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Mate, proper well done. All I managed was another 7 or 8 miles walk (in shorts!) and a Pizza Hut with different friends from yesterday! Really impressed with what you've managed, great to see the help you've received as well. Where I have managed to Google pics of our shared owner-type jeep quest, you are moving on and living the dream! Thank you very much. At the end of the day, if I had alternatives, I would have been out as well. Regarding the progress, I have to say, you only have to read through this thread from page 1 to see how many people have had a singular or multiple inputs into this build. Even HoTWire for creating this space, and managing it with a velvet covered, steel fist through his moderators and his own input, we have honestly built this together so far. Yeah, there’s no point burning through £20 worth of cutting disks and a couple of hours of your time for a £30 part. 👍 So. It was running two days ago in the donor, right? I’m gonna be disappointed if it’s not running in the Rocket by Boxing Day. 🤣🤣 I was down there earlier on and tookma,few,pics that it was too dark for last night, and thought that maybe just a little messing around with positioning the engine in the chassis later would not be a bad thing. However, I have a few charitable things to do, like loading and delivering a load of firewood, and also some puppy food. But the sooner, the better for this build. My 2011 Holden Captiva here in Aus has still got shiny parts on the suspension like they’re brand new. Salt has a lot to answer for back home. Thank you Tony, you guys as well. |
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This morning when it got light, I went to look, gloat, plan, but it did not last long as it is chilly and damp outside. Ready to be dragged up and out the front for collection.  Engine bay certainly is empty now.  Also tried my Paul Walker gearknob. Bit early, but we can dream.  First day of my holiday, loads to get done, aside from the build. |
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Dec 24, 2021 10:08:50 GMT
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An engine dangle is a good use of a few minutes, even if it's just to illustrate what the engine and gearbox mounts need to be.
Now that it's movable, just lining it alongside the chassis would be a good start.
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totti
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,153
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Dec 24, 2021 10:09:03 GMT
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Guten Tag! Top work!I've never seen such a rotten MX 5 btw...  When i see the loom.....oh,thats not my thing at all.Hope you can bring it to life. I'm more a friend of carbs and points....and the pinto. My only EFI engine in the Knudsen Taunus will get back a carb and a points dizzy,soon as it lets me down again on monday  Have a nice holiday,m8! Greet |
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Last Edit: Dec 24, 2021 17:19:18 GMT by totti
65 'Ford Taunus 17m
66' Ford Taunus 17m Turnier
73' Ford Taunus
63' Ford Taunus Transit 1250
72'Ford Escort 2000cc
71'Ford Escort 1700 4 door
89'Ford Escort Express
87'Ford Fiesta Diesel
64'Ford Cortina 1500 deluxe
57'Volvo PV 444 Califonia
54'Peugeot 203 Commerciale
2004 Harley Davidson Fat Boy
78'Zündapp ZR 20
88'MZ ETZ 250
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Dec 24, 2021 12:06:00 GMT
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The loom has a number of loops around components which makes it look complicated. I was surprised, considering how simple the car is mechanically. We could probably fire the engine up on the floor if we connected the earths together.
I like a Pinto, but the best thing you can do to one in a stock road car is bin the carb and points and fit the factory EFI - that's a self contained loom(if you get it from a Granada) that only needs connecting to the battery, ignition switch and fuel pump to work. You get more power, better drivabilty and improved economy(my five speed Capri went from 34mpg to 40) AND the points don't fail at random times...
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Dec 24, 2021 16:51:28 GMT
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Guten Tag! Top work!I never see such a rotten MX 5 btw... When i see the loom.....oh,thats not my thing at all.Hope you can bring it to life. I'm more a friend of carbs and point....and the pinto. My only EFI engine in the Knudsen Taunus will get back a carb and a points dissy,soon as it lets me down again on monday Have a nice holiday,m8! Greet Thanks Thorsten, It was a lot of work and Nick certainly saved my assss…. The loom has a number of loops around components which makes it look complicated. I was surprised, considering how simple the car is mechanically. We could probably fire the engine up on the floor if we connected the earths together. I like a Pinto, but the best thing you can do to one in a stock road car is bin the carb and points and fit the factory EFI - that's a self contained loom(if you get it from a Granada) that only needs connecting to the battery, ignition switch and fuel pump to work. You get more power, better drivabilty and improved economy(my five speed Capri went from 34mpg to 40) AND the points don't fail at random times... |
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Dec 24, 2021 17:06:10 GMT
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An engine dangle is a good use of a few minutes, even if it's just to illustrate what the engine and gearbox mounts need to be. Now that it's movable, just lining it alongside the chassis would be a good start. Hope this is what you were thinking of nickwheeler. As the hydraulic ram needs to be serviced. So I did very little but accomplished a load. Took a load of firewood and dogfood to some homeless kids living in a rotten caravan. Then back home, cleaned up and moved stuff around in the carport area. Moved the fiberglass body out into the open and got some masking tape, and a few lengths of tile battening. Then rolled the motor next to the chassis and marked out with the blue masking tape where the engine mounts are on the MX5 engine. Next was a stick to show where the bulkhead is, and thus the rear of the engine. Third line is where the mounting bolts for the gearbox sit.   Lastly, I took the car off the rollers and pushed it up against the hedge, hopefully if kevfromwales gets it all together, he will be collecting the shell on the 6th or 7th of January when he is delivering a car nearby (50 mile radius ) I also completed the shopping list and rebolted it onto the car.  I have no car plans for Christmas day except to be nice to Sally and her family. But in the mean time…….. it is spinning around in my head. Peace out. |
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Dec 24, 2021 18:12:49 GMT
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An engine dangle is a good use of a few minutes, even if it's just to illustrate what the engine and gearbox mounts need to be. Now that it's movable, just lining it alongside the chassis would be a good start. Hope this is what you were thinking of nickwheeler . As the hydraulic ram needs to be serviced. Then rolled the motor next to the chassis and marked out with the blue masking tape where the engine mounts are on the MX5 engine. Next was a stick to show where the bulkhead is, and thus the rear of the engine. Third line is where the mounting bolts for the gearbox sit. That was what I had in mind. Next, align the gearlever with the hole in the transmission tunnel, which will give the approximate position of where the engine ought to go. I suspect that it will be a bit further forward than where you have it, which will allow us to modify the chassis mounts instead of making all new ones. |
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Dec 24, 2021 19:19:44 GMT
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That's a great position for the engine, behind the front wheels ,it should have very good weight distribution but unfortunately let down by the rubber chassis. The chassis does require a lot of strengthening to get the best out of the drive train position. Good progress though.
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Dec 24, 2021 20:32:19 GMT
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That's a great position for the engine, behind the front wheels ,it should have very good weight distribution but unfortunately let down by the rubber chassis. The chassis does require a lot of strengthening to get the best out of the drive train position. Good progress though. Having actually seen the car, that engine position is too far back to achieve important things like being able to change gear. An good indication of the 'correct' location would be to put the back of the gearbox where the original (Ford based) propshaft would work. And while I agree that the chassis rigidity isn't ideal, it's plenty good enough for the type of car this is intended to be: a low speed cruiser for nice weather. |
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Dec 24, 2021 20:39:31 GMT
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That's a great position for the engine, behind the front wheels ,it should have very good weight distribution but unfortunately let down by the rubber chassis. The chassis does require a lot of strengthening to get the best out of the drive train position. Good progress though. Not sure if you have read the whole thread or followed the build (this is not an attack by the way, please do keep posting) I am hoping that as nickwheeler mentioned the power to ability of the chassis and build will be sufficient. Poly bushes and gussets may be enough for what we are bringing to the party. Here’s to hoping it all comes together. |
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Dec 24, 2021 21:10:15 GMT
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Brilliant work as usual Rian,
Still think it'll be running and MOT'd by end March, 😁😁
Hope you and Sally have a very Merry Christmas from Dawn and I,
Nigel
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BMW E39 525i Sport
BMW E46 320d Sport Touring (now sold on.)
BMW E30 325 Touring (now sold on.)
BMW E30 320 Cabriolet (Project car - currently for sale.)
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Dec 24, 2021 22:12:14 GMT
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Yeah I do follow the thread, from the beginning, I thought that the engine and box was in the position that is was to be fitted,( my bad) I'm sure someone else commented on the chassis strength previously, but, I was just pointing out what I see, if your happy with it ,its fine by me, its your project after all. Merry Christmas, look forward to 2022 updates.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,341
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Dec 25, 2021 10:44:00 GMT
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That was what I had in mind. Next, align the gearlever with the hole in the transmission tunnel, which will give the approximate position of where the engine ought to go. I suspect that it will be a bit further forward than where you have it, which will allow us to modify the chassis mounts instead of making all new ones. This. ☝️ Get the gear lever where the existing hole in the tub is, and see if there’s room in front of the engine for rad, fan etc. if there is, stick it there. No point making unnecessary engineering challenges with gear lever remotes, ultra short props or tub modifications on something like this. It’s supposed to be interesting and fun. If you wanted a technical tour de force you’d not be starting with a thirty year old Tupperware and angle-iron kitcar and a collection of bits salvaged from a scrapper. 😃👍 Oh, and Merry Christmas. |
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Dec 25, 2021 11:01:05 GMT
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Brilliant work as usual Rian, Still think it'll be running and MOT'd by end March, 😁😁 Hope you and Sally have a very Merry Christmas from Dawn and I, Nigel Thank you,Nigel. Absolutely right back at you and Dawn, trust it will be a busy day for you guys. |
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Dec 25, 2021 11:03:17 GMT
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Yeah I do follow the thread, from the beginning, I thought that the engine and box was in the position that is was to be fitted,( my bad) I'm sure someone else commented on the chassis strength previously, but, I was just pointing out what I see, if your happy with it ,its fine by me, its your project after all. Merry Christmas, look forward to 2022 updates. Updates….. I guess a few to come And some pics. |
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Dec 25, 2021 11:08:26 GMT
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That was what I had in mind. Next, align the gearlever with the hole in the transmission tunnel, which will give the approximate position of where the engine ought to go. I suspect that it will be a bit further forward than where you have it, which will allow us to modify the chassis mounts instead of making all new ones. This. ☝️ Get the gear lever where the existing hole in the tub is, and see if there’s room in front of the engine for rad, fan etc. if there is, stick it there. No point making unnecessary engineering challenges with gear lever remotes, ultra short props or tub modifications on something like this. It’s supposed to be interesting and fun. If you wanted a technical tour de force you’d not be starting with a thirty year old Tupperware and angle-iron kitcar and a collection of bits salvaged from a scrapper. 😃👍 Oh, and Merry Christmas. Merry Christmas mate, to you and your gang. You know me, the less hassle, its best route to go. Ergonomic fit is the most important target for me. So getting it all together in a way that does not necessitate me to add an elbow to my arm is the ideal |
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Dec 25, 2021 11:49:40 GMT
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Merry Christmas to you and Sally Rian.
Will this be your first Mid Engined Vehicle?
Great progress on getting the MX stripped.
Pete
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Dec 25, 2021 13:01:46 GMT
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Merry Christmas to you and Sally have a great day I will of course be checking in on updates as always  |
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93fxdl
Posted a lot
Enter your message here...
Posts: 2,015
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Dec 25, 2021 14:16:40 GMT
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If chassis rigidity becomes a concern, how about a 6 point roll cage? Provide stiffness to the chassis and body, mounting points for seatbelts, windscreen etc, can also provide additional styling and safety
if made bolt in, it doesn't affect your 8 points
Happy Christmas
Ttfn Glenn
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Last Edit: Dec 25, 2021 14:18:38 GMT by 93fxdl
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