Dez' 'fleet' thread. Another bl00dy transit!

Sorry to clog your thread up with this but you’d be able to scrape anything off the floor using something similar.

I had a vague look, trying to answer my own question, and couldn’t find anything higher than 118, which is 1320kg. Meaning an axle limit of 2640kg.
Rear axle kerb mass is going 500kg minimum even single wheel. Then a super light bed 300-350. Up to 100kg more for a more substantial fully covered one as they all seem to have. Means at best a 1700kg load, not even enough for a average saloon these days. And I’m sure it’s the first think VOSA would look at what they pull you, outside of tyre weight limit is a super easy fine for them.
And that’s before you get to what would happen if you actually did a tyre when fully laden...

My reason for choosing a dual rear axle was and is always down to stability in the event of a blowout, or even a "normal" puncture. Same reason for always using a twin axle trailer.

I do not know the condition of roads in the UK currently (haven't been over for the last 3 years unfortunately) but the dualies give far better stability on roads with potholes or "trucklanes" in the road.
Thom

So in between other things I’ve been piecing together this ramp bed from all the bits I’d salvaged. This is all fairly basic work and easy to pick up and fit in here and there between other things.

I had salvaged 7x 2x2 crossmembers, and 2x 10’ lengths of 2x4. These were set up like so, crossmembers spaced at 2’ working from the back end forwards, with the 2x4s centred on the rails. The crossmembers were notched into the main rails to keep the top surface flat for when it comes to skin the bed.






This is the bed propped roughly where it will go. You may notice the very large gap to the cab, this is because I’d used up all my 2x4 so had to order more.


Which duly turned up after the weekend. There’s actually the steel there for 3 entirely unrelated jobs, only the 2x4 is for this.


I used the saw to chop it all to length.


So I cut 2x 5 foot lengths and marked up for the notches they need.




Talking ‘design notes’ a 15ft bed with 2ft spaced crossmembers gives a final spacing from the last crossmember to the cab back of a foot. This works out nicely for winch mounting which you’ll see later. I’m also using angle for the front edge of the bed, there’s no point using another box crossmember as it never sees any weight that close to the cab back, so a nice little weight saving. The ends of the 2x4s were notched to allow the angle to sit flush.




Ready to go.


These were then spliced onto the ends of the original 2x4s, using some hefty angle and some clamps to set the allignment.
I welded these extensions on at the front rather than the back, so the join wasnt at the stress point of where the overhang meets the chassis rail.




Here is the complete bed with the angle set at 7degs, between bed surface and chassis rail.


Here’s how the angle finishes the front edge.


And I’ve also made the frontmost legs to mount the end down. All the bottom tabs are just the old ones cleaned up, with 40x40 legs as the tabs are 40mm wide. Top end cut to 83degs to suit the bed angle.
The very front of the bed is about 10” higher than before, by the time you’re just past the axle it’s the same height, then the back where the beavertail ‘hump’ was is lower, then the tailboard should be the same height as before.



At the back the rails just rest on the end two tabs and are tacked on for the mo. There will be some bracing later just behind these that will sit on the end of the chassis rails, but bolted up property not bodge welded like before!


With these 4 points at each corner tied down I can start adding the other legs.

Here’s some overall views.




I’ve still got a crossmember to add, plus the other mounting legs, then the outside rails will be added in 2” angle, again another weight saving measure as box section is entirely unnecessary. This will support the outside edge and also be let-in flush so it caps the ends of the crossmembers and allows the sheeting to sit flat.
Then I can get onto the more interesting bits of making it look a bit cooler and sorting the fine details of its functionality like the light board and tie downs.

One thing to say is that this lot is shockingly light compared to the old setup. I’m actually a bit worried at this stage it’s going to sit too high compared to before!
There’s still a bit of weight to go on yet though so it should creep down a bit.

Yeah that will all come later. I Want the actual platform made and the rest of the legs in before I get onto stuff like that.

Look great! Nice, keep it simple (and light) engineering.
I assume that you do not only blast and spray the bed but also give the chassis some rust prevention?
Thom

Well, if it ever stops pi$$ing it down, I might get back on with this now I’m back at work. In a brief break in the deluge, I did mock up for how 10ft ramps will fit and work.

Here it is sat on the back of the bed. The angle doesn’t currently match, but it’s not meant to. The idea is as you pull a car on and the weight sits on the ramps it all levels (or unlevels I guess) out and you get a straight run. Of course I won’t be able to fully test that til it’s all done, but by eye it looks about right.


My ramp storage looks like it’ll work out too.
Theres room for them to go here.
I was gonna buy some ally ones but they’re £300, and I calculated doing them all in this 80x40 thin wall I happen to have kicking round with no real use for, then skinning in leftover checker plate will only weigh about 15kg more and the only cost is labour, so I’m doing that.


There will be a couple of rudimentary sliders to feed them into and stop them bouncing round, and at the back the number plate section of the rear light bar will hinge to allow removal (and lock for security). All pretty simple stuff that will be neat and tidy.

Slow progress, I blame the weather.

I did sell the old ramps (Ifor trailer ones) for a couple hundred quid and I got paid to deliver them as well, which was a pretty good deal.

Between slogging away on other projects I’ve got these front corners done. They need to be rounded for ‘elf an’ safely reasons (although if they corner hits you you’ve Proably already been decapitated by the mirror).
But if I get pulled I don’t want to give VOSA reasons to fine me. I could have just angle cut them, but this is me we’re talking about so I radiused them.
I’ll let the pictures do the talking.










Here you can see their purpose, they tuck that sharp sticky-outy corner away behind the cab.


I then did the other side as well and neglected to take any pics.

I’ve also ordered yet more steel to do the rear light bar and a few other bits as I changed my mind on how I was gunna do it. That gets delivered tomorrow and then I can get that bit done.