterer detail Now, before I can get this lot in reorganisified in the fusebox, in an alarming display of forward thinking I realised that I'd better check how things were going to be placed with my wiper motor, which as you can see below, sits in the corner where the FIA cutoff swith is also going, and is held in place by a couple of bolts into the glovebox. Would the bolts for the wiper box interfere with my new fusebox location? I had bought some M8 'flathead' bolts to mount the new fusebox So I thought I would repurpose some of these (or buy some shorter ones eventually), meaning the bolts would interfere a little less in the internal side of the glovebox. The wiper motor mounting holes needed opening out first Cosi Leaving a little interference problem with the load-spreading washing that the witness marks on the fibreglass told me I should replace Chinesey finger file sorted that Meaning that I could use the flathead bolts like so (shorter ones will be found eventually) Giving me this from the inside (big power box now sporting its snazzy careless-whisperer proof cover Which meant I now had a location position for my ecu fusebox, with the added bonus of being able to access the wiper motor mounting bolts too All that remains is to drill the four mounting holes for the fusebox when I remember where my small drills have gone... So, my attention turn to making the new aluminium centre console piece where the relay holder shown above is going to be fitted Onwards with a bit of carboardAD, tracing More tracing Typically Davrian shape now in card (where the symmetrical rules of the universe fail to apply) Shiney ally Move the complex design from here To here Show it the grinder And again Put the bend into it before cutting out the relay box slot, used a section of exhaust pipe To get me to this Back on the grinder, clamping it as close the bench as possible to damp out the nasty vibes First slot Second slot, and then, unable to find my tiny coping saw thingy, chain drilling the end cuts And then a little bit of action with the fingerfile, and I'm here. Next up is to do a little detailed fettling to get the relay box mount to fit into the slot. I need to make some delrin or alloy standoffs too, and then I can trial fit what I have in the centre console - the piece already looks a few mil oversize all round so I know I've got more work to do to get it into the car, but overall, happy with the progress.. Thanks for stopping by!


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16grit Part of things Posts: 215	1976 Davrian Mark 7a 16grit @16grit
	Jul 22, 2023 17:57:53 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Micro-update from today's session. Progress is progress! Continued working on my 'slot' in the new ally sheet centre dash. I will straighten my slot sides eventually using some clamped-on mild steel guides, but my goal today was to get the shape large enough to accomodate the relay panel.. Started drilling the four mounting points, used a countersink to clean up the holes, I really must buy myself a deburring tool!! Plenty of fettling to the overally outline was required to get the panel into the dash. Drilled the remaining holes and trial fitted Now waiting on some delrin to make some spacers to fit between the underside of the bolts and the relay box mounting feet. Have note decided whether I'm going to cover the panel in vinyl as original or maybe spray with crinkle paint?? The other big decision is what instruments to mount. I do have this very RS200 ish Terratrip Speedo RS200 stylee Should I bother? Also thinking about going proper 80s and fitting a big low oil pressure warning light while I'm in real KitCarBuilder mode with ally sheet centre-console fun, but more important than all of that, my relay mount is now somewhere handy and I can get to work on continuing the starter and ECU wiring .. Thanks for taking a look


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16grit Part of things Posts: 215	1976 Davrian Mark 7a 16grit @16grit
	Sept 3, 2023 21:13:47 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	Where was I? First up was a little test light action to determine which of the four little mini terminals on the bottom of my FIA switch did what. They are in two pairs. One are 'closed' or 'on' when the main switch in in the 'ON' position, the other pair are 'closed' or 'on' when the main switch is in the 'OFF' position. I'm going to run a connection from my IGGY switch THRU the former, and a tap from the main switch feed to earth via an insulated reister thru the latter. SqueezyPeazy. Quck check with the light Only trouble was, now I knew which pair did what, it became apparent that the Switch KEY would foul the natty little period ALU switch mount, stopping it turning when actually bolted in place That would mean spinning the switch assembly through 180 degrees in the mount, no problem.. Focusing on the IGGY switch IN/OUT feed first, I would need to organise another pair of thru-bulkhead connections somewhere on the firewall. Thought I'd better place the wiper motor temporarily in place to check for room etc As you can see, relying on a massive Karmic Spike from the Unicorn pencil to guarantee accurate hole placement...Moving swiftly on, got the drillem out and made some holes THen got some cable and endybits and put it all together and so on and so forth and now a pic from the inside, to break up all the monotony, that's gottentobe etc... Until joy of joys, at least another couple of connections are made With that bit of the puzzle sorted, I moved my attention to the front of the car where the heavy battery cables were laying. Trouble being, the base of the battery box, a sunken section of the monocoque in the front luggage area, had been sawn out some time back. The 'sump' guard bolts to the base of this and years of harsh use had meant the base of the battery box was cracked and crazed. So I cut it out, leaving a hole. While jacking the car up to take a look at this, I noticed one of the reinforced kingpin carriers in the front suspension seemed to have WAY TOO MUCH PLAY.... I checked the other side, yep, the same. I had rebuilt the kinpins previously on both sides, so the pins and bearings were good, but with some pulling and tugging in the correct direction on the carrier, it was clear both carriers were simply worn out. So I bought a pair of 'as good as can be gotten today' replacments...which meant of course, that I pretty quickly needed to buy a set of these to sort out the rust on the internal bores.. In we go.... TopKwality Gear, Looking better Maybe they really were NOS, nice little bit of fraze here Bit of FingerBobs action The pair of them are beginning to shape up now, much better slide and on the other side The more observant onlooker cant failed to have noticed that the bottome bearing surfaces on both carriers do in fact have some nasty nick damage. Parking the idea of fixing that, and with the sudden return of a little bit of sunshine, I remembered what I had actually been trying to work on prior to that 'two steps back' episode, in the form of some fibreglassin action. You can see the hole under the bit of matt I'm trial fitting for size But what I would need to do is to make up a mould for the bottom to lay in as it got gotted. I chose a couple of decorator roller trays and promptly cut them in two, as the size looked OK Moving under the car, thought I might even get away without removing too much of the front suspension Other half ready to go on with some clampage Some liberal filling/bonding.scratching in an attempt to make my slightly ill fitting mould work Then getting the 16grit out to get some scratchy with the itchy Then, after making it smoover, with the the hoover, I added some 100g, 200g and 400g matt and rezin...readying myself for the fumage, I thought I'd get reet into the groove with some era-appropriate sounds And by the 278th loop of that, I was left with this.. which of course, in todays heat, in a confined space, was a joyous way to spend a Sunday. In my next episodium, I'll let you know if it went off or not..... Thanks for taking a look...!
	Last Edit: Sept 3, 2023 21:52:57 GMT by 16grit

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16grit Part of things Posts: 215	1976 Davrian Mark 7a 16grit @16grit
	Nov 12, 2023 15:11:01 GMT Select Post Deselect Post Link to Post Back to Top
	So, a few of the loose ends have been tidied up.. I needed to make some standoffs/spacers to attach my fuseholder into the ally dash panel. I bought a bar of delrin (or something similar..), cut it to length using a 'stop' on the saw so that they had a fighting chance of being the same length I cut a nitch of these Roughly center-popped them, Put em on ye old pillar drillum, bored out the middles and then cleaned up the holes with a countersink Which meant the fuseholder/centre dash panel now looks like this. I can now start wiring up the relays themselves, following the set up I have already done as a test.. Now, the supposedly 'new old stock' front kingpin/stub axle carriers that a 'reputable' imp parts supplier had sent me had some issues that I referred to above. Having cleaned them up internally in the post above, what was left to do was to de-bur the shim face for the kingpins, both had damage. I used a waterstone, a species of 'whetstone' or 'grinding' stone that woodworky folks use to sharpen their edge tools. This is what I had to deal with So just carefully working freehand I set about making sure the nicks in the surface were very gently flattened. Very little material was removed... Giving me this and then this I'm relatively happy now to move on to paint and reassemble the kingpins on both sides into these carriers, reshimming onto these surfaces as appropriate. Now these are standard spec, with the inner mountings (which can be used to control wheel camber by grinding the top/bottom faces and adding material as appropriate to effectively raise or lower the inner mount as it sits in the wishbone. As I am running around an inch lower on my inner arm mounts it can't start making adjustments there until I have reassembled the front suspension on both sides and see what camber I have with these new carriers. Another little job that I wanted to finish was this intake manifold gasket. Originally the engine ran a hotwax type idle valve in this location, which I want to delete. Now, I may very well end up tapping the inlet holes in the manifold here to mount an external idle valve, but right now I want to seal this up. So, with some gasket material, I made this Got my gasket punches out and did this So its now ready to mount with some welseal On the horizon I want to finalise the front battery mount and secure the battery cabling in the front luggage area and then move back to the relay and dash wiring. I'm also looking into a driver's seat and starting to think about steering wheel and pedal box positioning while I'm crawling about inside... Thanks for stopping by...
	Last Edit: Nov 12, 2023 15:16:07 GMT by 16grit

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