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Sept 8, 2021 19:13:21 GMT
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I'd be interested to see how low the chassis sits with no springs or shocks at all - just to see if you can achieve the drop your after. I possibly can see a way to get a free 2-3" drop front and rear by moving a couple of things that I wouldnt post pictures of on the internet if you did it  But I would do it before painting the chassis I'd say it's subtle enough to look original as well It may happen, that I reset the body once the suspension is refitted. Would be nice to get is lower. |
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Sept 8, 2021 19:14:42 GMT
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I know you bought the wire wheels already, but those fibre discs are beasts for stripping without wrecking the metal under. I have used these wheels before on something, cannot recall if it was the C10 chassit or cross member. And yes, they worked well. |
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Sept 8, 2021 19:26:03 GMT
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you can buy the bushes probably not original ford item but can’t find a complete kit
they would have to be ordered separately
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Sept 8, 2021 19:56:40 GMT
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you can buy the bushes probably not original ford item but can’t find a complete kit they would have to be ordered separately And therein lies the rub. Hassle factor x product = cost (not price) And in the Poly Bushes Quick click x 3 product bundle = cost (not price) So the Poly bushes will total up to £200.00 for the lot afaik. Fixed once, it will be future proofed as well in case power does increase. 😈🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁 |
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Sept 8, 2021 20:00:57 GMT
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you can buy the bushes probably not original ford item but can’t find a complete kit they would have to be ordered separately And therein lies the rub. Hassle factor x product = cost (not price) And in the Poly Bushes Quick click x 3 product bundle = cost (not price) So the Poly bushes will total up to £200.00 for the lot afaik. Fixed once, it will be future proofed as well in case when power does increase. 😈🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁 Fixed that for you  |
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,063 
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Sept 8, 2021 20:18:15 GMT
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Happy to help out with making up and routing brake pipes in kunifer instead of horrid copper for you when the time/need arises grizz  And also with several poly bushes, they are in 2 pieces to ease fitment, instead of one piece and a swine to squeeze in  |
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Sept 8, 2021 20:32:47 GMT
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Happy to help out with making up and routing brake pipes in kunifer instead of horrid copper for you when the time/need arises grizz And also with several poly bushes, they are in 2 pieces to ease fitment, instead of one piece and a swine to squeeze in 45 miles for you to eat some South African style BBQ ?? I would absolutely accept help/guidance (always happy to do the work myself with expert supervision too) on the brake lines, as the old were both broken and clearly not at all fit for purpose. Kunifer ?? I guess its an alloy of some sensible sort ?? I am going to message paulf to see if he still has his press that I used for the Blazer bushes before. I also have a “Void Bush tool” sent to me by a stranger to use. |
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Sept 8, 2021 20:35:33 GMT
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And therein lies the rub. Hassle factor x product = cost (not price) And in the Poly Bushes Quick click x 3 product bundle = cost (not price) So the Poly bushes will total up to £200.00 for the lot afaik. Fixed once, it will be future proofed as well in case when power does increase. 😈🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁🏁 Fixed that for you Pleased to see you saw through my limp attempt at misdirection. |
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,063
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Sept 8, 2021 20:38:22 GMT
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45 miles isn't that far. And I'm sure it will be worth it for the food I'm always grateful for food, as can be seen by my godly stature of late Kunifer is also known as cupro nickel. Its a copper mix, but tougher than just copper, and doesn't work harden like copper does Its also very satisfying to work with and getting it bent to just the right shape as well. Although not so good on the thumbs and fingers for forming it... |
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Sept 8, 2021 20:48:23 GMT
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45 miles isn't that far. And I'm sure it will be worth it for the food I'm always grateful for food, as can be seen by my godly stature of late Kunifer is also known as cupro nickel. Its a copper mix, but tougher than just copper, and doesn't work harden like copper does Its also very satisfying to work with and getting it bent to just the right shape as well. Although not so good on the thumbs and fingers for forming it... Too long ago, but that may be what I used for the C10 brake lines years ago. I may still have a bit of it in the garage too, quite a large diameter, not sure how long, but it could work for the fuel line. I am not sure what it was, but mate Martin suggested I use some modern material for the fuel line and specific couplers that do not react to modern fuels. Food is an African thing. Had to go look at what is in the garage. Fail.  Unless it can stand in as a fuel line. |
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Last Edit: Sept 8, 2021 21:03:17 GMT by grizz
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Sept 8, 2021 21:15:41 GMT
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Kunifer is also known as cupro nickel. Its a copper mix, but tougher than just copper, and doesn't work harden like copper does Its also very satisfying to work with and getting it bent to just the right shape as well. Although not so good on the thumbs and fingers for forming it... Yeah, its completely different from copper, but because people here are not familiar with it, they think it is. Which has racing tech guys freaking out, with horror stories of work hardening, etc. So I bought the Kunifer flairing tools, and use them on regular galvanised steel lines. As far as the poly bushes in the suspension. They may give a harsher ride, but I wouldnt worry about it. Its not like this is going to be some plush wallowy luxury ride...  |
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Sept 8, 2021 21:34:24 GMT
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So during the late afternoon Nigel Alpina99 popped in, as you do, from Southampton (well nearby it) He came up to visit and to drop off the carrier for the block and tackle he offered me for the carport, and to use when the MX5 engine ends up being torn from the canary.   We spent some great time together, mostly sitting chatting down at the carport which proved to be a great reception area, which still would not have been enough, had we been given 10 hours, discussing all sorts of things, from life and death to Spain, America, Karma and being kind to others. Eventually he had to leave on his trip home to Mrs Alpina99 and I went out to inspect his current new to him, whip, an E39 BMW or as he explained to me, a 5 series. As I am not good with this numbered car thing. As a retired prison officer of 30 years, he certainly makes the car look like a 3 series. A few subtle upgrades make it just right. .jpg) I have to say, I was totally smitten with the wheels, and had we had more time, I would have wanted to try them on the S10 truck.  After work, I went down to carry on with cleaning the front subframe and suspension. Again, I did not clean the springs or shock absorbers as they will be replaced. It took a long time too, finishing what I had not managed to complete this morning, followed by flipping it over and starting on all the under side and invisible paint. Hell, I hated this job. Top side eventually done. .jpg) Flipped over .jpg) Before  After  And at 7.00pm tonight, thankfully Sally had come around and cooked dinner, allowing me to finish. I started the compressor up and used the blower nozzle to really blow all the scraped paint and rust and dust out of all the nooks and crannies. .jpg) Happy with that finish. Paint next. |
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Last Edit: Sept 8, 2021 21:39:02 GMT by grizz
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Sept 8, 2021 21:40:25 GMT
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Making good progress
A minor correction though, kunifer (and steel) does work harden just not as quickly as copper, they all need supporting properly.
There is a lot of misunderstanding around copper, if you drop the stress to a low level (ie clip it regularly) kunifer and steel will never work harden, this never happens in copper it will always eventually harden to the point it becomes brittle, this may be 10,000 years if it is clipped to the point it doesent vibrate though so in reality much the same result.
Clearly kunifer is a preferrable and more forgiving material but I wouldn't rush out to change a properly installed copper line either.
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Last Edit: Sept 8, 2021 21:43:44 GMT by kevins
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Sept 8, 2021 21:57:14 GMT
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Making good progress A minor correction though, kunifer (and steel) does work harden just not as quickly as copper, they all need supporting properly. There is a lot of misunderstanding around copper, if you drop the stress to a low level (ie clip it regularly) kunifer and steel will never work harden, this never happens in copper it will always eventually harden to the point it becomes brittle, this may be 10,000 years if it is clipped to the point it doesent vibrate though so in reality much the same result. Clearly kunifer is a preferrable and more forgiving material but I wouldn't rush out to change a properly installed copper line either. Yeah, everything work hardens ( any metal that you can build stuff out of, that I know of, anyway). But for the sake of easy conversation, we kind of divide it into metals that are not likely to fail from work hardening and those that might. And even then, like in the case of copper, some racing organisations at some point (Dutch NAV for example ) recommended that all production car based racers had their brakelines changed to copper. ( after some brake failures due to rusted brakelines ) I did that, those lines were on my car for at least 25 years, until I went back to steel ( for the reasons I mentioned, not because there were any problems...) And that was OK too. After a quarter of a century I got my moneys worth out of them... And because of more experience and better tools, I was able to do a much nicer job. |
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,361
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Sept 8, 2021 22:25:27 GMT
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Those subframes have come up very well. 👍
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Facebook just reminded me this morning. It was a year ago that mate Fil collected this “car” for me in Scotland. So Bill shot over to the body shop where the Rezin Rockit was stored along with mate Gordon  Finding the Eagle in the back of the yard.  Lots of green and garden     Moving it included a dead lift by Bill and Gordon to get it away from the wall.  Gordon Man-Legend  Car ready   |
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Last Edit: Sept 9, 2021 8:20:00 GMT by grizz
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Sept 9, 2021 12:02:40 GMT
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It was great meeting up with you yesterday mate,
Likewise I thoroughly enjoyed our chat,
Nigel
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BMW E39 525i Sport
BMW E46 320d Sport Touring (now sold on.)
BMW E30 325 Touring (now sold on.)
BMW E30 320 Cabriolet (Project car - currently for sale.)
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bricol
Part of things
Posts: 290
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Sept 9, 2021 16:15:27 GMT
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Can't beat pulling knot wheel threads out of your arm. Aldi ones, as being a good price, seem to resist driving bits of wire deep into body parts rather well. I tend to buy a few each time they are on special. |
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bricol
Part of things
Posts: 290
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Sept 9, 2021 16:20:11 GMT
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Making good progress A minor correction though, kunifer (and steel) does work harden just not as quickly as copper, they all need supporting properly. There is a lot of misunderstanding around copper, if you drop the stress to a low level (ie clip it regularly) kunifer and steel will never work harden, this never happens in copper it will always eventually harden to the point it becomes brittle, this may be 10,000 years if it is clipped to the point it doesent vibrate though so in reality much the same result. Clearly kunifer is a preferrable and more forgiving material but I wouldn't rush out to change a properly installed copper line either. Only time I've had a copper line fail in the 35 yrs I've been playing with cars was when it became a structural component between the side panel on a Lotus 7 lookalike and the suspension mount. Had a kunifer one bust on a second hand Omega - the one that crosses the rear trailing arm - wasn't aware it wasn't clipped in until the pedal noticeably dropped and I heard a "pop" under braking . . . being on a suspension component, it obviously got a serious working out. What is worrying is seeing how other people secure pipes on kit cars, or when they can't be bothered to properly route replacement lines on production cars, or replace the clips they broke getting the old lines off. |
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bricol
Part of things
Posts: 290
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Sept 9, 2021 16:24:57 GMT
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I know you bought the wire wheels already, but those fibre discs are beasts for stripping without wrecking the metal under. I really wish I'd found them earlier - don't polish the metal like cup brushes do, making you think you've removed the rust, when all you've done is shone it up. I found a local guy doing blasting - rather than spend a lot of time, wearing out discs, wheels, grinders, my arms, eyes, and the neighbours tolerance with the noisy twast next-door, I just dumped stuff with him with a wide time scale to do it . . . a few quid and a week or so later, I had clean components. He did my Alfa sub-frame - quoted me 50 quid beforehand - when I went to collect it, he was worried he had gone too high, as it took him minutes to do - I pointed out if I did it, it would have taken hours, curse word all around me off, and I still wouldn't have done it as well - 50 quid was a bargain I was happy with. The blasted finish is perfect of application of epoxy primers too. |
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