elfman
Part of things
Posts: 394
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Nov 30, 2020 20:38:34 GMT
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I need to paint my new space frame chassis, its mostly consists of a substantial roll cage but the lower part of the chassis is square section beams. I have tried a small tin of POR15 Gloss Black on an off cut of the cage and was very impressed used a brush and has no sign of any brush marks, plus it seems very tough. Someone else has recommended Eastwoods Black Chassis paint but i cant get a small tin to try. Any body used both ? and can recommend either or a alternative ? I don't want to powder coat the chassis as i found it chips too easy and some tubes are close to the rear wheels. If i paint it its easier to match if i need to touch it up or do any changes or repairs.
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Have a look for videos of U-Pol Raptor, its had good feedback from what ive heard
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elfman
Part of things
Posts: 394
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Thanks for that much appreciated but I want a gloss black finish not textured... it would not look right on a special saloon.
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U-Pol Raptor can be painted smooth and tinted to any colour you want.
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elfman
Part of things
Posts: 394
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Cheers Ill see if i can get a sample sent to test against the POR 15
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elfman
Part of things
Posts: 394
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To be fair U-pol did answer but did not come up with a good alternative to POR15. I would like to find out if the Eastwood Chassis paint is as good, I emailed frost and they recommended it but I would like to try a bit first ( they don't sell small pots to test) POR15 painted on with a brush was very impressive.
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elfman
Part of things
Posts: 394
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I really helpful guy from Frost called me this morning. The Eastwood Chassis paint is more chemically resistant than POR15 but needs more prep and undercoat etc. The POR15 can be put onto the new metal without no more than a sanding/scuffing to key the metal and a degreeser and is also the most chip resistant. Its probably best to wait until the warmer weather in the spring but it looks like POR15 in gloss black it is...
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I've been using POR-15 for a while now. From what I understand it's no longer at the cutting edge of chassis paints, but is still plenty serviceable. I hear a lot of very good things about Bilt Hamber Epoxy Mastic, which I gather is the current favourite.
Some tips I've found for working with POR-15. It really doesn't tolerate any remaining grease or oils at all, so make sure you get your part really well degreased beforehand. It also tends to have better coverage after it's spet a little time open to the air, but does tend to go off in the pot quite readily once opened so there's a fine window between it being at its best and it not being usable (it's still good from the get go, but is noticeably nicer to work with once it's gone off a bit).
I can't say anything about long-term survivability in my experience as nothing I've painted has led a hard enough life yet to find out. I do imagine it would function a little like powder-coating, with rust creeping under the tough outer skin of paint and you not really being able to see how far it's progressed from the outside. A check with a magnet or a firm prod every couple of years is probably a good idea.
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elfman
Part of things
Posts: 394
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Thanks for the info the Bilt Hamber does look good but i don't really want to spray it as I'm not a fan of 2 part epoxy paints or resins etc due to the nasty chemicals.
As its a competition car and only used in the summer months I can keep a good eye on any chips or damage and redo a section/tube if needed, its why I don't want to use powder coating as repairing is not easy. I've done a test on some roll cage tubing and its substantially harder than powder coating and looks very good even applied with a brush, no marks left at all, looks sprayed on. I used some acetone to clean the pipe first but will get a proper degreaser when I'm ready to paint the chassis...
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cant help with the paint side of things but wouldlove tosee a pic of the beast getting painted
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elfman
Part of things
Posts: 394
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No problem I will do a series of pics and build details when the car is close to being completed.. The POR15 is only for the space frame the body panels will go back to the cars original racing colour... I only ever use a max of two colours on a car plus any polished alloy panels. Keeps it simple and seems to work best on a small car.
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