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Nov 11, 2020 10:21:52 GMT
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Just refresh my memory ... what is the orientation of the pinto sump in the Rockit ? i.e is it in front of the crossmember or behind it ? what is the orientation of the mx5 engine i.e in front of crossmember or behind ? If the same then check position of gear stick is the mx5 same, longer or shorter in cab area? this will impact engine mounts size / position etc. If all that is somewhere near 'just' make some mounts and whack it in !  Main thing is don't over think the task , tackle it in managable chunks ... |
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Last Edit: Nov 11, 2020 11:06:42 GMT by westbay
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Nov 11, 2020 13:30:30 GMT
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There is a plate you can buy to bolt on the inlet side that allows you to use the ford manifold and carb. However why move into the past when it will work with an Mx5 loom. One of the lads here had a mx5 sans all bodywork etc running. They are building a sub £1000 race car. Cant remember the name. Seems crazy to not just swap it all in and get power, economy and a decent dash? Is it this one? Yes! Thank you. Its a fun build actually. The lads remind me of pale Nac Mac Feegle's. Here's a link to the video(s) Grizz. Well worth the watch for you if mx5 is in the build. |
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Last Edit: Nov 11, 2020 13:33:36 GMT by Deleted
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ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,127
Club RR Member Number: 134
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Nov 11, 2020 13:53:17 GMT
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The lads remind me of pale Nac Mac Feegle's. I have absolutely been called worse  Grizz, after a few nights I have pondered the MX5 source on this Now, the biggest headache you wont have is engine mounts. Sheet steel, weld, boom. They wont be a trauma. The gearbox to diff mount thing will be tricky, as to shorten it will be in a horror story of props AND that damned torque bar that mates the box and diff..... So don't. Its a jeep. I reckon if you stripped the axle out the back and the engine out the Jago, then line up that MX5 drivetrain with the rear wheels centred, utilise the whole rear subframe, and then if the engine needs to hang further forward or rearward, just land it and weld it in where it sits. As long as the rear subframe is in and the rest CAN be located, go with that. |
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Frankenhealey
Club Retro Rides Member
And I looked, and behold, a pale horse! And its rider's name was Death
Posts: 3,881
Club RR Member Number: 15
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Nov 11, 2020 14:01:39 GMT
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Its a fun build actually. The lads remind me of pale Nac Mac Feegle's. Crivens! |
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Tales of the Volcano Lair hereFrankenBug - Vulcan Power hereThe Frankenhealey here |
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,998
Club RR Member Number: 35
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Nov 11, 2020 15:06:37 GMT
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Mx5 swaps are getting pretty common. Seth fitted one in his wife’s herald years back with SU carbs and a mega jolt to handle the sparks.
If you get a mk1 or earlier mk2 loom, you won’t have an immobiliser to deal with (although you might want that extra security).
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Nov 11, 2020 15:33:54 GMT
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A rear engine mount on the mx5 is not too difficult, this is how I will be doing the minor conversion I am doing.  |
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You can weld so should be able to get the engine in and mounted easily enough, it may even drop on the existing crossmember, they are similar. Exhaust should be easy enough to make up as well. You will also need a custom propshaft. Next thing is how are you going to fuel it, if keeping injection you will need a high pressure feed, either a tank off something like a disco or a swirl pot and pump fed from your existing tank, it will also need a return. Then there is the wiring, theres plenty of info on kit car sites about either stripping out the mazda loom or making / buying a new one (you could use the mazda loom in it's entirity if you use the mazda switches and cluster then just change the light and wipers connectors), as well as the wiring you will need all the sensors and possibly the encoded key off the doner. Another option would be a carb and something like megajolt to drive the ignition, again loads of info out there on this. Agreed, I think the whole thing just needs a bit of logical, slow and thought through thinking. Making, modding mounts should be do-able. Exhaust I would look forward to. I wish I still had the 2.25 inch cutout valve I used to have, I cannot remember if I gave it away or sold it years ago, but it would be cool to be able to add it into the system for those times one wants to be a real  or is that fox picture, and be antisocial. Prop shaft will be a paid for, pro job, unless one gets stupidly lucky. I am happy to go either route for the suck bang blow, There is a plate you can buy to bolt on the inlet side that allows you to use the ford manifold and carb. However why move into the past when it will work with an Mx5 loom. One of the lads here had a mx5 sans all bodywork etc running. They are building a sub £1000 race car. Cant remember the name. Seems crazy to not just swap it all in and get power, economy and a decent dash? There is not engine, engine parts etc, so. It would be all Mazda I like te whole Locost idea. There is a plate you can buy to bolt on the inlet side that allows you to use the ford manifold and carb. However why move into the past when it will work with an Mx5 loom. One of the lads here had a mx5 sans all bodywork etc running. They are building a sub £1000 race car. Cant remember the name. Seems crazy to not just swap it all in and get power, economy and a decent dash? Is it this one? Thanks mate. |
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Just refresh my memory ... what is the orientation of the pinto sump in the Rockit ? i.e is it in front of the crossmember or behind it ? what is the orientation of the mx5 engine i.e in front of crossmember or behind ? If the same then check position of gear stick is the mx5 same, longer or shorter in cab area? this will impact engine mounts size / position etc. If all that is somewhere near 'just' make some mounts and whack it in ! Main thing is don't over think the task , tackle it in managable chunks ... I have no idea regarding the Ford bits. It seems to be a long motor and trans, I wonder if the gearstick wont be further back. And of course there is no radiator and fan with the bits that have been put my way. I like the idea of making up bits to make it fit. Along with the whole lowering thing. |
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Last Edit: Nov 12, 2020 8:44:01 GMT by grizz
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Yes! Thank you. Its a fun build actually. The lads remind me of pale Nac Mac Feegle's. Here's a link to the video(s) Grizz. Well worth the watch for you if mx5 is in the build. FUN FUN FUN...... Sounds like you get the drift. |
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The lads remind me of pale Nac Mac Feegle's. I have absolutely been called worse Grizz, after a few nights I have pondered the MX5 source on this Now, the biggest headache you wont have is engine mounts. Sheet steel, weld, boom. They wont be a trauma. The gearbox to diff mount thing will be tricky, as to shorten it will be in a horror story of props AND that damned torque bar that mates the box and diff..... So don't. Its a jeep. I reckon if you stripped the axle out the back and the engine out the Jago, then line up that MX5 drivetrain with the rear wheels centred, utilise the whole rear subframe, and then if the engine needs to hang further forward or rearward, just land it and weld it in where it sits. As long as the rear subframe is in and the rest CAN be located, go with that. Your comment on making mounts - Agreed totally mate. As for the rest of your post, especially the last two lines/paragraphs........ Completely lost. What engine and axle, out of what Jago ? MX5 Drivetrain at this point constitutes engine and gearbox. No subframe, I assume you mean the MX5 donors, that is in the V8 Beetle-Rod that Darren is building. Hope my questions make sense. |
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Mx5 swaps are getting pretty common. Seth fitted one in his wife’s herald years back with SU carbs and a mega jolt to handle the sparks. If you get a mk1 or earlier mk2 loom, you won’t have an immobiliser to deal with (although you might want that extra security). I agree, MX5 is a great go to for engine swaps. I have no idea yet what will land on my drive as far as electrics are concerned. Security..... pahhhh. I just want it to start up, battery to charge, and lights to work. As basic as me. |
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A rear engine mount on the mx5 is not too difficult, this is how I will be doing the minor conversion I am doing. NICE !!! I am sure all these challenges will come up as we get to them. |
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The pinto is about the same length as the Mazda engine, from the pics you have posted I can't see any difficulty fitting the engine, for the radiator and fan the obvious answer is to use all the MX5 parts, they are cheap new and there are plenty of secondhand parts around too. If the pinto had a type 9 trans (I think the earlier Cortina 4 speed was very similar) the mazda gearstick will be a bout 4" further back, on a mk1 it is easy to move forward but I think yours is a mk 2 with the shifter housing cast into the trans tailshaft, it would work fine with the lever cranked forward as in the reliant SS1 though.
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,055 
Club RR Member Number: 77
Member is Online
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Nov 12, 2020 11:58:37 GMT
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I have also heard that the output shaft for the Mazda gearbox is the same as Ford! So a Cortina propshaft would be a good starting point for that possibly  |
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Nov 12, 2020 12:50:27 GMT
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Been chatting to Tony westbay this morning between getting the day job done.  If your mx% engine looks like this it should fit , only question is distance of gearstick from engine..... ...as you can see this engine has rear sump (what you want) but shortening gear linkage is going to be difficult ... as it's all 'internal' i.e no external rods to shorten ... .  The motor in Darrens container is this one.  I think it has the sump orientation as needed. Gear stick will be where it is. And I suspect that if needed, hole can be moved. Fingers crossed. Again. |
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ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,127
Club RR Member Number: 134
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Nov 12, 2020 13:39:42 GMT
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I have absolutely been called worse Grizz, after a few nights I have pondered the MX5 source on this Now, the biggest headache you wont have is engine mounts. Sheet steel, weld, boom. They wont be a trauma. The gearbox to diff mount thing will be tricky, as to shorten it will be in a horror story of props AND that damned torque bar that mates the box and diff..... So don't. Its a jeep. I reckon if you stripped the axle out the back and the engine out the Jago, then line up that MX5 drivetrain with the rear wheels centred, utilise the whole rear subframe, and then if the engine needs to hang further forward or rearward, just land it and weld it in where it sits. As long as the rear subframe is in and the rest CAN be located, go with that. Your comment on making mounts - Agreed totally mate. As for the rest of your post, especially the last two lines/paragraphs........ Completely lost. What engine and axle, out of what Jago ? MX5 Drivetrain at this point constitutes engine and gearbox. No subframe, I assume you mean the MX5 donors, that is in the V8 Beetle-Rod that Darren is building. Hope my questions make sense. OK, I've ranted off and lost you. I do that, apologies. So my idea for the powerplant swap is this. Take the rear axle out the Rezin rocket, the full live axle and prop. Ooot. Then, get an MX5 subframe. Bolt it up to the original ladder chassis  All you need to find are 2 mounting points for the spring / sock assemblies. That leaves you with a full MX5 rear driveline. With that, you can now bolt up this:  The propshaft AND the torque bar that hangs the front of the diff and the rear of the gearbox together. The last thing you would need to consider would be where to hang the 2 engine mounts up the front. Probably off the front MX5 subframe, which if bolted to the ladder chassis would give you suspension up front too.  The more I type, the more I realise I'm talking about rebodying this onto an MX5 really.... |
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Nov 12, 2020 14:32:58 GMT
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Would all be 4x100 as well then  |
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Frankenhealey
Club Retro Rides Member
And I looked, and behold, a pale horse! And its rider's name was Death
Posts: 3,881
Club RR Member Number: 15
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Nov 12, 2020 15:13:00 GMT
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I likes Grizz's threads 'cos they give me ideas Is this an NA or NB rear subframe please ? |
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Tales of the Volcano Lair hereFrankenBug - Vulcan Power hereThe Frankenhealey here |
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ToolsnTrack
Posted a lot
Homebrew Raconteur
Posts: 4,127
Club RR Member Number: 134
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Nov 12, 2020 15:31:04 GMT
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I likes Grizz's threads 'cos they give me ideas Is this an NA or NB rear subframe please ? Attaboy I cannot comment, it was a google image search. What I can say is it resembles an NB a lot, as the one I dismantled was NB. Also, the diff in that picture is WRECKED, so avoid any that look like that. If you want lots of up close shots of a NB subframe our playlist has MANY angles of how they mate up and get disassembled. www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLfokIQ_fMTx8MVSqC0N8tvZE2F6MmRWku |
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joeytalent
Part of things
ITB Everything.
Posts: 440
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Nov 12, 2020 16:13:21 GMT
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I likes Grizz's threads 'cos they give me ideas Is this an NA or NB rear subframe please ? They're both very similar, I bet you could use either. Coilovers were definitely swappable between them from what I remember with mine. |
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