Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dec 12, 2021 18:08:04 GMT
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A profit is always good, especially when unexpected. I presume that this is the house project you mentioned a few weeks ago elsewhere; intruiging looking place, so how about starting a thread, even if only to whet our appetite for the time being? Yeah it is. I’ll Proably do it over Christmas when being forced to sit around doing nothing when I don’t want to. I’ve got 650 pics saved up to cover what I’ve done/discovered so far, it involves slagging off other government institutions though so I might got told off again 😂
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Dec 12, 2021 19:51:39 GMT
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I can't remember teh 48 fleetmaster, is this the heavily chopped one? some beautiful lines on those even as stock
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dec 13, 2021 20:39:42 GMT
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I can't remember teh 48 fleetmaster, is this the heavily chopped one? some beautiful lines on those even as stock It is. If you go back to page 1 there’s a link (I think) to it’s thread.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dec 13, 2021 20:44:51 GMT
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Scrapped the cat off the civic today. The guy who does the cats was away when I took the car down then I was away for a week too, but today or schedules coincided- More than that got for the car 😂 I’m now at over 3 times what I paid for the car after 6 months of abusing it. He also pointed out ally wheels are really high at the mo too and I should pop the tyres off and run those down as I’m gunna be knocking on £400 off a £100 car by the time I do. That’s a bit of a bangernomics win.
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Last Edit: Dec 13, 2021 20:45:35 GMT by Dez
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maf260
Part of things
Posts: 533
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Dec 14, 2021 11:36:38 GMT
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How much are alloys worth currently? I have a 15" set with zero desirability/value for a Mini that might be worth weighing in.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dec 14, 2021 11:59:25 GMT
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How much are alloys worth currently? I have a 15" set with zero desirability/value for a Mini that might be worth weighing in. I was just quoted £1400 for clean, so £1.40 a kg. For an average set of 15s that’s gunna be 45-50 quid or so for a set as an average factory alloy wheel is going to be 8-9kg.
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maf260
Part of things
Posts: 533
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Dec 14, 2021 17:07:16 GMT
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How much are alloys worth currently? I have a 15" set with zero desirability/value for a Mini that might be worth weighing in. I was just quoted £1400 for clean, so £1.40 a kg. For an average set of 15s that’s gunna be 45-50 quid or so for a set as an average factory alloy wheel is going to be 8-9kg. Thanks very much. I'll have the tyres taken off and weigh them in. Somebody might even want a set of budget tyres cheap as well
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dec 17, 2021 21:36:37 GMT
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As apart of my continued sort out i popped all the tyres off the civic wheels before they started gathering dust, plus a couple of 15” oddments I found down the side of the workshop. Over the bridge- Very strong money for alloy wheels so I’m dead pleased with that. More junk gone, more money to pay for other things.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Dec 17, 2021 22:10:12 GMT
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Speaking of other things, I’d just stuck the Skoda round the side of the workshop and forgotten about it until the v5 appeared. In that time the MOT had expired, so I now had to sort the last bits and bobs to make it testable. Previous list from a few pages back with amendments 1.-dislocating front chopped springs. 2. balljoint. 3. Rear tyres shagged out. 4. wheel flat spot. 5. Rear exhaust. 6. Fan wiring/switch. 7. Front crossmember. (Not mot fail) 8. Stereo on permanently. 9. Drivers speaker grille missing. (Not mot fail) 10. seats. 11. No v5.12. No rear springs. 13. Bit of grot on rear shock turrets. (Not mot fail) 14. Drivers window falls off the runners. 15. Gear linkage very sloppy. 16. Damaged rear brake pipe. 17. Intermittent misfire. So the next major issue is them rear springs, or lack thereof. I did some reading up on this and people ‘recommend’ fitting various lowering springs from different vehicles, mostly mk4 golfs or Octavias. That’s great if you want it low but never plan on putting anything in the back. I want it low but still with a fairly stiff spring rate. So I bought some stock springs, from those efficient Czech chaps again- Would have cost me £68 in the uk, bought from the Skoda-diely people for £48 delivered and they turned up in less than a week. The other this I bought is a second hand pair of these- They’re ‘drop plates’ from the back of m1 golf, caddy, etc. they just act as a stepper for the bolt-on spindles, and give 80mm of drop. Some parts number bashing says the Felicia rear spindles are the same as mk1 golf and caddy, so these should bolt straight up. I guess I’ll find out the hard way if they don’t! They’re fairly hefty 10mm plate, which will actually work in my favour a little as the truck currently has 5mm spacers for the rear wheels to clear the shocks. With these on I can ditch the spacers and they’ll only sit 5mm wider. I imagine I’ll still have to chop the stock springs after fitting these to get the desired ride height, but that will give a further spring rate increase so I’m not complaining. Just need some ramp time to try it all now.
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Last Edit: Dec 17, 2021 22:13:57 GMT by Dez
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,338
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Hm. I made track spacers for my Felicia and none of those bolt holes look like they will line up on the stock stub axle. But that hardly an issue for you at the end at the day Dez. Edit: found the pic for a side by side compare when it’s loaded Edit again: yea, I think I can see corresponding holes now. Hard when there are so many holes.
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Last Edit: Dec 18, 2021 7:42:48 GMT by Rich
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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With the annual season of compulsory festiveness completed, I’ve been threatening to put a MOT on that Skoda. So first I had to chuck all the insides er, back inside. This involves cutting down the ‘new’ rear carpet using the manky old one as a pattern. The old one is obviously just a car one cut down and bent to shape, but there’s nothing to indicate it’s ever been swapped, so that could well be how they did them from factory. Note how they’re cut different around the handbrake if the car has a centre console. The front section is cut differently over the tunnel too to allow it to bolt down. I peeled the insulation off the back of the old one and fitted that as well as the new set, so I have double insulation to hopefully make it a bit quieter. It made it a bit harder getting the carpet back in but with some knocking it into the corners, it fits. Speaking of centre consoles, that all got fitted up and bolted down too. As well as the console the handbrake cover and gearstick boot are different too so it pays to be breaking a car to make sure you get everything. You even need a fitting to go into the square hole on the floor to screw it down. The carpet is not mint but is 100x better than what was in there, and mostly importantly doesn’t smell of 25 years worth of builders cheesy sweaty arsecrack. Just a couple more trims to go on then thats done. I fitted the door seals off the donor too as they were cleaner and not damaged. Lastly I painted the seat brackets I made ready for the seats to go back in. Drying times are not great at this time of year, but hopefully I can get them back in tomorrow.
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Last Edit: Jan 5, 2022 19:04:09 GMT by Dez
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Seats are back in. This would have been a half hour job if I didn’t mix up the brackets side for side, and I could remember what order bits had to be done in to be able to tighten and align everything. But suffice to say I did and I couldn’t, so it took a lot longer! The blue floor mats out of the breaker Felicia actually tie things together really well, being as they’re close-ish in colour to the blue on the seats. Just got to cut the sill trims down and fit those and that’s it for now, I’m not taking the dash apart yet!
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braaap
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,748
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Hm. I made track spacers for my Felicia and none of those bolt holes look like they will line up on the stock stub axle. But that hardly an issue for you at the end at the day Dez . Edit: found the pic for a side by side compare when it’s loaded Edit again: yea, I think I can see corresponding holes now. Hard when there are so many holes. I still struggle to see a "system" in that bunch of holes. Really curious to see these "swiss cheese slices" mounted.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Jan 10, 2022 23:56:42 GMT
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The more astute amongst you may have noticed I’ve not mentioned the transit for about a year. Last time it was mentioned was last Jan, when I was figuring out some of the bed stuff. Well over the last year it’s been in the other half of the workshop, and I’ve been picking away at it as and when, and not just the bed. But I’ll cover the bed bits first as it’ll make most sense that way. When we left off I’ve got one of the big lower braces in, then after that I put the other one in so they were all done. I was then thinking about the next bits. The first of those were extra crossmembers in between the main 2x2s (which were spaced at 2 foot) to stop the ally sheeting bowing under weight. As these aren’t full spans 2x1 on edge was deemed sufficient to keep weight down. This reduces the unsupported distance on the ally sheet to less than a foot, which given the contact area of the average tyre should be more than close enough. Heres 14x of them cut. Again it’s mix of new and used materials to keep costs and waste down. Here they are all spaced, squared and welded in. With those in that was the bulk of the platform construction done. I then needed to finish off the legs, which involved grinding up all the old feet, then cutting pairs of descending height legs to go between the bed and the rails to prevent bowing. Nothing particularly taxing as long as you can work a tape, a square and a slide bevel. Then i cleaned up and repaired/lengthened the legs on the winch mount plate so it can span the frontmost gap on the bed. Again, nothing that complicated, just tidying and making good what I already had.
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Last Edit: Jan 11, 2022 0:00:12 GMT by Dez
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Glad to see an update - this is actually my favourite fleet vehicle of yours (and yes, I accept that I'm odd).
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Sometimes, others may not understand why you like a car so much. Sometimes, you may not even understand why you like a car so much. But none of that matters; all that matters is that you like the car, and having it makes you happy.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Jan 11, 2022 23:16:38 GMT
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Glad to see an update - this is actually my favourite fleet vehicle of yours (and yes, I accept that I'm odd). The transit? Really? Yes that is very odd but you’ll be pleased to hear there’s lots more to come 😂
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Jan 11, 2022 23:55:12 GMT
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The next round of stuff on the bed. I cut the big sheets of checkerplate down to width and chucked them in place to get a feel of how it will look. I’m happy with how they work, but they can’t be attached yet as the bed needs sandblasting. It gets it clear in my head how certain bits will operate though. With all the fundamentals in place, it was time to do some tarty bits. I drew these up on the fly they banged em out in 2mm. I’d been experimenting with edge swaging on the trumpf and wanted to try it out on something. They do have a little bit of function to them in that they brace the lower rail under the lights whilst reconciling where everything meets in that corner, but otherwise they’re just to look good. But mostly I did them like that as there wasn’t much room for any ‘flair’ on the bed without reducing functionality, so I had to get some in somewhere! Next thing I did was make up the ramps as I need to figure out storage for them. These are an experiment in just how little I can get away with. The box they’re made of is quite small and thin wall. I think it’s 80x40x1.2 from memory. I calculated that when skinned with the leftover checker plate they’re the same weight as a set of ally ones, but thinner and with a longer taper. They’re also 10ft long to give me a super low entry angle. The lower tapers are plated in with 2.5mm thick strap, as this will potentially be a ‘wearing’ part when dragging them around. Next I need to make them hang off the back of the bed. There’s lots of complicated ways of doing this, but the simplest and best solution to me is always Angle into angle hook channels. They’re easily adjustable for width and angle, and if they get bashed are easy to straighten. Something like this- One bit of angle welded to the end of the ramp, to hook into another bit welded to the end of the bed. That doesn’t mean I can’t tart them up a bit though. Some added lightness and the corners rounded to bring em up a bit. Note the outer end is deliberately left open so they can be swept out. Then, there’s some big infill plates to go at the back for the light mounting. These sit recessed and weld onto the corner braces above too, properly stiffening up the lower corners, because if anything gets bashed, it’ll be those. You can see my plan is to have the centre section hinged and the ramps slide in behind, but I’ve not quite finished headscratching on that just yet. I’m kinda 90% there but I want it to be slick and also secure. Apart from that, flipping the bed upside down and finish welding some bits, and the rear arch mounts, the bed is about ready to sandblast and paint. There’s major work going on elsewhere first though.
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LowStandards
Club Retro Rides Member
Club Retro Rides Member 231
Posts: 2,716
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I can't help but think you could have done away with the extra bracing and chucked some 3mm steel checker on there for roughly the same weight?
I hate ally on recovery vehicles, I'm always replacing it, but then again, I work with pikies so...
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 2,010
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Great work as usual. Are you going to fit a piece of angle in the centre section too so you can use a ramp there as well? I know the bed is open down the middle, but you can always use a bit of ply to accommodate for transporting something narrow like, say, a sit-on lawnmower.
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Jan 12, 2022 11:43:33 GMT
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Be good to see this in action, some great thought gone into it. you going to mesh the centre to be able to walk on it but keep weight down ? How is the load capacity looking, they love to check weigh these don't they ? Keep the updates coming its always an inspiration seeing what the pro's do. James
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