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So...err...I may have bought another thing. You can never have too many projects, right? That's how the saying goes...    ...back at our place, after an hourish drive back from Midhurst.  It's a mk1 Triumph 2000 that was pulled out of a shed a couple of years back but someone in Club Triumph. Here it was when it was found:   From what I've heard, the plan was to strip it for parts but on closer inspection the actual structure of the car is pretty solid. So instead he clearcoated over the rust and did some recommissioning. Not sure which of the POs did the engine work, but it's now got a 2500 engine on carbs in it.   The chap I bought it from had a bit of tuning work done and it rolling roaded at 113bhp/152b-ft which isn't bad at all really, considering the graph stopped at 4100rpm. However, that was without any air filters on. From mucking about with bikes I know SU-style carbs are really sensitive to pressure changes ahead of the venturi, and although it pulled nicely at full chat it was pretty hesitant on part throttle. I can't see anything in the receipt for tuning that mentions new needles so I'm assuming they haven't been changed, meaning it's probably running a bit lean low down. For now I've stuck the filters back on, which has improved the low-speed running immensely but it now won't really pull past 3000rpm. Fine, and hopefully a bit safer, for pottering around but will need fixing. We've had a quick check over for bits to fix before I headed over to the GF's in Margate (about an hour and a half drive). First of which was that the fuel pipe to the rear carb was chafing on the strut tower so put some old fuel ine around it in the absence of the right sized copper pipe to make another.  Also fixed the wipers by crimping up the terminals up a bit (they're rubbish btw), got the lights working through the same method (they're catastrophic), and tightened up the front OS strut top nut as it wasn't even finger tight! :S quite nice to work on really, and my mate's 106 was short enough I could even poke the nose in the garage to do it!  The plan is for now to drive it about, tinkering with bits to get it running alright and sorting little bits and pieces ike wrapping up the snakes-nest of oose wires all 60s car designers thought was acceptable. The rust on the outside is clearcoated, but everything else is just open so I'll try and exorcise it piecemeal so it won't fall apart before its time comes on the project rota. Then, the ultimate plan will be...   I happen to have a 4.0l AJ6 and 5-speed that have come out of the XJ40, looking for a home. Looks like it'll fit...just  |
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Last Edit: Feb 16, 2021 17:17:21 GMT by biturbo228
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Do you know what cam is in this one? And what cylinder head it has got?
I've got both a 2000 with a 2500TC engine and an ex-US TR6, both of which are running on SUs. BCHs are my needles of choice now, as the previous BDMs were too lean in the mid and top range. Makes a hell of a difference once the fuelling is sorted!
Car looks good though, liked it ever since it surfaced a few years ago.
Matt
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1972 Triumph 2000 – first car, long-term daily driver and all-rounder, done 65,000 miles in my ownership. Has a tuned 2500 motor and is used for a lot of long-distance touring events  1972 Triumph TR6 – US import, returned to the road in 2019 for the first time since '85! 2004 BMW 330d Touring – general hack, much mapped up goodness  |
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Do you know what cam is in this one? And what cylinder head it has got? I've got both a 2000 with a 2500TC engine and an ex-US TR6, both of which are running on SUs. BCHs are my needles of choice now, as the previous BDMs were too lean in the mid and top range. Makes a hell of a difference once the fuelling is sorted! Car looks good though, liked it ever since it surfaced a few years ago. Matt Awesome thanks man as far as I know it's a bog standard 2500TC engine, although it's only the first chap who pulled it out of the shed I've got in touch with so far. Thinking about it, I have a TT Sprint 90 cam to go in my Spit6, which means the TR5 cam in that will be looking for a home. Will try to get it running nicely in the current configuration first I think, just to check for any hidden problems in other bits and pieces. Thanks for the needle recommendation. Are the codes written on them anywhere? Need to check what it's got in it already. I suspect the originals, but you never know... |
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Got to admire your ambition........ again.
The needle codes are stamped on the needle root. You have to take them out to see then. Pulling the choke out a bit when it goes flat will tell you if it’s going lean., though with those horrible pancake things, might just running out of air.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Got to admire your ambition........ again. The needle codes are stamped on the needle root. You have to take them out to see then. Pulling the choke out a bit when it goes flat will tell you if it’s going lean., though with those horrible pancake things, might just running out of air. Nick Ambition is one word for it... Yeah the rolling road chap (Enginuity I think it was) mentioned that the filters were mega restrictive, hence why it was rolling roaded with them off. I wouldn't be surprised if it was running out of air. I was looking at a pipercross panel as there's limited stuff you can do with the turret so close to the forward carb inlet. Either that or trying to make up a bit of an airbox and use a single bigger filter upstream. Although I'm not convinced the alternator is kicking out full juice as it was a little sluggish to start after an hour or so of driving, so it could be spark related (although why was it ok back from Midhurst if that was the case?). Going to do some testing on that this evening hopefully. Mainly prompted by the fact it wouldn't start yesterday! Suspect either dead battery, dying alternator, dodgy alternator wiring, or slow drain somewhere. TBH it's giving me some bits and pieces to potter about with when I'm down at the GF's so that's useful! |
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1972 Triumph 2000 – first car, long-term daily driver and all-rounder, done 65,000 miles in my ownership. Has a tuned 2500 motor and is used for a lot of long-distance touring events 1972 Triumph TR6 – US import, returned to the road in 2019 for the first time since '85! 2004 BMW 330d Touring – general hack, much mapped up goodness |
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1966 Triumph 2000->2500->4000fr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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I love these and seem underrated unless just not enough survived to be a thing?
I liked them in the late 1990s when I had my dolomite and then the levis advert in late 00s rekindled my love for them but still have never really been fashionable for some reason.
What is the wheel / tyre fitment on the first photo? I'm liking chunky tyres lately.
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wodge
Part of things
Posts: 458 
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Excellent! I was hoping this would end up here when I posted on the Cafe Racer thread. I thoroughly approve of the plans too!
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looks a great project, being a bit slugish to start when hot could just be the spark being a bit advanced, I've seen this on a few cars, modern fuels will allow you to advance the ignition a bit more than the original spec which means they run better but it's a bit too advanced for good starting, worn distributors don't help either.
I would try it without the air cleaners and check the jet is still round, a lot of them get the needles dropped to low to give a reasonable idle/ MOT pass when the jet wears, but this also means fueling it's off accross the rest of the rpm.
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Thanks man, it's all coming back to me now! Fantastic site that I love these and seem underrated unless just not enough survived to be a thing? I liked them in the late 1990s when I had my dolomite and then the levis advert in late 00s rekindled my love for them but still have never really been fashionable for some reason. What is the wheel / tyre fitment on the first photo? I'm liking chunky tyres lately. Yeah it's funny, they do seem underrated for those not in the know. Seem to have spent a long time in the doldrums, being worth sod all (during which time I failed to pick one up, as usual waiting until their prices have risen a bit before grabbing one). I haven't seen many of them out and about on the road, but there's a steady stream of them coming up for sale so there must be a few about. Not sure on what wheels they are in particular, but they're 14" steels. Tyres are 195/70 14s, and yeah I'm really liking the chunky sidewall effect. Seems to suit the car very nicely! Excellent! I was hoping this would end up here when I posted on the Cafe Racer thread. I thoroughly approve of the plans too! Thanks dude! Yeah I'm glad to see it here too. Seems quite known on the FB Club Triumph group, but I've never been a fan of FB groups as a format due to how closed they are (among other reasons, like lack of information permanance). looks a great project, being a bit slugish to start when hot could just be the spark being a bit advanced, I've seen this on a few cars, modern fuels will allow you to advance the ignition a bit more than the original spec which means they run better but it's a bit too advanced for good starting, worn distributors don't help either. I would try it without the air cleaners and check the jet is still round, a lot of them get the needles dropped to low to give a reasonable idle/ MOT pass when the jet wears, but this also means fueling it's off accross the rest of the rpm. Thanks for the tips man you might be right about the distributor being advanced as that sounds like something a rolling road chappy might have done to squeeze and extra horse or so out of it. Don't think I've got a timing light down this way to test it yet so it'll have to wait til I'm back home. Will have a peek at the jet as well. ------------------------------ Oh, another question. I think the distributors on these are a vacuum retard, rather than an advance (although I could be wrong). Would that help with starting as it would retard the timing at low rpm as it's trying to start? Currently there's no line fitted to the distributor at all. |
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1966 Triumph 2000->2500->4000fr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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Not sure on what wheels they are in particular, but they're 14" steels. Tyres are 195/70 14s, and yeah I'm really liking the chunky sidewall effect. Seems to suit the car very nicely! I hadn't spotted they were pressed steels - That's even better news as it's 195/70/14s I'm looking into getting. I guess those steels are narrower than 7" though? |
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The vacuum retard may have a small effect during starting, would depend on the crank speed and throttle opening. It was usually done to help with emissions.
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I hadn't spotted they were pressed steels - That's even better news as it's 195/70/14s I'm looking into getting. I guess those steels are narrower than 7" though? Will have a look around them for markings, but they don't look 7" wide to me. Can't find what they're from TBH... The vacuum retard may have a small effect during starting, would depend on the crank speed and throttle opening. It was usually done to help with emissions. Ah, so not necessarily something that I need to hook up (unless it idles like pants but runs ok everywhere else). Just started it up after having charged it yesterday evening, and having it sit overnight and all day. Started perfectly! Makes me wonder whether the alternator's just not beefy enough to keep up with wipers, headlights and prolonged 60mph running so it was slowly discharging all the way here. Hopefully the voltmeter will help answer that Although thinking about it the stock gauge cluster has an ammeter, although helpfully no numbers on the lines!  It was sat bang on halfway for most of the journey I think, but no idea if that's good or bad! |
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Yeah the rolling road chap (Enginuity I think it was) mentioned that the filters were mega restrictive, hence why it was rolling roaded with them off. I wouldn't be surprised if it was running out of air. I was looking at a pipercross panel as there's limited stuff you can do with the turret so close to the forward carb inlet. Either that or trying to make up a bit of an airbox and use a single bigger filter upstream. I've got one of these in my "maybe useful one day heap" which is what would have been fitted with that carb/manifold combination by the factory.   Don't have the original filter can to match though. Nick |
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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I've got one of these in my "maybe useful one day heap" which is what would have been fitted with that carb/manifold combination by the factory. Don't have the original filter can to match though. Nick Tbh given the space available that doesn't look like a bad effort. There really isn't much space between the carb outlet and the strut tower. |
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Most period (Smiths) ammeters read -30 -0- +30 Amps. So at a guess, the intermediate lines probably indicate -15A (discharge) or +15A (charge), while 'D' would indicate -30A discharge and 'C' would indicate +30A of charging.
The ammeter should read a few amps charging for a short while after starting, then settle down to the middle (i.e., near zero) once the battery has been recharged a bit.
Switching heavy loads on such as headlights, HRW, etc. may briefly affect the readings, unless the engine is switched off, then you should get a discharge reading.
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Hi, Try and find out what alternator it has got. Cars from that period are likely to have a 15 or 17ACR Which don't push out much more than 28 or 30 Amps and it would only take lights, heater and wipers to leave no spare capacity for charging. Although given it's age who knows what has been changed in the intervening years.
Colin
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,586
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I've been trying to remember what I did when I fitted a 2.5 engine in my Mk2. The inlet manifold you have is said to be the best but the extra length caused clearance issues. The airbox in the pictures is the one supposed to be fitted, I have one on mine and I seem to remember there are different thickness packing pieces under the engine mounts to gain a fraction more space.
The distributor should have a vacuum advance. There are a few different distributors, mine drove more smoothly using one from a PI than with the proper s one but I do have a different cam fitted. Is your vacuum advance blocked off ? I fitted an Aldon ignitor to mine as it seemed to eat points.
A lot of Triumphs would have been run with the ignition retarded to allow for unleaded low octane fuel, mine never ran well on normal unleaded.
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Rob
Part of things
Posts: 252
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late spec 2.5's with the hs6s need a 15mm packer under the drivers front engine mount. this moes the engine away from the wing.
as for the dizzy the simon bbc one makes a massive difference and is cheap. i use a regraphed 25d6 in my 2500s engine as the 45d6 is franklly curse word.
that odd airbox allows a modern cone filter to be fitted to the end pipe. works well.
the hot ticket with alts is a kubota tractor 100 amp one thats tiny and fits well. however bigger leads are reqd to the battery.
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eternaloptimist
Posted a lot
Too many projects, not enough time or space...
Posts: 2,578
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Love the shape of a Mk1. Had a Mk1 saloon back in the day, such a good looking car. The Mk2 estate I had was good, but you can’t beat the nose of the Mk1. I bet there’s not much weight difference between the current engine and the AJ6. Bookmarked.
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XC70, VW split screen crew cab, Standard Ten
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