Tool walls if are useful if you don't want toolboxes cluttering up the place. Pallet tops are generally free from warehouses, a lick of paint, some screws and a Sharpie and you're good to go. Mine cost a total of just over a fiver. Can't live without them now.
Nothing points at bad engineering more than creases in Gaffa Tape.
How much weight are you planning on storing above ? Don’t think you need to worry about doubling up joists unless you plan on storing things of significant weight.
Personallly id chipboard straight onto the joists above and use that for storage.
Drill your lighting cables through the joists below the chipboard and then plasterboard the ceiling and fit recessed Led panels into the plasterboard.
It won’t be excessive weight per individual things, but when all added up there will probably be some decent load. Boxes of books etc soon add up and I’d be nervous to load this on to the existing trusses. I’m thinking the additional support of 3/4 joists running across the width would give me some better feeling about climbing into the space with that stuff. If I can get some boards into the front/rearmost points then I could post the lighter stuff into the gaps.
Plasterboard and flat panel lights might be a good call, as I was thinking of boarding it anyway. What is the best colour temperature?
I'm in the process of reinstating the long since removed first floor in my garage (it was originally a hayloft above a stable). I'm using 7x2 joists at 16" centres to replicate what was originally there. If you consider your existing structure as something to leave unchanged, but work around, what you are doing is effectively constructing a mezzanine type structure within the existing one. So, you should make it strong enough to stand unaided and it won't add any loads to your existing roof.
Personally, I'd use 6x2 or 7x2 beams as you have laid out, but at 16" or 450mm spacing. Tie them together with short noggins, alternating two and then one, to add rigidity the in other axis. You're right, the space into the eaves is a waste of time adding further support to as you'll not get anything worthwhile in there anyway. I'd put 2x1 battens across those areas though, again at 16" spacing, and then board above the new joists and battens, between the existing ones, with 6mm ply. This will give a ceiling that can be painted, and give you something solid to paint that's more durable in a garage environment than plasterboard. You can mount your lighting battens between the new joists, maybe use shallower 4x2 noggins where you have two of them, so the lights don't hang down below the bottom of the joists too much.
Once the wiring and lighting is done downstairs, then insulate between the truss' joists upstairs, then floor the area over your reinforcing. If you want to have a proper loft hatch and ladder, then you will have to work out where it's going to go, then construct the new support around it, before tying the trusses to it, then trimming where they go over the hole and constructing an aperture in the trusses too. Could you access the loft area from upstairs in the house? It might be more convenient if there's a cupboard or hallway wall you could put an access door in.
As for electrics, if you only have a double socket on a fused spur, you'll definitely want to upgrade that I would think. If the garage currently has its own 16A breaker then you could look at running another leg out to the garage and creating a ring. Depending where your consumer unit is relative to your garage will maybe make your decision for you. I'd consider splitting the feed from the meter in two and having a separate consumer unit just for the garage, but it's hard to advise without seeing exactly how things lie.
Actually I've just noticed you have some block piers - perfect to brace the other way using joist hangers to link it all together.
This is my thought, so I’m glad you’ve mentioned it this way round.
I was (hoping) to run 5x 150x50 or similar joists across the width with some jiffy hangers from the walls. I’d run one between each block pier, and one between the brick walls in between (so one between door and pier 1, one between each pier, and one between pier 2 and rear wall). I’d run them under the existing trusses to act as support. Boarding would then be onto the existing trusses, with a hatch access somewhere to one side. The space wouldn’t be used for anything truly heavy, but it would need to take my weight for loading/unloading any boxes that get shoved up there.
Happy to take advice from anyone that is clued up on structural stuff!
Yep. Thats what i would do and keep anything heavy over the support timbers and against / bolted to the walls with lighter stuff in the middle. You also have a useful space full width over the garage door
Last Edit: Feb 10, 2021 20:55:02 GMT by sierra1off
After chatting with a couple of neighbours who have done similar, the concensus is that 3 joists are adequate - and they're storing a lot more than I would be. I will be looking to run one under each triangulation point of the trusses on the block piers, and one across the centre. Should I get concerned, i'll change this to two equi-spaced across the centre. This is for a little later in the project - first things first a workbench and some high level shelving.
Shelving will be simple - just some standard boards and some london brackets. Nothing complicated. This will help me get the lesser used stuff off the floors. The bench will come together based on some old worktop i've recently salvaged, with a CLS framework. I'm planning to build the rollcab from my toolbox into it, and shelf the rest so I can lose one of the current metal shelving units completely (in the end). Costed up, this 2M long shebang should come in at less than £50.
Hopefully on a shopping trip this weekend to pick up a few bits to get started - need to knock up some better models to create a cut list from.