Logicaluk's V8 herald pickup project

The third job for today is clean up the workshop, the First, make even more mess by completing the strip down of the V8, second make a bacon butty whilst posting this lot.

The crank pulley thought it had the best of me but I bolted a bit of box section to the crank and attacked the other end with the big breaker and wound it out, the sump was much cleaner than I had expected.

20200905_103001 by logicaluk, on Flickr


The front cover came off with a total of 2 sheared bolts one for the water pump with a nice bit to grab on to and one for the oil pump that broke off flush, curse word.


I think at this point it realised there was no point in fighting me so it capitulated and came apart fairly easily.

By the looks of it was taken out of use just before major damage occurred.

20200905_100020 by logicaluk, on Flickr

20200905_100214 by logicaluk, on Flickr

20200905_102754 by logicaluk, on Flickr

20200905_100338 by logicaluk, on Flickr

1
20200905_103511 by logicaluk, on Flickr

2
20200905_103520 by logicaluk, on Flickr

3
20200905_103526 by logicaluk, on Flickr

4
20200905_103551 by logicaluk, on Flickr


5
20200905_103602 by logicaluk, on Flickr

6
20200905_104812 by logicaluk, on Flickr

7
20200905_103632 by logicaluk, on Flickr

8
20200905_103611 by logicaluk, on Flickr

cleaned up and did a bit more, both sheared bolts came out the front cover, one wound out with some heat, the other had to be drilled out and re-tapped.

Upon close inspection I think the camshaft has had it.

20200905_125905 by logicaluk, on Flickr

the cam follower that lost its clip, took out a push rod.

20200905_131753 by logicaluk, on Flickr

Both of the rocker shafts are well worn, and ones bent.

biscuit.

So the shopping list looked like this

Full gasket set
Rocker shaft x2
Push rod x1
Piston rings
Main bearings
Big end bearings
Timing chain
Cam and followers
Core plugs

Any one have a Lucas hotwire ECU they would like to part with?

It's what I have in my tr7v8 on su's, which works fine.

If darkspeed doesen't have one I'm pretty sure there are 16 pusrods in my attic you are welcome to one, I'm not back for a week though.

I've been having a hunt on eBay;

£5 Proper valve stem oil seals as opposed to the flat washer type
£14 Cam chain both sprockets look OK
£60 Camshaft 3.9
£20 Core plugs
£48 Piston rings OEM quality
£50 Glyco std main and big end bearings

Plus the £37 I've already spent on gasket sets



£234 for a full rebuild kit. I had hoped it was just going to be a head set, lol.

But I can't grumble at that.

It may be wise to add a shim kit for setting the lifter preload, especially if you are mixing parts from several engines and these shim kits are not expensive

I built a Microsquirt EFI system for the acclaim from scratch and the pair of Strombergs I've got sat in a draw for this need rebuilding so there's probably not a lot in it, I'm not looking for power but reliability and having it injected would be right up my street.

When I took the lifters out they didn't look to bad, and I was hoping to get away with a just a head gasket, now I'm in deep enough and it's not worth it, new lifters and timing gears ordered. No point in spoiling the ship for a hapth of tar as my Granddad would have said.

Yesterday my ultrasonic cleaner turned up, what a treat that was, opening the box to find not only a proper deathdaptor but a power lead that when plugged into it couldn't make earth contact, despite 3 warnings on the tank and another in the booklet all saying this appliance must be grounded....

20200907_154325 by logicaluk, on Flickr

The euro plug can't connect to earth but if you look closely at the earth pin on the deathdaptor you can see the earth pin is sleeved, so only connects when you First start to plug it in, when the live and neutral pins connect the earth pin get disconnected leaving the appliance unearthed. What fun! I messaged the company, and they have offered to pay for a new lead. I also checked the earth continuity on the tank before plugging a spare lead in to it.

It's a good size, 10l but this also has a drawback, the 250w heater isn't man enough to bring 10l of cold water up 1℃ in 5 mins, so I also had to purchase a workshop kettle, now when filled with boiling water the heater will quite happily keep the water up around 75-80℃ even when changing parts, I've made it an insulated hat to go on top of the lid to help keep the heat in.
It's big enough to get 2 pistons and con rods in along with a main bearing cap.

20200907_162406 by logicaluk, on Flickr

This evening I ran it for about 3 hours, cleaned 8 pistons all the main bearing caps and bolts and the other bank of valve springs.

Whilst that was cooking, I took the planet gears out of the spares' gearbox, I say spares but it looks as if it was rebuilt shortly before being taken off the road, the internals of the box were spotlessly clean the ATF was bright red and there was some old greasy looking stuff which I assume is Vaseline in places, and one of the break bands still has writing on.

20200908_172937 by logicaluk, on Flickr

I've also pulled out the core plus from the sides of the block, I will remove the 2 outer ones on the back and leave the cam one in but how am I supposed to remove the 2 hex plugs, or should I leave it to the machine shop when I sent the head and block in to be cleaned?

Thanks,
Dan

I don't know how you're building this engine up, but I have a 3.9 cross bolted engine (complete minus the crank and pistons) that I want rid of, and some brand new bigger inlet and exhaust valves, shortened and bulleted valve guides, new stem seals, new rocker shafts and a timing cover too. Also a full set of heavy duty adjustable push rods. All bought for a project I'm not doing anymore.

Do you still need a pushrod?

I found them yesterday, if so PM me your address and I will pop one in the post.

Kevin