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Nov 28, 2020 22:46:30 GMT
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Try and stay under 6.5" wide, I managed to get 16x6.5s on a lowered 205 Rallye with no arches - although I did have to tickle the car with a jack & grinder but you couldnt tell. These days though you have a much better selection of tyres so you maybe able to get away with a 7" wide wheel with a slightly stretched tyre. And yes, the clio wiper was a more sleek looking thing that pretty much just bolts straight on. My old 2 15x7 (195/50/15) 16x6.5 (195/45/16)
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Last Edit: Nov 28, 2020 22:49:25 GMT by joem83
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Nov 28, 2020 22:54:22 GMT
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Looking good, like the yellow
Wondering whether I should just get the steelies powder coated. Would be cheaper than a set of alloys!
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Nov 28, 2020 22:58:27 GMT
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Last Edit: Nov 28, 2020 23:00:05 GMT by joem83
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Nov 28, 2020 23:05:18 GMT
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Just a question of crawling ebay?
Saw a few cool wheels on ebay but for a tidy set looking at 400 quid which ain't cheap
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Nov 28, 2020 23:08:28 GMT
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I have got just about every set of wheels in last 6 years off of Facebook, the ones I just bought turned out to be someone from the same club I was in 15 years ago
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Last Edit: Nov 28, 2020 23:08:59 GMT by joem83
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Nov 28, 2020 23:44:05 GMT
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Should I start a thread on another retro rides subforum?
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Yeah pop one up in readers rides
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Last Edit: Nov 29, 2020 8:11:39 GMT by crossy10
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Last Edit: Nov 30, 2020 8:53:07 GMT by joem83
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Nov 30, 2020 16:54:56 GMT
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Thanks. One to ponder. Not so urgent.
How God awful do you think sub 200 quid coilovers would be?
I also seem to have broken my boot lock. It wasn't locking. Now it won't unlock. Hmm
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Nov 30, 2020 17:25:35 GMT
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I don't know on the coilovers, I fitted a spax lowering kit (40mm) to mine with new top mounts and a strutbrace. It handled great. Just bear in mind the rear is a torsion bar so you only get dampers and you need to have the torsion bar set to a lower height. If it's not seized and someone knows what they are doing it's about an hour's work.
Luckily the boot lock mechanism is like Meccano so dead easy to work on. Just pull the boot plastics off and push the latch button and it will open
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Nov 30, 2020 17:49:35 GMT
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Thanks.
I can get into the boot from the inside, and have now dismantled the lock mechanism and the lock is on my dining room table. Yet, it still doesn't turn. I had replacement keys cut yesterday, and the lock mechanism was working. Can replacement keys break a lock?
Another thing I didn't understand is the latch mechanism was had a cable connected to it - but I don't have central locking. So not sure what that cable does. Linked to an alarm?
I also discovered the footwells of the car are damp. Car has been covered today, so must be left over from the leaking sunroof. I have cleaned the drain holes with a brush on a cable and got some gunk out, so hopefully it is that which caused the problem.
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Nov 30, 2020 21:28:41 GMT
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Not sure there is meant to be a hole there! Bottom of rear seats and rear passenger carpets are very wet. Probably from my washing it but clearly has leaked for a while as there is quite a bit of corrosion on the seat mounting points. Now to identify the leak... From googling primary suspects are rear lights or boot seal (but boot doesn't seem wet) or rear quarter window seals (but replacement seals are expensive!!!). We know sunroof is leaking but don't see how that would have got to floor? Stuck a dehumidifier in for now but doesn't seem to be doing much. Maybe need to attack potential leaking aread with tiger seal! The rear hatch window trim is damaged but apparently it doesn't actually prevent water ingres... May need to sit in it and get the better half to hose it down!
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Nov 30, 2020 22:32:28 GMT
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If that's the only rust, that's pretty good.
I'm trying to remember where water comes in on these.
I know one of mine, the sill used to get water in and the best way to get it out was park facing down hill and poke the grommet in the front arch.
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Yes indeed let's hope no more lurking anywhere!
From a quick Google they seem to leak from quite a lot of places. My sunroof is definitely leaking, and suspect rear quarter windows are as well as some sign of damage/warping to rear door card. Replacement rear quarter seals appear to be rather expensive so might try fixing with some sikaflex. Not sure on the sunroof leak.
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I remember an old wheeler dealers where edd pushed a smaller rubber tube into a collapsed door seal to fluff it out a bit. Possibly worth a look to see if you could do that?
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,188
Club RR Member Number: 170
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What first project car?ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Thanks. One to ponder. Not so urgent. How God awful do you think sub 200 quid coilovers would be? I also seem to have broken my boot lock. It wasn't locking. Now it won't unlock. Hmm Not too bad. Not stellar obviously. Most of the issues tend to be that the springs are too firm, so you can end up splashing the cash there. From going in a Passat B5.5 on £500 AP Coilovers, I now would say there's not alot of difference between the two, which leaves spending a small fortune. I'd be tempted to get some decent dampers like one of Koni's offerings. The Bilstein B4 these days seem to be flakey in quality and on 205s were known to be a downgrade on the rear of the GTi models. Something like Eibach or H&R springs will be fine, alone with Spax IME for the budget. The rear of the car can only be lowered by removing the torsion bars and reindexing them. There are no springs in the rear. Welcome to the club! Spares aren't amazing for the 205 now, but you can get enough. Just cherish that trim and headlights etc. very well ; PSA have started making some of them again, but Jesus they're pricey! GTi red stripes within the bumpers IIRC are £1k from PSA now, albeit were unavailable for years.
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Agreed to buy 7 x 1.6 GTI Speedlines, four with apparently decent tyres, for a mere £100. Not bad.
Air filter in, nice easy job to start with, though trying to get the bloody thing to clip in took longer than it should. The old looked brand new, so the seller must have replaced it before he put it off the road in 2013!
The oil breather hose is damaged, so ordered some 19mm hose to replace that with.
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Quick query on timing belt change.
Haynes says the following:
"Note: Peugeot specify the use of a special electronic tool (SEEM C.TRONIC type 105 belt tensioning measuring tool) to correctly set the timing belt tension. If access to this equipment cannot be obtained, an approximate setting can be achieved using the method described below. If the method described is used, the tension must be checked using the special electronic tool at the earliest possible opportunity. Do not drive the vehicle over large distances, or use high engine speeds, until the belt tension is known to be correct. Refer to a Peugeot dealer for advice."
Can I simply ignore this warning ... ?
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