|
|
|
|
|
Very nice indeed grizz  Is it worth lopping the engine mounts off the front subframe for clearance/tidying up of the engine bay whilst there is room to get there easily? The passenger side needs clearancing to provide space for the stock lower radiator hose. And the easiest way for a neat result is to lop it off. Spoiler alert: We know that, as we've tried most of the engine components in place...... |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Very nice indeed grizz Is it worth lopping the engine mounts off the front subframe for clearance/tidying up of the engine bay whilst there is room to get there easily? As Mr Spoiler nickwheeler mentioned…… The only part of the Mazda that we did not try out, some repeatedly, last night was the fuel filler neck 😉 😉 I originally did not want to cut them off on both sides, because they seem to offer a small amount of rigidity up front, but I may have been mostly mistaken. Watch for episode 317 to see this happen. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nice piece of 9 x 2" and your golden ! Like musing on things like this. James I am thinking of keeping the existing structure and bumper in place….. finding some sort of lightweight structure to bolt on, or over it, to create the look. Maybe some ducting. Though I could sheetmetal fab something I guess. At the pace this thread is running, people will have to page back a page or two to see the New Years Day Massacre update. Sorry 😂 |
| |
Last Edit: Jan 2, 2022 13:52:29 GMT by grizz
|
|
mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,059 
Club RR Member Number: 77
|
|
|
|
Also, is it worth trying the original kitcar propshaft in the Mazda box? If that fits the gap, one more thing less to worry about  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Also, is it worth trying the original kitcar propshaft in the Mazda box? If that fits the gap, one more thing less to worry about ………… |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Also, is it worth trying the original kitcar propshaft in the Mazda box? If that fits the gap, one more thing less to worry about First thing I tried while Rian was opening the garage. It would have been about right for length(we would have used it for the gearbox position), but the splined end won't fit into the gearbox - it is splined all the way around, but the gearbox has a double spline so the prop only fits in one place. And we can't swap either of the ends because the UJs are different sizes. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
After a quick sandwich and coffee we headed back to the shop. Next job was to create a rubber mounted gearbox mount out back. Firstly, cut a previous mounting plate smaller and add a curve. Then add some 3mm strapping, beaten and folded to shape.  Tack into place. Then weld up the whole seam.   Take the 6mm plate cut before, mark out and drill the 12mm holes for the gearbox, and then add the M8 holes for the mounts.  Added together.  After this bit of working and making fit…….. It started to come together. Plate and mounts all together. Can you see the result below? Front view. Liking this.  And from the rear. Layout seems pretty decent.  And finally with the propshaft fitted……. High view.  It did not take much to convince Nick to try it for size.  Unfortunately neither the original Mazda MX5 or Ford propshafts fit. As mentioned by nickwheeler : Also, is it worth trying the original kitcar propshaft in the Mazda box? If that fits the gap, one more thing less to worry about First thing I tried while Rian was opening the garage. It would have been about right for length(we would have used it for the gearbox position), but the splined end won't fit into the gearbox - it is splined all the way around, but the gearbox has a double spline so the prop only fits in one place.
And we can't swap either of the ends because the UJs are different sizes.So that was the next part of the build, and more importantly, a major milestone. Still grinning today. Anyone else happy so far? |
| |
Last Edit: Jan 2, 2022 17:09:51 GMT by grizz
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Could you get an adaptor made to fit the mazda prop tp the ford diff flange or get the ford flange re-drilled to to the mazda pcd?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Could you get an adaptor made to fit the mazda prop tp the ford diff flange or get the ford flange re-drilled to to the mazda pcd? That's the Mazda prop you see in the pics. 2 of the axle flange bolts sort of line up - the Ford bolt pattern is a rectangle, not a square - but the prop end is bottomed out in the gearbox. It's already too long without an adapter. We did use it to refit the engine and gearbox in the same place each time we removed them. The original prop fits the axle  , but the gearbox end won't fit the Mazda box as previously mentioned. The UJs aren't really in a usable state. Just swapping the ends isn't possible because the UJs are different sizes. The prop tubes aren't the same size either which makes cutting and welding them a non-starter even if there was enough material to do so. A brand new prop with the correct ends is one of those things to just buy - the last one I had anything to with needed flanged UJs at each end and with a slider to join a Vauxhall V6 with the original axle of a friend's MGB, cost £180. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nice bit of progress. Not sure if your going to run this on the standard loom or not. If you are, I saw a guy on a Cortina forum who cut all the dials out of the standard mx5 dash and fitted them into the mk1 Cortina bezels. They looked pretty good and it’s a cheap way of getting it going. Something is now telling me I’ve mentioned this before or is it deja vu?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
New years day write up headed your way mr2fcMay take a while. Can you wait? Got dragged round sofa stores, so I'm back now needing a fix! Did get a BK in though... |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This looks like progress!
I'm excited, and will try and get over one day. Might need to bring the terrierist with me though, to keep any cats away...
...allergic
|
| |
|
|
mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,059
Club RR Member Number: 77
|
|
|
|
New years day write up headed your way mr2fcMay take a while. Can you wait? Got dragged round sofa stores, so I'm back now needing a fix! Did get a BK in though... Whopper, XL or just a junior bacon cheese?  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Could you get an adaptor made to fit the mazda prop tp the ford diff flange or get the ford flange re-drilled to to the mazda pcd? That's the Mazda prop you see in the pics. 2 of the axle flange bolts sort of line up - the Ford bolt pattern is a rectangle, not a square - but the prop end is bottomed out in the gearbox. It's already too long without an adapter. We did use it to refit the engine and gearbox in the same place each time we removed them. The original prop fits the axle , but the gearbox end won't fit the Mazda box as previously mentioned. The UJs aren't really in a usable state. Just swapping the ends isn't possible because the UJs are different sizes. The prop tubes aren't the same size either which makes cutting and welding them a non-starter even if there was enough material to do so. A brand new prop with the correct ends is one of those things to just buy - the last one I had anything to with needed flanged UJs at each end and with a slider to join a Vauxhall V6 with the original axle of a friend's MGB, cost £180. Dave Mac list a mx5 to ford prop for around £200. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Got dragged round sofa stores, so I'm back now needing a fix! Did get a BK in though... Whopper, XL or just a junior bacon cheese? Junior!? Just a Whopper meal, a Whopper XL ruins the meat to bread ratio, better to have two Whoppers!!! |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nice bit of progress. Not sure if your going to run this on the standard loom or not. If you are, I saw a guy on a Cortina forum who cut all the dials out of the standard mx5 dash and fitted them into the mk1 Cortina bezels. They looked pretty good and it’s a cheap way of getting it going. Something is now telling me I’ve mentioned this before or is it deja vu? Running as much as possible of the original Mazda MX5 loom However……. I will possibly be looking for a loom donor for the Instrument binnacle section. Plan is to fit the clocks like in the pic, central, facing the driver, and that may call for 18” of extra loom. Know anyone with a scrap MX5 with that part of the loom available to remove or donate to the build?  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mate, that picture makes it look mega!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
That's the Mazda prop you see in the pics. 2 of the axle flange bolts sort of line up - the Ford bolt pattern is a rectangle, not a square - but the prop end is bottomed out in the gearbox. It's already too long without an adapter. We did use it to refit the engine and gearbox in the same place each time we removed them. The original prop fits the axle , but the gearbox end won't fit the Mazda box as previously mentioned. The UJs aren't really in a usable state. Just swapping the ends isn't possible because the UJs are different sizes. The prop tubes aren't the same size either which makes cutting and welding them a non-starter even if there was enough material to do so. A brand new prop with the correct ends is one of those things to just buy - the last one I had anything to with needed flanged UJs at each end and with a slider to join a Vauxhall V6 with the original axle of a friend's MGB, cost £180. Dave Mac list a mx5 to ford prop for around £200. I guess a bit of shopping around with the needed measurements will be in order, and may even save some cash. If anyone knows where to go look, please post up leads. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Is it possible to run the loom down the trans tunnel rather than the sill, it might reach then.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I guess a bit of shopping around with the needed measurements will be in order, and may even save some cash. If anyone knows where to go look, please post up leads. Aghabridge make propshafts..... JW Engineering in Barnehurst are good too: LINK |
| |
|
|
, but the gearbox end won't fit the Mazda box as previously mentioned. The UJs aren't really in a usable state. Just swapping the ends isn't possible because the UJs are different sizes. The prop tubes aren't the same size either which makes cutting and welding them a non-starter even if there was enough material to do so. A brand new prop with the correct ends is one of those things to just buy - the last one I had anything to with needed flanged UJs at each end and with a slider to join a Vauxhall V6 with the original axle of a friend's MGB, cost £180.
