jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,209 
|
|
Jan 25, 2022 13:36:18 GMT
|
Having actually seen it, I think the screen is already about the right size to match the proportions of the car. Cutting off the redundant brackets is easier to do, and will remove most of the fell off a passing Land Rover look. One more thing to consider is that the sides aren't parallel, so the more you cut it down, the shorter the top rail will become and eventually won't fit without considerable extra work. It's also doable at any point up to and even after getting the car on the road, whereas you can't actually drive the thing at the moment because of a lack of steering, wiring, plumbing, fuel etc. ^^^^^^^^ This for me, also if you cut down the screen then the seat back & roll bar will be higher than the screen, look a bit odd I.M.O. All the options have pros & cons, the end of the day it's really down to what you want. I think Nicks last point is a very good one, leave it till later, actually driving the car and looking at it complete may change your opinion. Be a lot easier to chop it then than go back to original |
| |
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
|
|
|
|
glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,348
Club RR Member Number: 64
Member is Online
|
|
Jan 25, 2022 14:53:45 GMT
|
The new screens for my Austin cost me £100 each, cash. Personally, I’d leave it the stock height and as a two piece, because the Land-Rover parts places have screen panels cheaper than anywhere else, and they come properly marked. linkyBut I do understand why you are thinking about it while doing the other modifications to the frame to make it fit. Remember, I have that series 3 Land-Rover frame you gave me last year, which could donate its glass if you needed it. The profile sections on the frame itself are different, so it would be no good to use for chopping up to extend your top frame rail though. Like nickwheeler says, stick the screen frame on the mental back burner for a short while, and concentrate on the other stuff. A solution will present itself soon enough. |
| |
My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2022 15:19:40 GMT
|
|
Looks good at 50mm to me , but do you have a soft/hard top for it ? will that need altering to ?
I think if you go to low it wont sit with size of the rest of the body
|
| |
Play'in round with an old Datsun & a Ford COE
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2022 16:23:04 GMT
|
A photoshop of the 50mm  Worth my time, thinking about it. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2022 16:25:49 GMT
|
|
To just throw a spanner in the works and give you more to do, I'd go for a 60mm chop, then lay the screen back a bit until the top is about the same height as it would be if you did a 100mm chop.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2022 17:34:09 GMT
|
|
Grizz,
You've probably thought of this and researched it yourself in an earlier entry which I've missed (easy to do in a thread like this that gets updated so regularly due to your rapid progress).
Now you have decided on seats, have you checked where the top bar of the windscreen will be in relation to your eye level when sitting in the driver's seat?
I had a beach buggy a while ago with a chopped screen. The seats were already bolted to the floorpan, so no way they could be lowered and the top rail of the 'screen was right in my eye line when driving. It was really annoying and uncomfortable having to duck your head down or tilt it to one side to see under the windscreen frame when driving. It wound me up so much I sold the buggy after a couple of months as that ruined the pleasure of driving it.
|
| |
Currently driving a '68 Karmann Ghia as my daily. Don't ask about previous cars - there have been way too many and I stopped counting at 160!
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2022 18:59:26 GMT
|
|
A couple of points;
2" chop looks good, but then the seat will look too tall for the screen.
Roof may look odd if it has to lean down to the screen too much.
A word of warning on the glass & where you get it from.
Plant glass is not rated for more than about 20mph.
Double glazing glass is not the same grade as automotive glass.
Automotive glass is 'ballistic grade' meaning it (mostly) does not break when a stone etc wallops it. Plant glass & double glazing glass is not.
You pays your money, you takes your choice.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2022 19:37:52 GMT
|
|
Just a point to note.
There is no plan for a roof.
This one is a pure good weather car.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 25, 2022 19:58:18 GMT
|
Just a point to note. There is no plan for a roof. This one is a pure good weather car. This is a good weather car? Are you moving out of England............. |
| |
Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Just a point to note. There is no plan for a roof. This one is a pure good weather car. This is a good weather car? Are you moving out of England............. Will be a very low mileage car.... But cool anyway! |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Chop it 4". Just for aesthetics not for function. 4” would look,great withmcut out go-kart seats, low on the floor and slammed like a Filipino car. If a screen height reduction is really, really a "must have" the 50 or 75 both look ok... I suppose the deciding factor with be cost - either cutting exsisting or getting replacement, in your favour is the fact that it is flat, "square" (if you do have it cut make sure you keep the glass marking s ! ...you need to make that call.  You,are right, and cost is a factor, but less so. Big fan of the 50mm chop, looks fantastic from the front and 1/4 view Thank you. The 50mm works for me, any glazier can cut you laminated glass, it won't have the approval mark but as you are not going for IVA you don't need that anyway, a laminated sealed double glazed unit I recently had cut for a french door around 5ft tall and 18" wide was £90 so I would expect these to be less than £50. Thanks Kevin, I would be able to stomach those sorts of costs. Having actually seen it, I think the screen is already about the right size to match the proportions of the car. And chops are one of those modifications where less is more. I'd go with the 50mm chop if I did it all. Cutting off the redundant brackets is easier to do, and will remove most of the fell off a passing Land Rover look. One more thing to consider is that the sides aren't parallel, so the more you cut it down, the shorter the top rail will become and eventually won't fit without considerable extra work. It's also doable at any point up to and even after getting the car on the road, whereas you can't actually drive the thing at the moment because of a lack of steering, wiring, plumbing, fuel etc.Maybe again your wisdom and longer line vision has the answer. Thanks Nick. This would be the winner for me. Agreeing there. Cover the top 2" with black tape of some kind, will help get an idea Also, IIRC there's a modified jeep scene in India that has chopped screens, might be worth a midnight Google Photoshop made that easier to see and it “feels right” for glass you want to find a local company that does agriculture /site plant glass they can cut laminated flat glass for probably less than anyone My thinking all along, despite the glass markings. This would be the winner for me. I'm in for the 50mm option  or maybe go to 60mm max, only a maybe, you never know it might help with the price of the glass when you get the exact measurement  It seems most people like the the 50mm option. Having actually seen it, I think the screen is already about the right size to match the proportions of the car. And chops are one of those modifications where less is more. I'd go with the 50mm chop if I did it all. Cutting off the redundant brackets is easier to do, and will remove most of the fell off a passing Land Rover look. One more thing to consider is that the sides aren't parallel, so the more you cut it down, the shorter the top rail will become and eventually won't fit without considerable extra work. It's also doable at any point up to and even after getting the car on the road, whereas you can't actually drive the thing at the moment because of a lack of steering, wiring, plumbing, fuel etc. WHS - but could you chop away from the bottom so the top rail won't get too narrow and you need to mess with the bottom to remove the brackets anyway. I'd be tempted to get glass cut and chop frame down to suit afterwards to save on the pain of the glass not fitting. One for the nice to have once running list for sure. James Morning James, nickwheeler seems to keep the end goal in mind and realistically point me at it. I am not sure how easy it will be to undo the screen once bolted in with all the stuff following it. But makes a load of sense. Cover the top 2" with black tape of some kind, will help get an idea Also, IIRC there's a modified jeep scene in India that has chopped screens, might be worth a midnight Google Quick midday Google suggests I'd forgotten they were raised on big wheels, so ignore me! No problem. If you do end up with a too low screen, you can try tilting the seat backwards, chop it down to a 4 inch speedster screen, no need for wipers and washers then. To cut laminated glass, cut both sides, tap to separate, some meths on the join, quick bit of fire to soften the plastic, then slice along with a knife. With great power(tools) comes great (I)responsibility Ttfn Glenn Thats it. Having actually seen it, I think the screen is already about the right size to match the proportions of the car. Cutting off the redundant brackets is easier to do, and will remove most of the fell off a passing Land Rover look. One more thing to consider is that the sides aren't parallel, so the more you cut it down, the shorter the top rail will become and eventually won't fit without considerable extra work. It's also doable at any point up to and even after getting the car on the road, whereas you can't actually drive the thing at the moment because of a lack of steering, wiring, plumbing, fuel etc. ^^^^^^^^ This for me, also if you cut down the screen then the seat back & roll bar will be higher than the screen, look a bit odd I.M.O. All the options have pros & cons, the end of the day it's really down to what you want. I think Nicks last point is a very good one, leave it till later, actually driving the car and looking at it complete may change your opinion. Be a lot easier to chop it then than go back to original The seat tops will still be under the cut screen height, but the roll bar will not. The new screens for my Austin cost me £100 each, cash. Personally, I’d leave it the stock height and as a two piece, because the Land-Rover parts places have screen panels cheaper than anywhere else, and they come properly marked. linkyBut I do understand why you are thinking about it while doing the other modifications to the frame to make it fit. Remember, I have that series 3 Land-Rover frame you gave me last year, which could donate its glass if you needed it. The profile sections on the frame itself are different, so it would be no good to use for chopping up to extend your top frame rail though. Like nickwheeler says, stick the screen frame on the mental back burner for a short while, and concentrate on the other stuff. A solution will present itself soon enough. Looks good at 50mm to me , but do you have a soft/hard top for it ? will that need altering to ? I think if you go to low it wont sit with size of the rest of the body Gotcha. To just throw a spanner in the works and give you more to do, I'd go for a 60mm chop, then lay the screen back a bit until the top is about the same height as it would be if you did a 100mm chop. I do like that idea too. Squirrel…….! Grizz, You've probably thought of this and researched it yourself in an earlier entry which I've missed (easy to do in a thread like this that gets updated so regularly due to your rapid progress). Now you have decided on seats, have you checked where the top bar of the windscreen will be in relation to your eye level when sitting in the driver's seat? I had a beach buggy a while ago with a chopped screen. The seats were already bolted to the floorpan, so no way they could be lowered and the top rail of the 'screen was right in my eye line when driving. It was really annoying and uncomfortable having to duck your head down or tilt it to one side to see under the windscreen frame when driving. It wound me up so much I sold the buggy after a couple of months as that ruined the pleasure of driving it. Agreed. The 50-75mm does not interfere at all. A couple of points; 2" chop looks good, but then the seat will look too tall for the screen. Roof may look odd if it has to lean down to the screen too much. A word of warning on the glass & where you get it from. Plant glass is not rated for more than about 20mph. Double glazing glass is not the same grade as automotive glass. Automotive glass is 'ballistic grade' meaning it (mostly) does not break when a stone etc wallops it. Plant glass & double glazing glass is not. You pays your money, you takes your choice. Great info, thank you. And noted. Just a point to note. There is no plan for a roof. This one is a pure good weather car. This is a good weather car? Are you moving out of England............. Not moving anywhere. This is a good weather car? Are you moving out of England............. Will be a very low mileage car.... But cool anyway! I do have a company car, and the S10 for rainy days. This will be to fill the good gaps. . Thank you all for the input and sharing ideas. That was a great exercise and I will be holding on. For a moment or two at least. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2022 11:14:08 GMT
|
Saw this on FB S10 meets Jeep with added Big Block.    Thought it would have a few of you frothing at the mouth. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2022 12:11:49 GMT
|
|
That works for me. Although I would have to remove all the rubbish that stuck to it when it drove through a scrap heap...
|
| |
|
|
Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,951
|
|
Jan 26, 2022 15:15:17 GMT
|
Your vision. Your vehicle. I would leave it as is. P. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2022 15:16:02 GMT
|
Cut it. From the side it looks great. Also- you can cut that flat glass yourself. it's not bad, many vids are out there on it. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2022 18:44:32 GMT
|
I think it looks better chopped... |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2022 19:25:51 GMT
|
|
Old Fiat Panda screen glass has the correct markings, is flat and can be cut down, being used quite frequently for BIVA builds
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jan 26, 2022 20:59:53 GMT
|
I had a chopped one in my VW Roadster, which used a Beetles flat screen. I also had a bit of an issue when I first fitted the BMW Mini seats, as the top of the surround was in my eye line, but a slight tweek of the mounts sorted that. Loving this build!   |
| |
|
|
spacekadett
Part of things
F*cking take that Hans Brrix!!
Posts: 838
|
|
|
|
|
Have to say I’m kinda with nickwheeler in that the screen height looks about right as is, though if pushed I’d go for 50 mm, especially after the photoshop. While not an essential ‘now’ job it’s certainly worth thinking about. A chop might also make it easier to loose the centre bar on the screen too
|
| |
Mechanic's rule #1... If the car works, anything left on the floor after you finished wasn't needed in the first place |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Have to say I’m kinda with nickwheeler in that the screen height looks about right as is, though if pushed I’d go for 50 mm, especially after the photoshop. While not an essential ‘now’ job it’s certainly worth thinking about. A chop might also make it easier to loose the centre bar on the screen too Morning mate, Weirdly, I actually love the centre bar. It pulls the look a touch backwards in age, which I like. I would try keep the centre bar as long as possible. |
| |
|
|
