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So the thread file was used to tidy up the gear shifter thread, as I had managed to damage it slightly when removing a very tight collar from in and miscalculated my hammer angle. Fixed now. Right…… Back to Sunday and the Kitcar Boogie. You know the one, two steps forward and three steps back. It had become time to fit and fix the windscreen frame so that ECU,,relays, fuses and wiring loom can be fitted and fixed, as well as heater pipes, controls and then the firewall plate and its embellishments. But Karma had other plans. When nickwheeler had done the pedalbox, actuators etc, it all went together relatively easily, as if he had been dealt a bonus card. So I cut and prepped the bolts that became the studs to be welded into the Land Rover screen that glenanderson had donated to the build. I drilled the holes for a tight fit, cleared all the galvanising away for welding, magnet placed and then Nick tacked them all. Trial fitting the 5 studs showed one hole needed a 3mm sideways elongation. No problem, I did that while Nick welded up the studs. Perfect. Errrrrmmmmmmm…. Nope. FAIL. Though we did not know it at this point. So next step was get the Nyloc nuts in there and tighten it down with a high density foam sealing strip. HA HA HA HA HAHAHA. When we assembled the support, I will take the blame here, the angle was welded in the wrong way around, and despite drilling, noticing it all, I had forgotten. Look closely at my KING SIZED COCK-UP. Can you see the problem yet? Yes, no way a nut and socket will be going in there. Space is tight, very tight. So a variety of options were considered, including a tungsten carbide bit to whittle away 25mm of each holes obstruction. In the end I drove to Aghabridge and saw this display when I got there. Explaining my dilemma through the medium of a few photos, Karma smiled and an engineer found me some 15mm pipe with 11mm inner diameter hole, cut me some and sent me on my way. FOR THE TOTAL PRICE OF FREE. From there I went to get some replacement M10 bolts and extras for the firewall work that still has to follow. Hopefully this will come together on Friday when I have a day vacation. More to come.
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Many of you will realise I am the pretty one in this build. Nick is the brains. But rarely, I come up with a goodererer idea. Case in point, fabricating or making up a switch or valve for the heater to turn it off started out as a complex thing, cables, levers, brackets etc…… you know the drill. Then I suggested why not just add a simple tap into the mix. On/Off £12.00 of the Queens English Pounds vs a load of faffing and fabrication. Mounted on the side panel under the dash. Ladies prerogative when feet are freezing. While at Car Builder Solutions I saw this Cod-piece. I need a used one from a scrap car, the one in the donor was completely torn and rotten. Quite phallic in a dark dungeon kinda way. Spent £82.00 inmthe end. Including full,size headlight bowls and chrome trim bezels. The ones with the cut awy backs are specific for Land Rover Discovery. Got home and did a bit of assembly. Later, after walking Bonnie the dog, Sally popped in to say hello before heading home. So I showed her what it looks like, have to say it works for me. Because there was no Sally for dinner, I managed to stay down there till 8.45 doing some little cleaning up jobs. More about that later.
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,038
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Is it later yet? Always love to see updates on this little build grizz
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Last Edit: Mar 15, 2022 8:46:05 GMT by mk2cossie
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Case in point, fabricating or making up a switch or valve for the heater to turn it off started out as a complex thing, cables, levers, brackets etc…… you know the drill. Then I suggested why not just add a simple tap into the mix. On/Off £12.00 of the Queens English Pounds vs a load of faffing and fabrication. Mounted on the side panel under the dash. Sometimes buying your way out of a problem is the only sensible way to proceed; custom propshafts are a good example. And that valve saves so much time and work that not buying it would have been stupid.
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While at Car Builder Solutions I saw this Cod-piece. I need a used one from a scrap car, the one in the donor was completely torn and rotten. Quite phallic in a dark dungeon kinda way. A couple of paper patterns, some leather from a scrap sofa/car seat/handbag/etc, a bit of sewing, a spare bootlace and you soon have your own. Make the necessary bezel from aluminium or stainless sheet.
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bricol
Part of things
Posts: 290
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Mar 15, 2022 14:06:57 GMT
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Might be worth a bit of internetting before you fit that valve - I understand closing the heater circuit can cause overheating/head gasket issues with the MX5 engine.
Might need a Taxi bypass valve as used on Caterhams, or something similar - closes the heater circuit off, bypassing it when "off" to allow coolant to still flow.
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Mar 15, 2022 22:14:10 GMT
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Is it later yet? Always love to see updates on this little build grizz Sorry mate, Day turned into another one of those. And tomorrow after work, I have been roped in to stand in at a big meeting. Had other ideas. But maybe I can call in some payback on Thursday. To try get a headstart on Friday when Nick and I are both off and planning a big push as the weekend is mostly spoken for.
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Mar 15, 2022 22:16:15 GMT
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Case in point, fabricating or making up a switch or valve for the heater to turn it off started out as a complex thing, cables, levers, brackets etc…… you know the drill. Then I suggested why not just add a simple tap into the mix. On/Off £12.00 of the Queens English Pounds vs a load of faffing and fabrication. Mounted on the side panel under the dash. Sometimes buying your way out of a problem is the only sensible way to proceed; custom propshafts are a good example. And that valve saves so much time and work that not buying it would have been stupid. Absolutely spot on. While at Car Builder Solutions I saw this Cod-piece. I need a used one from a scrap car, the one in the donor was completely torn and rotten. Quite phallic in a dark dungeon kinda way. A couple of paper patterns, some leather from a scrap sofa/car seat/handbag/etc, a bit of sewing, a spare bootlace and you soon have your own. Make the necessary bezel from aluminium or stainless sheet. Was looking for abandoned furniture today driving home. Will get it sorted.
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Last Edit: Mar 16, 2022 7:40:11 GMT by grizz
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Might be worth a bit of internetting before you fit that valve - I understand closing the heater circuit can cause overheating/head gasket issues with the MX5 engine. Might need a Taxi bypass valve as used on Caterhams, or something similar - closes the heater circuit off, bypassing it when "off" to allow coolant to still flow. Anyone on here able to confirm this? kevins ?
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,313
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Might be worth a bit of internetting before you fit that valve - I understand closing the heater circuit can cause overheating/head gasket issues with the MX5 engine. Might need a Taxi bypass valve as used on Caterhams, or something similar - closes the heater circuit off, bypassing it when "off" to allow coolant to still flow. Anyone on here able to confirm this? kevins ? I’m sure the MX5 uses a mix flap in the air box so the matrix has a constant flow of coolant. I wonder if the ford electro valves with 4 hoses on are a bypass type? Can just have a heat on-off button or switch.
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So where were we. Cleaning up my act. Monday evening after work I ended up in the garage because Sally was knackered and had gone straight home after walking the dog. So I started on some nice, easy win jobs that ultimately need doing. Cleaning, Flap Wheeling, Scraping, Masking, HEATING And Painting a few pieces Clutch MC and reservoir ready. Pedal box. Manky as hell. Needs new rubbers. Flap wheeled. Better. Dirty Big Donut. Much happier with them all uniformly painted. Have also ordered a £64.00 new Brake MC to fit. Heating each part before painting when it is 7’C outside meant slower going, but it beats sitting around indoors. Came in after this lot. Happy so far.
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Might be worth a bit of internetting before you fit that valve - I understand closing the heater circuit can cause overheating/head gasket issues with the MX5 engine. Might need a Taxi bypass valve as used on Caterhams, or something similar - closes the heater circuit off, bypassing it when "off" to allow coolant to still flow. Anyone on here able to confirm this? kevins ? quick google forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=53576
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I'm wondering why you painted the clutch cylinder with the loose bolt in place?
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I'm wondering why you painted the clutch cylinder with the loose bolt in place? 😂😂😂😂😂 You, Me and Paint. Two angles, it can be replaced with a new one. However, it has a stud one side and a bolt the other side. So making the single, new bolt disappear made more sense visually. But you can have a new one if you want. More paint stories coming up to make your hair curl.
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Remember these bonnet/hood latches that were seized up and rusted away. Well, thought I would try open them, if they broke….. hey, meant to be, if not…. Money saved. I really like their design and they suit the car. Bench vice, spanner……. Cleaned up the steel bits with a small “Knotwheel of Truth” Paul Y ©️ and painted. Used some Autosol to try polish up the handles a bit. Not great, but improved. Halfords wheel silver paint. Hook tab shows condition before when removed from the bonnet/hood. AND REASSEMBLED Saving myself a bit of cash, plus I could not find new ones in the usual places. Cleaning stuff is certainly therapeutic as they are small wins that take time and makes a difference.
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Last Edit: Mar 16, 2022 8:55:14 GMT by grizz
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,280
Club RR Member Number: 64
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That’s definitely a win. They used to be cheap and plentiful, as the army used them on Land-Rover bonnets, but they seem to have shot up in the last ten years or so.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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maf260
Part of things
Posts: 531
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....Errrrrmmmmmmm…. Nope. FAIL. Though we did not know it at this point. So next step was get the Nyloc nuts in there and tighten it down with a high density foam sealing strip. HA HA HA HA HAHAHA. When we assembled the support, I will take the blame here, the angle was welded in the wrong way around, and despite drilling, noticing it all, I had forgotten. Look closely at my KING SIZED COCK-UP. Can you see the problem yet? Yes, no way a nut and socket will be going in there. Space is tight, very tight...... Could you not use one of these to help you out of this situation...?
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Mar 16, 2022 10:10:42 GMT
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Many of you will realise I am the pretty one in this build. Nick is the brains. I'll stick with the "Grizz grin" if you don't mind the headlights do look "pretty cool" looking forward to seeing the front end finished keep up the good work
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,911
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Mar 16, 2022 10:12:25 GMT
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Last Edit: Mar 16, 2022 10:14:00 GMT by jamesd1972
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bricol
Part of things
Posts: 290
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Mar 16, 2022 13:26:31 GMT
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thats the one. Seem to have a slight tendancy to leak around the swagwes - had two in 20 odd years in the Caterham
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