Mark
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,818
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Nov 14, 2020 13:26:56 GMT
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The past 16 months or so I have been doing a bit of resto mod stuff and my 1972 BMW 1602. This is a car I imported from Greece because a) I wanted a left hooker and b) I didn't want rust. Fortunately, despite it being incredibly tired mechanically, there is no rust or rot in the floors, sills etc and I'm quite keen for it to stay that way. As winter is almost upon us I'm thinking it would make sense to protect the underside and make use of the fact that it's currently bone dry as it has been in the dry for so long now. So can anyone advise on the best way for me to protect the underside but on a DIY basis please? I'm thinking a wire brush and a flapper wheel to prep and then apply some new fangled chemical stuff with a brush? Or is that being naive? Any advice would be much appreciated please guys n gals.    |
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BMW 320d (fridge on wheels)
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shin2chin
Part of things
Making curse word cars slightly better
Posts: 820 
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Nov 14, 2020 16:09:37 GMT
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Yep remove any flackey rust and underseal, rust convertor (I use Vactan), stonechip over any bare metal then a good coat of Dynatrol underbody wax. Get some cavity wax in there whilst your at it.
I do this every couple of years on my cars, on the drive. Drive on a big tarp if you value your drive/marriage.
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1977 PORSCHE 2.0na 924
1974 VW Beetle 1600
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Nov 14, 2020 16:13:57 GMT
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I had my van treated, mainly as the guys who do it are mates I think it would be do-able to do mostly what they did as a DIY job They pressure washed underneath, they used a high pressure hot pressure washer as well as a normal one, and plenty of TFR too They treated individual bits if needed, vactan, hydrate80 or POR15 type stuff Then treated with dinitrol. There were 3 ones, a really watery one for inside sills and for seams etc A thicker one that heals underneath and then a really thick one in a few places (chassis rails etc) You can buy it as aerosols, and get long tube spray nozzles to get into sill sections, Not sure how cost effective it would be, and have no affinity to the product but really the hardest part would be getting to all the bits, they have a single post lift outside to pressure clean and a couple of 2 posters inside when treating Edit to add: Found this kit www.rust.co.uk/product/dinitrol-rust-proofing-kit-1-358?gclid=Cj0KCQiAnb79BRDgARIsAOVbhRrHb6AQqeM8_ykOgsv9Miwk76wg5wCGFKlRa9leboWX_wSQcR7NOo4aAq7KEALw_wcBUnder the van looked like this   |
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Mark
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,818
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Nov 18, 2020 11:08:30 GMT
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Thanks for the replies guys. Must admit I am starting to think it might be better to get the pros in and have it done somewhere. |
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BMW 320d (fridge on wheels)
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Where are you based ? There are quite a few companies that offer this service and there is a guy on here that does it day in day out owning his own company ( trying to find the details )
Defo a good move to keep the salt or out weather from attacking you lovely car
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Mark
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,818
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Nov 20, 2020 10:30:00 GMT
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Many thanks for the replies guys.
Well it seems ARM, who have done my engine swap for me, took it upon themselves to do the underseal too. I dropped in on them yesterday and they'd masked and prepped everything in readiness. It was good to give the floor pan and sills a thorough check and I found just one 50p sized soft patch of corrosion. I plan to chop that out prior to undersealing obviously.
I'll post some pics for reference.
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BMW 320d (fridge on wheels)
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