The last few days have been taken up with making the drip channel for the boot. It wasn't a job I was looking forward to and I kept shelving it for another day but it had to be done and now it is. I t was a bit of a fiddle but as with so often happens, the anticipation was worse than the event.
Starting with lengths of folded L section 1mm sheet these were shrunk and stretched to match the profile of the round tube against which the channel abuts. Tabs were welded to the back to ensure correct position on the round tube. I had previously made up corner pieces which were TIG welded before assembly. The whole thing was then welded in.
So this formed half of the channel. The second L section makes up the rest of it and if I have calculated the height correctly the seal will compress when the boot lid is closed. This piece is for the present just Clecoed in place because it cannot be in position when the aluminium panel is dressed over and access for the rivet gun needed. It will be bonded and riveted in place eventually.
One of the most attractive features of Horrido's artist's impression is the flowing curve from the windscreen through to the roof and rear window.
I want to reproduce the body shape as closely as I can to the drawing so modifications are needed to the basic frame. At present the longitudinal tube (33.7mm diameter) from the windscreen to the rear window is horizontal for most of its length.
What I'm hoping to do is take a curved slice out of this tube using the plasma cutter and then boxing it in with a closing section of 2mm thick strip. Using some wire I've been able to pretty much replicate the curve right through which is nice. The rear quarter light will need to have the profile changed to suit but hopefully not a major job.
This is a classic example of what happens with insufficient planning and drawing but I'm hopeful that the situation can be rectified and am grateful for Horrido's timely contribution.
glad i wasnt the only one who thought DB4/5 when i saw the rear light tunnels being formed
when you look into it theres about forty GT cars from the 1960s that look similar, so this isnt a very inspired observation, however, it also reminded me of gordon keeble in side profile. slightly hooded rear wheels anyone? hmmm
It's been an expensive week. In their wisdom DTA have superseded the S40Pro with a new model complete with price uplift. That was finally delivered and needed to be paid for and a day later along came the instruments. But they are bought now which is good. I like analogue instruments and on the strength of some good recommendations I have gone for ETB. They look very good and it was a pleasure to deal with John Gare at ETB, a very helpful person and well into classic cars. The speedometer uses the Hall effect and I plan to place the pick-up to sense the disc bolt heads. This arrangement worked well on the G15 and the beauty of an electronic speedo is the easy with which it can be calibrated. You may have noticed that I haven't gone for an oil pressure gauge. They just worry me and out of sight out of mind works well with me with an engine that can be so cheaply replaced. Had we been talking a full house engine then I would certainly have fitted a pressure gauge.
I like your style John. A clock instead of Oil Pressure gauge and no oil temp. Less is more :-)
Do ETB no do a Rolls Royce style power gauge instead of tacho?
I don't know Roger. That would certainly be unusual but it's too late now I fear.
I should have spent today making a boot lid but instead I got back on the panels. The interface between the lamp housing and the wing is a bit tricky but it seems to be coming out okay. There is a limit to how much metal can be stretched and in the case of even pure aluminium fully annealed a flange is limited to about 15mm and anything over that there is a risk of splitting. Obviously this is dependant on the radius so the less radius the wider can be the flange.
I needed to form a piece to fit immediately below the lamp housing . I used the technique known as a hammer form as shown here to tip the flange. The aluminium is tightly clamped between two piece of plywood and the flange tapped over, evenly and a bit at a time.
Another piece of material was TIG welded on, sanded and planished. In addition to the weld on the top I turned the piece over and using no filler fusion welded to ensure perfect penetration and minimise the risk of cracking. This is what they do in the States so I'm copying them.
A bit of shaping was carried out to match the profile of the adjacent panel and then it was clamped up tight to its partner and scribed ready for trimming.
The two pieces were welded together and planished. Amazingly, both pieces have stayed in shape and the panel fits!
I've gone into quite a lot of detail about how I arrive at a certain point but if you feel that it is over the top and would prefer me just to summarise with less explanation and pictures please do let me know.