big02
Part of things
Posts: 62
|
|
|
Great progress.
I’ve just seen your engine on Facepalm Marketplace, I didn’t know you were local.
Would you mind sharing who’s doing your bodywork. You seem pretty pleased, which I hope is an indication of reasonable pricing and/or good workmanship. Feel free to PM me details if you don’t want to share on here.
Loving the updates.
|
|
|
|
|
logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
|
|
|
You have pm re engine. Dan
|
|
|
|
jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 689
Club RR Member Number: 121
|
|
|
Great progress. I’ve just seen your engine on Facepalm Marketplace, I didn’t know you were local. Would you mind sharing who’s doing your bodywork. You seem pretty pleased, which I hope is an indication of reasonable pricing and/or good workmanship. Feel free to PM me details if you don’t want to share on here. Loving the updates. Thanks! Ah yeah? Whereabouts are you based? Pretty happy with the bodyshop at the moment but I'll hold fire on sharing details until the work is complete Picking up where we left off, the DG engine has now gone on to live another life in another van. Great to meet you Dan. I’ve been focused on sorting some of the rear suspension parts out, all of which are in a pretty crusty state. The rear hub nuts on these are tightened beyond FT, even beyond FFT (500nm) and this left me with a problem. How was I going to undo these now the arms were off of the van? Various sketchy practices were tried until I decided to invest in something I’d been eyeing up for a while... Yeah that’ll do it. Took them off like they were finger-tight. Will be a handy tool to have in the arsenal and actually pretty reasonable as I already had batteries and a charger. Finding I'm having to level up my tools a bit compared to working on the Golf. Bigger sockets, breaker bars etc. No idea how I'm going to retorque 500nm! Set about cleaning all of this rusty guff up. The trailing arms are actually in pretty good nick structurally (hurrah, something I can actually reuse!) but obviously the bushings are fubbard after 30 years of service. Wheel bearings looked to be original VW parts too but to clean these up properly they need to go. I’ll save you the grubby CV grease escapades. Armed with various buckets of suspicious coloured liquids, everything is soaking nicely in a bath of Deox C. The powder seems to work pretty well, the gel not so much. Maybe user error. If Pablo met Dexter… Bushings...these things are toast! Completely fused from rust and not going down without a fight. After spending an hour or so trying various methods to get one of them out, I gave up and ordered a butane torch. If in doubt, burn it. Dog agrees. (that's garden mud she's plastered in by the way, not CV grease/van debris!) Tune in this weekend to see the results of the p*ss coloured rust bath and putting this small fortune of parts to good use.
|
|
Last Edit: Feb 17, 2022 9:49:45 GMT by jmsheahan
|
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2022 13:27:52 GMT
|
Enjoying the story, and remembering I sold my T25 surf bus for £800 in 2004. Ah well. Also nice to see the pup, I simply cannot have my doggo in the garage because he cannot help himself sticking his nose in EVERYTHING. You've done so much of the leg work, I know this project will come together beautifully.
|
|
1971 Triumph Toledo 1500 Road/rally 1998 Peugeot 106 Rallye 2007 Volvo V50 T5 AWD "Sensible Daily" 1978 BMW R100RS Cafe Racer "Jägerbomb" 1979 Harley Davidson SXT trials bike 2018 Black Lab/Alsatian cross "Rocky"
|
|
jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 689
Club RR Member Number: 121
|
|
Feb 17, 2022 17:30:03 GMT
|
Enjoying the story, and remembering I sold my T25 surf bus for £800 in 2004. Ah well. Also nice to see the pup, I simply cannot have my doggo in the garage because he cannot help himself sticking his nose in EVERYTHING. You've done so much of the leg work, I know this project will come together beautifully. £800? Wow back when things were reasonably priced. Nuts how mad scene tax has gotten. Haha yeah, mine's the same to be honest. I tried hard to make sure she was desensitized to as much as poss as a pup, including the sounds and smells in the garage. May have backfired slightly as she's not scared of anything Thanks! Appreciate the comments. SUCH a long way to go still but if I can get the van solid, painted outside and underside, and have a decent watertight rolling shell by the end of the year I'll be very happy.
|
|
|
|
jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 689
Club RR Member Number: 121
|
|
|
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 7, 2022 12:07:26 GMT by jmsheahan
|
|
|
|
|
Awesome project Sir! Is it necessary to use wire wheel after Hydrate 80 or it can be painted straight on to it with Electrox?
|
|
|
|
jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 689
Club RR Member Number: 121
|
|
|
Thanks! Technically, you shouldn't really coat Hydrate 80 with Electrox if you read the datasheets. I only used it in a few localised areas so scuffed it lightly one dry and took the risk. Everything seems to have adhered well.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The reason why you shouldn't use a rust converter under Electrox is not due to lack of adhesion, but the fact that the Hydrate 80 will electrically isolate the zinc from the steel, so you aren't getting the benefits from the Electrox. It'll be no worse than using any normal primer over the top though.
|
|
Sometimes, others may not understand why you like a car so much. Sometimes, you may not even understand why you like a car so much. But none of that matters; all that matters is that you like the car, and having it makes you happy.
|
|
jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 689
Club RR Member Number: 121
|
|
Mar 14, 2022 14:37:13 GMT
|
Cool makes sense. Finished the arms up at the weekend so back waiting for bodyshop updates. Once these are bolted back on I'm going to have to figure out where the hell I can get a torque wrench capable of 500nm from! Hmm! In the interim, it might be time to drag the Golf out of slumber.
|
|
Last Edit: Mar 14, 2022 15:09:51 GMT by jmsheahan
|
|
|
jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 689
Club RR Member Number: 121
|
|
May 30, 2022 16:09:07 GMT
|
Been a bit 'out of sight out of mind' on this the past couple of months but thought I'd pop up to check on the van at the weekend. I'm in full-on save money mode at the moment with this and my wedding doing its best to bankrupt me. This means no spare cash to buy parts for this unless it's body related. As mentioned earlier, fabrication-wise, the front is finished and we're into digging into the rear. Some of this I was expecting to be bad such as the trailing arm mounts and it's nice to see new strong metal going in there. What I wasn't expecting was this mahoosive bodge on the side panel that's been globbed full of filler. GAH. Properly weird place to rot here, the seam you'd expect but the main bulk of it is further in than that. Arches had loads of rot as suspected so good they are being chopped and sorted. No doubt the other side will be identical. Rear valance and both engine bay closing panels are fubbard too. £350 later in MORE panels...nevermind, we push on! Hoping to have the rolling shell back to me by August. Then I can crack on with the epoxy/raptor work underneath and start the actual build phase. There's always some interesting stuff up there - this time an Uno Turbo, Escort, Bristol, and this rather weird and wonderful Beemer: Until next time!
|
|
|
|
|
|
May 31, 2022 15:22:12 GMT
|
Thanks! Technically, you shouldn't really coat Hydrate 80 with Electrox if you read the datasheets. I only used it in a few localised areas so scuffed it lightly one dry and took the risk. Everything seems to have adhered well. I'm not actually sure the datasheets are too clear on this. Certainly the DS for Hydrate 80 states it is suitable for coating with a wide range of paints and topcoats. I can't find anything which state Electrox should not be used on top of Hydrate 80. However i have found it doesn't go on as smooth and certainly if you splash a little Hydrate 80 onto painted surfaces then use Electrox, it doesn't adhere to the painted surface at all and can flake off. So i agree, all a bit mis-leading which means i scuff up Hydrate 80 before covering too.
|
|
|
|
jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 689
Club RR Member Number: 121
|
|
|
|
|
Last Edit: Jul 6, 2022 7:43:09 GMT by jmsheahan
|
|
|
|
|
Awesome build, following this with interest!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Love this build, It's going to be stunning when it's finished, Nigel
|
|
BMW E39 525i Sport BMW E46 320d Sport Touring (now sold on.) BMW E30 325 Touring (now sold on.) BMW E30 320 Cabriolet (Project car - currently for sale.)
|
|
|
jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 689
Club RR Member Number: 121
|
|
|
|
|
Last Edit: Nov 1, 2022 16:14:05 GMT by jmsheahan
|
|
jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 689
Club RR Member Number: 121
|
|
Nov 14, 2022 12:48:37 GMT
|
|
|
Last Edit: Nov 14, 2022 12:49:19 GMT by jmsheahan
|
|
glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
|
|
Nov 14, 2022 13:10:11 GMT
|
Looking absolutely fantastic. 👍
I nearly bought a new “Kombi” one back in 1991, but the payments were eye-watering. My brother in law had an A reg panel van from new in ‘83, and by 1990 it was looking pretty scabby. I just couldn’t commit to the outlay on something that looked like it would take me longer to pay for than it was likely to last.
|
|
My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
|
|
jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 689
Club RR Member Number: 121
|
|
Nov 14, 2022 15:33:31 GMT
|
Looking absolutely fantastic. 👍 the payments were eye-watering Thanks! Well, 32 years later the above is still very much true ... Scene tax is real.
|
|
Last Edit: Nov 14, 2022 15:33:59 GMT by jmsheahan
|
|
|