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the turbo has gone on my grande punto 1.3d, its screeching and no boost, can just about still drive it and I have to to get to work a couple of miles away
I cant afford to buy a brand new unit, in the meantime I have bought a used one [on its way] which will give me my old one to work with on the bench which I might just put a new core into at a later date
I already have new gaskets, oil etc
so it will hopefully be a straight swap over
I could just have bought a new core right now, but I was just worried that if my old one doesnt come apart as hoped, repair time will be too long and i have to work every other day at 2.15am
obviously, if my housing has had it then a new core would be no good anyway, if I bought a recon I would have to send my old one back and knowing my luck, it would be knackered which would lose me a big surcharge.
so, am gonna fit a used one, get me up and running quick, with a view to seeing if old one can be recored
any tips or advice? suppliers?
might be able to stretch to a recon next year, I don't plan on getting rid of the car I like it and its in otherwise good condition.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,234 
Club RR Member Number: 160
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turbo/core - adviceRich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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I nearly exclusively fit CHRA (turbo cores) at work from eBay, I’ve never had a problem with them. The only turbo I’ve had issues with was a cheap complete unit from a ‘transit specialist’. Make sure everything is clean and the oil feeds, as well as the pickup in the sump are clean and clear from carbon.
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Can you recommend a supplier?
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,234
Club RR Member Number: 160
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turbo/core - adviceRich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Can you recommend a supplier? Not really, end up with a different supplier every time usually, whoever ships quickest to be fair. All the same cores usually. |
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Ok, i don't drive it that hard so as long as the housing isnt worn this is my intended route to a longer term fix when the funds allow.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,234
Club RR Member Number: 160
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turbo/core - adviceRich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Ok, i don't drive it that hard so as long as the housing isnt worn this is my intended route to a longer term fix when the funds allow. Yea, in terms of cheap complete turbos I’d rather put similar Money into just the core as to make the housings as well for similar money must in my mind mean corners have been cut. Swapping the core is no more difficult than removing the turbo unit in the first place, I see a lot of people capable of removing and installing the unit but then go on to say ‘ohh I could never install a code’ which is stilly, their no more technically demanding to install than an anything else. So yea, get stuck in!  London Turbos seems to spring to mind as a supplier we have bought from but as I said, it just depends on who is at the top of the list with the correct core number, we’ve even had them from Maxpeeding Rods before, that strangely mis-named Aftermarket parts suppler of coilovers and tat. |
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Last Edit: Oct 10, 2020 8:05:31 GMT by Rich
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Oct 10, 2020 16:41:07 GMT
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Oct 10, 2020 17:25:53 GMT
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I've used London turbos alot, never had a problem and I recommend them to anyone.
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp
1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon
1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered!
1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,234
Club RR Member Number: 160
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turbo/core - adviceRich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Oct 10, 2020 17:41:46 GMT
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I think I’d probably stump up an extra few spondoolies for the London Turbo one and build up a ‘new’ unit as planned |
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Oct 12, 2020 16:10:31 GMT
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got it fitted today, took me about 2.5 hours, and it was quite easy
the shaft bearings in the old one are properly gone, about 3mm of play in all directions, I have not had a chance to have a close look at it yet as rain was on its way and I just wanted to get the job done, by the time I got it running and off the ramps it had started to rain
new gaskets were used, apart from where the oil drain goes to the block which wasnt in the pack, the original soft gasket was still there so I used some Hylomar Blue, it isnt under oil pressure so I think it will be ok
car is nice and smooth again, and whine free [until the mrs gets in it lol]
a local turbo place has quoted £278 for a complete recon, which is cheaper now I have this duff spare one to give them so theres no surcharge to pay, I will see how this used one goes and hopefully it will get me through to better weather next year when I will have funds and perhaps invest in the new one. But I am not ruling out a core though, once I have had a closer look at my old unit.
one thing I noticed is that somebody has had that turbo off before, missing/odd bolts here and there and chewed up torx banjos [have reused and got them tight enough], so its had some sort of replacement in the past, car is on about 106,000 miles.
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Oct 21, 2020 16:37:13 GMT
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so its been running great although its a little smoky from exhaust, -blue
I didnt flush the IC so its possible its pushing old oil through there, the bearings were that worn that oil must have got through. The more miles i have done the less smoky it has been which makes me think thats what the problem was.
access to the IC isnt really possible without taking the bumper off, and I know that the fixings for that are fubared, as I previously tried to take it off to change the AC rad, I gave up as the fasteners just rounded off [torx].
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Oct 21, 2020 19:06:01 GMT
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Keep an eye on the oil level in the engine. If it isn't dropping and you don't urgently need an MOT then I would just run it until it clears.
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Oct 21, 2020 19:54:58 GMT
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if you take to higher, constant revs at standstill [not driving] there is no smoke, it seems to be at boost, under load.
oil level hasnt changed since I last checked it when it had new oil at turbo change [and day after]
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Oct 23, 2020 21:22:21 GMT
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I've always used Melett CHRA cores on various volvo turbo rebuilds over the past 6 or 7 years...great quality, about £140 is a core, depending on where you get them. www.melett.com/As mentioned above. Just do a good visual check of the hot & cold housing for damage, replace oil/coolant/vac lines as required if they look ropey and check your actuator & recirc valve (if applicable) are operating at the correct boost pressures. Easily done with a cheap hand held vacuum tester, £ 20 ish off the bay. Have fun !! PS You can clean out the IC in-situ by disconnecting the hoses and draining petrol via gravity through the core a couple of times. Do the same for hoses /throttle body / inlet manifold if possible. Let vapour clear then reconnect everything back up. Smoke should reduce dramatically and eventually disappear unless your replacement is also weeping oil. |
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Oct 26, 2020 18:31:28 GMT
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PS You can clean out the IC in-situ by disconnecting the hoses and draining petrol via gravity through the core a couple of times. Do the same for hoses /throttle body / inlet manifold if possible. Let vapour clear then reconnect everything back up. Smoke should reduce dramatically and eventually disappear unless your replacement is also weeping oil. i had that process in mind, I will see what I can access and give it a go I was late for work this morning and as a result, the car got utterley ragged on the way there, it seems even clearer now! I have no way of telling if the seals are duff in the used turbo I bought, and no idea how much oil may have got into the IC with the old turbo, so I think trying to wash out the ic and pipes that I can get to is the plan for now, thnaks for the info on the core too |
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Oct 26, 2020 19:06:22 GMT
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I've used a few Melett chra on a few customer cars with absolutely no problems, even better when they can be fitted without removing the hot side from the car.
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Nov 10, 2020 15:24:54 GMT
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update
undone the IC pipes, at the top where it goes into the inlet/egr manifold, and at the bottom where it comes from the turbo
I plugged the bottom part loosely with some rag to allow the petrol to slowly drain as I poured it in using the pipe at the top, drained it into an old washing up bowl, as expected what came out was like black ink.
after it drained, I blurted some compressed air through it
used some new jubilee's to connect back up, but when started it was a bit knocky, so there was still a bit of petrol within
I undone a lower IC hose and run it again, much more came out this time and once connected back up all was well.
been out for a light drive, it seems clearer and somehow a bit smoother but I will get a better idea when I give it more beans, didnt want to do that right away in case there was still any petrol pool in it.
when underneath it though, there was a leak of oil from the turbo drain where it goes into the block, one of the bolts I used when I fitted the turbo was shorter than the other, it has pulled the thread, I didnt have time today to try a longer bolt but the oil isnt pi$$ing out [not even dripping off bottom of engine] so I will keep an eye on it and next year when I rebuild my other turbo I will address the problem then while the turbo is back out and there is space to get to the thread hole and see what length bolt I can use.
I was looking on youtube last night at people cleaning intercoolers, some indian guy was flushing his out with neat diesel, on a TD engine. Hmm, bet that didnt end well. like Del Shannon said, run-run-run-run-runaway lol
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Nov 17, 2020 15:17:28 GMT
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update when underneath it though, there was a leak of oil from the turbo drain where it goes into the block, one of the bolts I used when I fitted the turbo was shorter than the other, it has pulled the thread, I didnt have time today to try a longer bolt but the oil isnt pi$$ing out [not even dripping off bottom of engine] so I will keep an eye on it and next year when I rebuild my other turbo I will address the problem then while the turbo is back out and there is space to get to the thread hole and see what length bolt I can use. I thought I would address this issue today bu trying to thread in a hex insert threaded stud, in the hope that it will grab onto whatever threads might be left deepest in the hole, sadly that didnt work out. its not immediatly noticeable in the pic that the part I am screwing into isnt the block itself, its an aluminium spacer that is screwed to the block. its not possible to get it off without taking the turbo back out [which isnt a very long job in itself now] I have tried cleaning the bolt hole as much as possible in the situation and bobbed some JB Weld in on the stud threads and put back in, the red is paint on the end of the thread to stop a plain nut from coming off should it be too loose, anyway its back together and I have tighted up the good bolt as much as I dare and thats how it was when the pic was taken. have ordered an M6 Helicoil, so will try that when it arrives, I will whip the turbo out with downpipe attached and it will be easy access then.   the spacer is part number 10 here, I will get that off and do the helicoil off the car, or try to get somebody better qualified than me to do it. |
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Nov 18, 2020 13:20:07 GMT
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final update and to close this
jb weld has set overnight and with a run to work and back, I've just had it on the ramps and got a bit of torque on the nut, given the area a final clean with brake cleaner to clear any excess oil, hopefully thats sorted for the time being or until I get a new core for my old turbo.
an M6 Helicoil set is due to land today sometime, should it be needed in the future.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,091
Club RR Member Number: 64
Member is Online
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turbo/core - adviceglenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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Nov 18, 2020 17:30:19 GMT
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Cool. I have a replacement CHRA to fit to my spare turbo as the one fitted isn’t boosting that well and is a bit noisy on a cold start. Fingers crossed it goes OK.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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London Turbos seems to spring to mind as a supplier we have bought from but as I said, it just depends on who is at the top of the list with the correct core number, we’ve even had them from Maxpeeding Rods before, that strangely mis-named Aftermarket parts suppler of coilovers and tat. 
