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Sept 13, 2021 10:26:20 GMT
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Ref . the exhaust - "...do I replace it with a random piece of pipe or a small resonator box? ... " A piece of pipe is the cheapest, if it's too noisey then go resonator box ... I need to do 100 miles at 70mph and arrive without a headache. Commented on Rods n Sods by @kapri DON'T fully poly bush the back end , something will break as the standard geometry is curse word . It's also the reason the used the 'void' bush to give a degree of compliance ie to stop it breaking. The trick is to replace the void bush with the solid rubber heavy duty estate version . Urethan the rest but adding teh estate bush will make it handle well but not break something .
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Sept 13, 2021 10:36:19 GMT
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"I need to do 100 miles at 70mph and arrive without a headache." errrmmm, it's an open top car - it's an open top kit car ! link
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Last Edit: Sept 13, 2021 10:40:12 GMT by westbay
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Sept 13, 2021 10:56:59 GMT
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Erm, I'm a little lost... are you putting the crusty yellow mazda drive train in the Rockit or sorting the mazda out and using it?
if your putting the Mazda bits in the rockit then build the exhaust to suit the rockit not the Mazda?
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Take the Next slot right coming up on the left.
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Sept 13, 2021 12:31:35 GMT
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For the exhaust it will have to be custom from the downpipe back as the mx5 muffler sits where the fuel tank will be.
To make it more sociable to move around and test I would just bodge a length of pipe in.
Long term it would ne easiest to put a muffler under the passenger seat and exit in front of the rear wheel.
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Sept 13, 2021 13:29:49 GMT
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"I need to do 100 miles at 70mph and arrive without a headache." errrmmm, it's an open top car - it's an open top kit car ! link😂👍
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Sept 13, 2021 13:32:42 GMT
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Erm, I'm a little lost... are you putting the crusty yellow mazda drive train in the Rockit or sorting the mazda out and using it? if your putting the Mazda bits in the rockit then build the exhaust to suit the rockit not the Mazda? Donor. I think kevins (Great meeting you and Mrs S this morning) has clarified below. Or is that above. Engine and gearbox donor. Getting sold as Scrap for the rest. So custom exhaust yes.
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Sept 13, 2021 14:52:13 GMT
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ill just leave this here.. link
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Take the Next slot right coming up on the left.
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Sept 13, 2021 20:07:25 GMT
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So with kevins and MrsS coming over in their MX5 with its fruity Zorst this morning to collect the wind deflector, I thought I would quickly tidy up the carport and chassis. Moved stuff around and got the chassis on a small trolley. Much better. A lot of rain forecast for tomorrow. Probably not getting much done before the weekend.
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Sept 13, 2021 20:29:24 GMT
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It was great to see it close up this morning, shame we didn't have much time due to the climate protestors causing chaos and consequently several tons of polution on the M25.
Quieting the mazda exhaust is on the list (it's a stainless system that seems to be losing some of it's stuffing) after 6 hours in it today both my and Jackie's ears are ringing.
Thinking about the chassis, the subframe rigidly bolts to the chassis so that part is bomb proof, I think the best way to improve the chassis would be to focus on the centre, beef up the diagonals and more rigidly connect them around the gearbox to form a cruciform, many of the best pre and post war vehicles with seperate chassis used this principle.
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Sept 14, 2021 7:22:00 GMT
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It was great to see it close up this morning, shame we didn't have much time due to the climate protestors causing chaos and consequently several tons of polution on the M25. Quieting the mazda exhaust is on the list (it's a stainless system that seems to be losing some of it's stuffing) after 6 hours in it today both my and Jackie's ears are ringing. Thinking about the chassis, the subframe rigidly bolts to the chassis so that part is bomb proof, I think the best way to improve the chassis would be to focus on the centre, beef up the diagonals and more rigidly connect them around the gearbox to form a cruciform, many of the best pre and post war vehicles with seperate chassis used this principle. Always another day to plan for. Noise is a funny thing, sometimes it is good, but often it does have anway of becoming intrusive. Yes, the chassis stiffening etc will happen when I have a bit of time.
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Sept 14, 2021 7:28:52 GMT
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My noght thoughts last night weirdly centred around illusion and practicality. I have the wheels in 15” that I really like the look of, and will probably stay with. 4x100 that will be run on 4x108 to 4x100 adapters and spacers. So the hubs get longer studs to accommodate the extra width, which on basic test fit, puts the rims on the lip of the wheel arches. However, looking at some wheel fitment and illusions, would a 13” or 14” wheel make the car look lower nut the wheel arches much bigger, almost cartoonlike. Plus of course the way it drives and ratios for gearing etc. Am I better off just using a reasonable low profile tyre on these, or do I keep with a more traditional sidewall height? Tyres in the pics below are stretched too, I seem to recall the wheels are 7J wide. SO WE HAVE THE REALITY vs THE DREAMPhotoshopped by mate Fil who fetched it in Scotland for me. If we can get it this low, and a slightly shorter, tilted back screen, I will be super chuffed. Just
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Sept 14, 2021 7:35:37 GMT
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I'd stick with 15's and reasonable sidwalls , it already looks a bit 'under wheeled' ... lowered sits them better in the wheel arch ...
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Sept 14, 2021 8:27:58 GMT
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If you can get it that low then the 15's with low pro tyres would look perfect.
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,063
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Sept 14, 2021 16:52:35 GMT
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If it were me, I'd stick with the 15s, and go up in profile a bit for more arch fill, and sacrifice a bit of the lows. Means tyres are easier to replace, usually cheaper, and will make the drive more compliant with the poly bushes and lowering springs
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Sept 15, 2021 7:37:28 GMT
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I'd stick with 15's and reasonable sidwalls , it already looks a bit 'under wheeled' ... lowered sits them better in the wheel arch ... Agreed, and a balance between sidewall height and aesthetic may be a challenge. If you can get it that low then the 15's with low pro tyres would look perfect. I think that photoshop was quite optimistic in the case of this build, but lets hope…… If it were me, I'd stick with the 15s, and go up in profile a bit for more arch fill, and sacrifice a bit of the lows. Means tyres are easier to replace, usually cheaper, and will make the drive more compliant with the poly bushes and lowering springs Makes sense too, going slightly more mainstream. I actually like sidewall, just look at the S10 where I went up by a ratio to standard. Thanks guys. I suspect rich would agree as well. I really love these wheels, which is why I bought them early on. They may do with cleaning off and repainting in that lovely GOLD from Halfords, which again, is a colour I like because it is a bit oldskool and in yer face. The two tone they are at the moment is great too. Once the spacers and longer studs push them to the edge of the wheel arches it may come together even better. Back to the Suspension bushes. The company whose bushes I previously posted up has already pisssed me off as they do not reply to emails, even a simple request, after I emailed an enquiry on Friday last week. People like that do not deserve my business as they probably see customer service as something other companies do. So kind of back to starting out looking for a supplier who is prepared to deal with someone who is not an F1 team, or weekend warrior racer. I had a suggestion for SuperPro bushes on Rods n Sods and looking for a supplier found someone supplying the brand about 15 miles from here. Comments elsewhere. Go to super pro web site and buy once buy quality, the images should give you an idea of what goes where, all bushes are marked up so you know where they go, ive fitted plenty of these bushes to landrover over the years, very forgiving and nearly impossible to damage when fitting.
if you can't get the rear anti roll bar bushes have someone with a lathe makes them for you. to be honest those ones never gave any problems like the fronts on cortina's. i can honestly say i've never ever had to replace them for an mot and i've had/worked on hundreds of them over time. re the kit you list, it's all pretty self explanatory where they go once you have them in hand and offer them up. also as it'll be a toy not a daily driver i wouldn't worry too much about them wearing prematurely either. neil.Also, last night when I got back from work in Lewisham a parcel was propped up against my kitchen door. My replacement leading trailing arm Needs a good clean, Knotwheel at the ready……. And primer plus Hammerite Probably by the weekend.
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Last Edit: Sept 15, 2021 7:54:35 GMT by grizz
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Sept 15, 2021 9:26:09 GMT
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If the rubber ones are not badly cracked I would re-use everything except the top ones in the axle which as above I would replace with estate ones, it's going to be so light comparred to the cortina that the standard ones are probably a bit on the stiff side even.
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Sept 15, 2021 17:20:34 GMT
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If the rubber ones are not badly cracked I would re-use everything except the top ones in the axle which as above I would replace with estate ones, it's going to be so light comparred to the cortina that the standard ones are probably a bit on the stiff side even. Went against advice…… Have ordered a set of polybushes, rather than original style rubber items. £131.00 delivered. From what I could see, the rubber bushes will total up to a bigger cost than polyurethane. If lucky, delivery on Friday or Saturday. And then the dismantling, step by step and bush replacement one at a time, depending on how easily I get to remove the old ones. Fingers crossed.
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Sept 15, 2021 20:15:34 GMT
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So I had planned on using one of the two arms bought to replace the welded up one. So before work this morning at 07.00 I went down to the garage, pulled out the grinder and knot wheel. Then today when ordering the bushes I realised that there are three different sizes on each end, making for a load of permutations. So when I checked, the one end was 50mm and the new ones were 43mm but the ones fitted were 47mm so I would need to replace both arms in order to keep things uniform Sp after work tonight I had to go do no 2 as well. Not too bad. Then painted them and left them hanging to dry overnight and for the next few days. Followed by mowing the lawn. Lets hope the bushes all come out without giving me a hernia.
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Sept 16, 2021 16:04:48 GMT
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Got this to use from a friend today. Mr Grinder on standby. Bigger question now is how to establish whether this shock is dead. And then, what to replace it with if the spring loses a full coil. Advice as always, appreciated.
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Last Edit: Sept 16, 2021 16:42:27 GMT by grizz
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,361
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Sept 16, 2021 16:18:11 GMT
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Put one end of the shock in the vice, so it’s vertical. Hold the other end and try to pull it out and push it back in again quickly. If there’s a reasonable amount of resistance, then they’re worth refitting providing they compress enough to still work with the shorter spring.
If they have no resistance, or they’re too long, then hang fire on ordering any new shocks until the car is reassembled and at its final running height and weight before you fork out for replacements.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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