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Dec 24, 2020 19:37:58 GMT
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Hey ho all,
1) Happy holidays
B) The PO of my car did a great thing and upgraded the viscous fan to a thermostatically controlled electric one. Yay.
Unfortunate for me; thermostat boy is dead.
"No biggie" says I, "I'll wire in a relay and switch until I can do something more permanent".
Wrong.
Problem I've got is that I cannot, for the life of me, find an appropriate signal wire to use for the relay trigger.
Is there anyone out there who's done similar with spotlights or fans or whatever that's taken a low current signal from somewhere?
I had thought this might be a problem (the lowest rated fuse in the box is 8A) but the one I picked blew a 5 and then a 10amp fuse; too much in my mind for the trigger signal!
Please, send help
L
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Dec 24, 2020 20:13:46 GMT
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This is how I would approach it:
Firstly is the fan switched to earth or live.
Secondly find a wiring diagram for whatever relay you have, find the 2 coil connections and 2 normaly open contacts.
Connect the fan switched wire to a relay contact, the other contact to earth or live depending on how the fan is switched.
Then the coil on the relay needs an earth on one side and live on the other, the switch can go in either side.
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It will come in handy even if you never use it
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Dec 25, 2020 16:28:42 GMT
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This is how I would approach it: Firstly is the fan switched to earth or live. Secondly find a wiring diagram for whatever relay you have, find the 2 coil connections and 2 normaly open contacts. Connect the fan switched wire to a relay contact, the other contact to earth or live depending on how the fan is switched. Then the coil on the relay needs an earth on one side and live on the other, the switch can go in either side. Hiya Kevins, Wiring the relay and the fan itself isn't my problem, the diagrams on top of the relay. The problem is finding the right supply for the switch trigger. I don't want to just take any feed for the relay coil feed, because then I may aswell run that power through the switch to the fan... |
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Dec 25, 2020 16:29:44 GMT
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This is actually the same as what I had before. I'm thinking that if I can't get the manual switch relay to work, I'll leave the wiring in and Re route through the lights for future spotlights and just use a new one of these. |
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,233 
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Dec 25, 2020 20:15:51 GMT
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This is how I would approach it: Firstly is the fan switched to earth or live. Secondly find a wiring diagram for whatever relay you have, find the 2 coil connections and 2 normaly open contacts. Connect the fan switched wire to a relay contact, the other contact to earth or live depending on how the fan is switched. Then the coil on the relay needs an earth on one side and live on the other, the switch can go in either side. Hiya Kevins, Wiring the relay and the fan itself isn't my problem, the diagrams on top of the relay. The problem is finding the right supply for the switch trigger. I don't want to just take any feed for the relay coil feed, because then I may aswell run that power through the switch to the fan... That’s not really how a relay works. It draws an exceptionally small amperage and can be fused with a 1A fuse. It just energises a small coil to connect the contacts in the relay. You can use the power from terminal 30 and loop to terminal 85 and then run 86 to a switch then earth. |
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Last Edit: Dec 25, 2020 20:16:55 GMT by Rich
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Dec 26, 2020 23:06:34 GMT
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Hi,
Take the main power for the fan from the busbar on the nearside inner wing next to the headlight relay.
You should be able to use any of the switched live fuses to provide the power to close the relay- as others have said they take very little power. If the fuse is blowing that suggests that you’ve got it wired up incorrectly or the relay is faulty?
If you have a space for a thermostatic switch (most of the later 240 radiators do) then an intermotor 50050 thermostatic switch will press into the blank space for one on the radiator, which is at the top on the back of the offside end tank.
A heated seat switch will fit in place of one of the dashboard switch blanks and can be wired up as an override.
Cheers
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Hello all, For completeness and the sake of rounding things out (and the fact that I completely forgot I started this thread) this is what I did: I gave up. I bought an electronic fan controller from Revotec and fitted that instead. Easy Peasey. rich my explanation wording is probably a bit off. I wanted an existing low power feed for the switch trigger. I didnt want to wire the relay back to itself to make the trigger circuit as you said (30 to 85,86 to switch) as, in my mind it defeats the object. You are right, it doesnt really defeat the object of using a relay, I'm just picky. As to why the 5A fuse in the switch line kept blowing.... who knows?! bugjam1999 thanks for the pointers and the write up! I did wonder at the time if the relay might have been faulty; I popped the case off the top to have a look and the coil looked fine and the switch contacts looked okay so I was none the wiser (hurr hurr couldnt have been difficult) after all... weird. I'll double check the rad for the thermo switch space, thanks for the suggestion!! I like the idea of having the manual override. All in all, cheers peeps! |
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