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Aug 16, 2021 13:40:37 GMT
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You can get caps for jerrycans that have outlet pipes built in. Failing that, it would be a simple matter to add outlet and return pipework to one once you knew how you were going to mount it. Whatever you do, don’t buy any jerrycans though. If you want one I have one here you are welcome to. Thanks Glen I seem to already be off the jerry cans. Mainly due to wantong a simple, clean profile and more importantly a low COG makes sense. |
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Aug 16, 2021 13:42:18 GMT
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Nice work , we were very close Saturday We’ve put an offer on a house not far away fingers crossed for Monday’s call Great work on the rocket 👍 Good luck with this, our recent experience(s) suggest buying a house isn't so easy anymore! Yup. craigrk has been having real problems with their purchase. And that is a no chain, cash deal. But seller has a friend whispering stuff into her ears. |
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Aug 16, 2021 13:43:27 GMT
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My only concern with positioning the 'jerry can' fuel cell on the back is if some numpty runs into the back of the car, as you've already said you want this as low as possible which probably/possibly makes it the first point of contact above your bumper line ... Nice to see progress ! Please don't take this as a 'negative' comment ...  Not seen as negative. Already come to my senses somewhat. |
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Aug 16, 2021 13:46:28 GMT
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The standard fuel tank looks a bit of death trap anyway with the back of the tank and filer right at the very rear. A discovery 1 or range rover classic tank looks a similar shape but with the filler on the side if you get a V8 injection petrol one it comes with the fuel pump swirl pot etc already inside which would work with the MX5 injection system. If you were to use a jerry can you would need to fit a swirl pot with a lift pump from the jerrry can filling it and a return line to the jerry can. You see….. This is what makes this place great. The shared knowlege and advice. Thanks for your input. I am sure I will find something that works just right. |
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Aug 16, 2021 13:48:05 GMT
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Its amazing what you find in the shed of doom. When moving plop carefully acquired future goodness to get to the roll hoop I came across an old fuel cell which I had forgotten I had squirrelled away. Any use? From memory it is 15 gallons has a sump with -8 an lines. Will go and have a measure later to get some size. P.  Thanks Paul. Lets see how it unfolds and if it works. Am I possibly still seeing you bank holiday Monday? |
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Aug 16, 2021 13:55:30 GMT
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Progress Grizz! That chassis does look like the agricultural horribleness I was expecting with the torsional rigidity of a slice of bread   However the good news is the rear Axle appears to be a Cortina Atlas with 4 link built in. few options for you to chew over... check to see if the wheelbase of a Lotus 7 type kit car is similar to that of the Rezin Rockit (The Ron Champion "build your own kitcar" locost chassis sometimes come up cheap) - with a bit of modification, you could use the Axle. The front uprights used in a locost are Cortina ones anyway - which you have). you'll end up with a chassis that will be lighter and stiffer than the current one and handle well. If you want to keep with the existing chassis & improve it, then id get it grit / shot blasted before you start any repairs. The cash you spend at the blasters will be insignificant compared to the amount of wire knotwheels, electricity, dust masks, mess, black snot (see dust masks) & the opportunity to pull wires from the knot wheel from yourself on a regular basis. whichever way you decide to go about it this thread is firmly bookmarked. Hey Paul Big grin here. Thanks for taking the time to write up and make suggestions. My fantasy budget for this, including forst tank of fuel and MOT pass is not a penny over £2500.00 of which amazingly the first £1000.00 is what you see on the axles stands right now. One needs to draw a line somewhere, or else I could have Bad Chad build me a motor (thats said tongue firmly in cheek) or order a burnout machine from a reputable builder etc. I will work with what I have. And it will not be the easiest way but hopefully will work out |
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Aug 16, 2021 20:22:48 GMT
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After work I went to the garage to just unwind a bit. Took a sharpened hatchet. Result. .HEIC) Only a start, some very sticky grey paint, and Red oxide Happy with every bit of progress. .HEIC) . |
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Gosh. There's nothing left of the Craisin Crockett!
Looks simple enough to clean up and make good though.
Phil
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Aug 17, 2021 17:17:27 GMT
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Gosh. There's nothing left of the Craisin Crockett! Looks simple enough to clean up and make good though. Phil Just the skin removed. Like an anorexic in a large wooly jumper, take it off, and there is not much left. I like cleaning stuff up. Then one can see what you have to work with, and what to address first. |
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Aug 18, 2021 19:48:55 GMT
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Popped over to see Kevin Kelly this afternoon, he lives about 600 meters from me in a straight line, but 1km by road. His Rolls Royce based Deusenberg replica is painted, body taken off one more time. .HEIC) The main reason I popped over was to pick Kevin’s brain on manageing the chassis steel I had started to strip back. He has some queens awards for engineering etc, used work in the marine environment I really did not plan on doing much work on the chassis, rather wanting it up and running. But typically Paul Y insisted I media blast the chassis before painting it all, including the rear axle and front crossmember etc. Anyway, Kevin suggested, based on my basic needs that I clean it up as well as I wanted, and then took me to his shed, which is a rather large brick building and pulled this tin of grey primer off the shelf. Suggesting I paint it with the primer, followed by spraying or brushing underseal ( though PaulY suggested chassis black) over it once dried I asked what I could pay him for it, and his reply was “It’s been there a very log time, do me a favour and use it” I do not know the details of the paint, so if anyone knows more, please say your piece right here. .HEIC) I came home for another online meeting from 3-4 then went out to the garage. Spent about 30 minutes scraping a bit of the front bumper, then Sally got home and I cooked us a quick Rump, mushrooms and onions plus spicy rice. Then she went home as she is up at 4.00am every day to get to work and start at 06.00 Factory work certainly sucks. |
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Last Edit: Aug 18, 2021 19:51:59 GMT by grizz
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Don't think there is a "magic solution" to rust , basically , hard work at the prep stage to give the lasting result ... 200:026:0651 is an "Industrial Zinc Phosphate " primer 200:026, 0651 = Light Grey ... so approriate PPI  |
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Last Edit: Aug 19, 2021 7:07:26 GMT by westbay
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Don't think there is a "magic solution" to rust , basically , hard work at the prep stage to give the lasting result ... 200:026:0651 is an "Industrial Zinc Phosphate " primer 200:026, 0651 = Light Grey ... so approriate PPI Serious question. What is appropriate PP in this case? Gloves and a disposable brush ? |
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Last Edit: Aug 19, 2021 7:46:05 GMT by grizz
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yes,basically and face mask, oh, and no flip flops ! try not to get it on exposed skin ! |
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Last Edit: Aug 19, 2021 7:52:19 GMT by westbay
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Aug 20, 2021 20:57:54 GMT
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yes,basically and face mask, oh, and no flip flops ! try not to get it on exposed skin ! Sounds a lot like the stuff I need to pay heed to. Had Paul Y here tonight after work……. And as you know by now, if Paul calls, your life will never be the same. Off to craigrk for the day tomorrow morning early, Hopefully we will get Lil his 47 Chevy Fleetline going and ready to roll onto a transporter. Also his ride on mower. Followed by some construction of roofing structures for his rather large motorbike shed. |
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Aug 22, 2021 19:25:06 GMT
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So Paul Y came and spent a couple of hours, for a change, not freezing his nuts off, though there is still time. Nice to chat, chew the fat and plan the future and world domination. One of the things he had done in his usual style, was to convince me that media blasting would be an improved method vs the hatchet job I was doing. Buggerrr. Really had not planned that complexity or level of detail, though I will not regret it in the long run. So Paul convinced me to order 125kg of glass blasting media as he had used when doing Woody, his 66 C10’s chassis. .jpg) So when Paul arrived in the Super Fiesta (tm) he came bearing gifts. A plastic Jeep petrol tank, along with its steel cover. Needs a “Tophat” whatever that constitutes. So rather than lug it down to the garage, the wheelbarrow came in useful to Pauls amusement , and quick pics. .jpg) .jpg) Pauls highly modified and fine tuned blasting pot and accessories. .HEIC) While I was out at craigrk ‘s place my media got delivered. And Sally moved the 25kg parcels down to the garage and out of the rain. .HEIC) When I got home, I just moved them deeper under the carport. Bloody heavy @ 25kg each. |
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Last Edit: Aug 22, 2021 19:26:36 GMT by grizz
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Aug 22, 2021 21:10:02 GMT
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No bootfair today. An incredible rainstorm at 04.30 then left us sleeping late to 7.30 The buyer for the field bike arrived at 11.30 and was gone by 12.00, happy. Sally and I had lunch around 13.00 and I really struggled to get out the house to go start the final strip down phase of the Rezin Rockit. So by 3.30 I crawled down to the shop, followed by sally with her embroidery. Just to keep an eye on my, in case an ambulance was needed. Got started. One loose nut. .HEIC) .HEIC) .HEIC) .HEIC) .HEIC) .HEIC) .HEIC) And close shop. .HEIC) Next job will be next Sunday as Saturday is bathroom refurb day at Sallys house. Sunday, weather permitting I need to create a catch ent area for the blast media to land and be collected. First the frame, then the front and rear ends. Weekend over. Thanks for checking in. |
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Last Edit: Aug 22, 2021 21:15:53 GMT by grizz
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,361
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Aug 22, 2021 21:31:56 GMT
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Are you going to be doing any cutting/modifying of the chassis to achieve your desired running height? If so, it might be worth doing it before you get carried away with the blasting and painting.
Personally, if I were going to be using that frame, I’d be adding some triangular gussets and braces to stiffen it up while everything is so accessible.
Anyway, great work so far. Just goes to show how sound the base vehicle was under all the grot and filth. 👍😃
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Making good progress, make sure you seal the breather on the axle before you go near it with a sand blaster though.
One way to really stiffen the front up and lower it at the same time would be to weld the subframe in.
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spacekadett
Part of things
F*cking take that Hans Brrix!!
Posts: 838
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Aug 23, 2021 22:49:20 GMT
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Like glenanderson says I’d consider adding some gussets to the front end, especially having seen the Eagle chassis my neighbour had. That had some added as the front kick up one side had tweaked after a bump.
Also while I think of it re the ‘rag joint’ or steering coupling. On Cortinas, Escorts etc they tend to be replaced as an assembly rather than just replacing the rubber. That said, Edd ( bodieanddoyle ) fitted a polyurethane one to his 2002, and a friend of ours found it was spot on to replace the rubber in the coupling on his Capri. Also, and I will say they may well be a different length, the coupling looks similar to the one used on mk3 / smiley face Transits. Looks to have the same fittings but has a UJ rather than a rubber coupling. Might be worth a look 🙂
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Mechanic's rule #1... If the car works, anything left on the floor after you finished wasn't needed in the first place  |
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If I could get away with it ( depending on the rules in your neck of the woods ) I'd drop the middle part of the chassis ( or raise the front & rear ) to get some more clearance for lowered suspension. For stiffness, and it looks like it really needs it , I'd add a 8 point cage.  |
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