|
|
|
|
|
Any advice from the FORD GUYS on redoing these? I guess a big hammer, Duck Oil and patience. You'll be there for ever if you try a hammer to remove rubber bushes  The metal outer sleeves will be nicely rusted in place too. Either: holesaw the rubber portion out and cut the sleeve with a hacksaw blade, which is properly tedious when you have the whole car to do or press them out like you would a wheel bearing with a long bolt, drive piece and receiving cup   Great advice, thank you. I am going to see if I can get a press, if I do go down this route. Sometimes a 10 mile drive for the right tool is the most sensible thing to do. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Grizz. Polybush Wrexham have an extensive range, they mix and match for kit car builders they will also supply you with a comprehensive list of their "off the shelf" bushes listed by size. Kit car set ups may not be listed on the web site aa long as you know the origin of the components used or have measurements they will be able to assist. That sounds like a good alternative. More learning for me, with the measuring and figuring what it,needs. I do love these specialist places that make life a lot easier. |
| |
|
|
glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,361
Club RR Member Number: 64
|
|
|
|
|
Personally, I’d go for the softest option they can supply. The stiff ones would be rock hard in a full fat Cortina saloon, and will feel like solid mounts in the lightweight kitcar you have. “Comfort” is pretty close to stock stiffness for the original car, so would be pretty good I’d think in the Rocket. Hard bushes and chopped springs on something that’s going to weigh as little when done as this is, will be a recipe for an extremely unforgiving ride; you might as well not bother with any suspension at all. 🤣
It’s also worth remembering that if you stiffen the suspension too much, it’ll just transfer the movement into twisting forces on that very basic chassis, which will in turn move about and put stresses on the tub and everything else.
|
| |
My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 10:03:08 GMT
|
"...would a complete new set of bushes not be a better move in the longer term?..." It's a far, far easier job while you have it in bits than back assembled  Blame Paul Y he left your wallet open |
| |
Last Edit: Aug 27, 2021 10:04:41 GMT by westbay
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 11:11:40 GMT
|
You'll be there for ever if you try a hammer to remove rubber bushes The metal outer sleeves will be nicely rusted in place too. Either: holesaw the rubber portion out and cut the sleeve with a hacksaw blade, which is properly tedious when you have the whole car to do or press them out like you would a wheel bearing with a long bolt, drive piece and receiving cup Great advice, thank you. I am going to see if I can get a press, if I do go down this route. Sometimes a 10 mile drive for the right tool is the most sensible thing to do. That's mostly a generic wheel bearing remover, with a custom turned adapter to fit the Omega wishbone(new, swapping to poly bushes in case you were wondering). I have a press(although it needs attention), but you still need all the cups and drive pieces to use it. So I generally just use the bearing puller in the vice because it's less hassle. I'll lend you the tools or help if you like. I'm in Chatham.... Change all the bushes while it's apart - I've never driven a Cortina that didn't need new axle bushes. |
| |
|
|
Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,951
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 11:13:38 GMT
|
" Blame Paul Y he left your wallet open empty Fixed if for you.... As an ex Ford mechanic who made HUGE FORTUNES (LOL) by replacing VB's on Mk4/5 Cortinas all you need is an air chisel, a 19mm socket (from memory) and a large hammer - 10mins tops and that includes jacking it up... OR.... You could always just stick another chassis under the body and call it done.... I feel as if my Super Power is growing with every post.... P. |
| |
Last Edit: Aug 27, 2021 11:14:39 GMT by Paul Y
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 13:23:37 GMT
|
|
If you are planning to replace rubber with rubber the modern replacements are such poor quality they will probably last less time than good original ones, If you are going all poly then fine but it's going to cost a packet from Polybush.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 13:33:52 GMT
|
If you are planning to replace rubber with rubber the modern replacements are such poor quality they will probably last less time than good original ones, If you are going all poly then fine but it's going to cost a packet from Polybush. I have no idea what cost a packet may mean in the real world. But I do like to fix things once, rather than return repeatedly. Saying hat, this thing will only do low miles, and also will weigh very little compared to a family saloon. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 14:51:22 GMT
|
Personally, I’d go for the softest option they can supply. The stiff ones would be rock hard in a full fat Cortina saloon, and will feel like solid mounts in the lightweight kitcar you have. “Comfort” is pretty close to stock stiffness for the original car, so would be pretty good I’d think in the Rocket. Hard bushes and chopped springs on something that’s going to weigh as little when done as this is, will be a recipe for an extremely unforgiving ride; you might as well not bother with any suspension at all. 🤣 It’s also worth remembering that if you stiffen the suspension too much, it’ll just transfer the movement into twisting forces on that very basic chassis, which will in turn move about and put stresses on the tub and everything else. Good call on softest option. This thing will be light. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 14:51:52 GMT
|
"...would a complete new set of bushes not be a better move in the longer term?..." It's a far, far easier job while you have it in bits than back assembled Blame Paul Y he left your wallet open Agreed |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 14:56:42 GMT
|
Great advice, thank you. I am going to see if I can get a press, if I do go down this route. Sometimes a 10 mile drive for the right tool is the most sensible thing to do. That's mostly a generic wheel bearing remover, with a custom turned adapter to fit the Omega wishbone(new, swapping to poly bushes in case you were wondering). I have a press(although it needs attention), but you still need all the cups and drive pieces to use it. So I generally just use the bearing puller in the vice because it's less hassle. I'll lend you the tools or help if you like. I'm in Chatham.... Change all the bushes while it's apart - I've never driven a Cortina that didn't need new axle bushes. Thank you for the tool offer. That would be really handy. And of course as mentioned before, in case you were bored, kettle is always on here too. I agree with getting things done while it is all exposed. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 14:58:13 GMT
|
" Blame Paul Y he left your wallet open empty Fixed if for you.... As an ex Ford mechanic who made HUGE FORTUNES (LOL) by replacing VB's on Mk4/5 Cortinas all you need is an air chisel, a 19mm socket (from memory) and a large hammer - 10mins tops and that includes jacking it up... OR.... You could always just stick another chassis under the body and call it done.... I feel as if my Super Power is growing with every post.... P. Wallet empty, no money for chassis swaps. I see your super power growing. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 16:51:30 GMT
|
|
Burton's list list of the cortina polybushes (I think they are known as Burton Power now)
|
| |
|
|
mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,063 
Club RR Member Number: 77
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 18:25:09 GMT
|
grizz as others have suggested, it may be best for you to go with the softest poly bush hardness for the Resin Rockit  The mk2 Granada subframe is very similar to that Cortina one, and it made a huge difference on mine changing all the bushes to poly bushes (although I went for Superflex all round on mine) Made a decent difference on a 1500kg vehicle, tightened up the steering and body roll quite a bit. As for the steering joint, I'd possibly just replace the rag joint with one of a similar material instead of a different type of joint or polyurethane You will appreciate some compliance and damping effect that a rubber one will afford
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 19:01:24 GMT
|
Burton's list list of the cortina polybushes (I think they are known as Burton Power now) Excellent. I will get around to this soon enough. Cannot progress once blasting and paint is done. grizz as others have suggested, it may be best for you to go with the softest poly bush hardness for the Resin Rockit The mk2 Granada subframe is very similar to that Cortina one, and it made a huge difference on mine changing all the bushes to poly bushes (although I went for Superflex all round on mine) Made a decent difference on a 1500kg vehicle, tightened up the steering and body roll quite a bit. As for the steering joint, I'd possibly just replace the rag joint with one of a similar material instead of a different type of joint or polyurethane You will appreciate some compliance and damping effect that a rubber one will afford I suspect the car will come in at certainly under 1000kg So normal should be just fine. And rag joint, agreed. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 19:28:45 GMT
|
NOT SO UNPREDICTABLE CHANGE OF DIRECTION.so after quite a bit of thought, and chatting to various people, including those who spend my cash regularly, and a dose of my own opinion and ideas, I decided to see if a £500.00 MX5 Donor could be found. And then ot happened…….. a certain member I have known for 15 years or so, offered me a deal I wanted to, but did not resist. Stored about 4 years in a barn……. Dusty. Complete, except for the catalytic converter…….. And 283 miles from me. Delivery in exchange for a cuppa tea and cookies and an hours chat. So a price was agreed, and two photos came my way. First pic absolutely sold it for me  Second one meant that I could check the MOT history. Slightly better award winning photography.  So I checked the MOT history. Note the low mileage. 68190 miles. Car was registered end of December 2000  A quick search, based on the registration showed it to be a 1600cc engine. .jpg) Delivery has been scheduled for Sunday, given that all the planets align. I am sure those of you in the know will recognise who the seller is, based on the origin of the delivery road trip. Our very own KFW. .jpg) So tomorrow morning I will have to cut down the body table and add wheels to it, to make it mobile as the plan is to park the MX5 under cover. PS. I always wanted a canary yellow car or truck. Wish about to be fulfilled. .
|
| |
Last Edit: Aug 27, 2021 19:33:15 GMT by grizz
|
|
mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,063
Club RR Member Number: 77
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 20:08:02 GMT
|
If the Resin Rockit has no catalyst fitted, it won't need one with the Mazda engine fitted  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 20:26:13 GMT
|
|
It doesen't even list structural rust on the mot pretty rare for a NB nowadays.
I assume the plan is to fit the engine and box complete with all the mazda electrics and loom. Should only take a couple of days!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 20:45:42 GMT
|
If the Resin Rockit has no catalyst fitted, it won't need one with the Mazda engine fitted Yes. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2021 20:47:37 GMT
|
It doesen't even list structural rust on the mot pretty rare for a NB nowadays. I assume the plan is to fit the engine and box complete with all the mazda electrics and loom. Should only take a couple of days! If you check the older history it failed twice on seatbelt anchor point rust. Malkes for interesting reading 😂😂😂😂😂😂 Yes a fast build if you are here to supervise. |
| |
|
|
