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What sort of process is the best to remove paint thats on top of the original colour? Last year i had to take my roof back to bare metal as it had horrible fake patina. But while doing this i noticed there was no primer between the original beige and the new purple applied over it.
Am i looking at alot of wet sanding until i get it back to the beige? or are there better ways that wont harm the original paint?
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1967 Beetle
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Maybe post this in the body and paint thread
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Its really hard to say - some paints remove easily - others don't - you could try a little cellulose paint thinners on a cloth in small area and see how you get on - there are no guarantees that it wont effect the original paint though - its also very difficult to estimate what the new paint is covering i.e. any areas of work into the original paint finish - other than than that you could attempt to carefully flat it back then polish the original paint to a finish with a compound - again you cant guarantee what you will find under the current paint finish or if you may find yourself flatting / polishing through the original paint in your attempt to remove the non original finish but there is only one way that you can find out - you may get lucky - then again you may end up having to repaint the panels involved
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Last Edit: Jul 8, 2020 10:48:09 GMT by Deleted
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cjj
Part of things
Posts: 275
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A fair few years ago I was trying to remove some aerosol-applied paint on a car (badly sprayed). I spent a while wet sanding it back and got a bit bored of the lack of progress. A bit of 2K thinners on a rag pretty much wiped it away instantly, back to the factory finish underneath. Very strong stuff. So strong, in fact, that my mother at the time had gone rummaging through my supplies and tried to use some like it was turps, and it melted the brush she was using
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Last Edit: Jul 8, 2020 11:00:12 GMT by cjj
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Its really hard to say - some paints remove easily - others don't - you could try a little cellulose paint thinners on a cloth in small area and see how you get on - there are no guarantees that it wont effect the original paint though - its also very difficult to estimate what the new paint is covering i.e. any areas of work into the original paint finish - other than than that you could attempt to carefully flat it back then polish the original paint to a finish with a compound - again you cant guarantee what you will find under the current paint finish or if you may find yourself flatting / polishing through the original paint in your attempt to remove the non original finish but there is only one way that you can find out - you may get lucky - then again you may end up having to repaint the panels involved When i did the roof i used starchem paint stripper a layer took off the current paint and then i found i had to apply 2 more coats to remove the original paint. So might give the cellulose thinners ago. If you were to flat it back what grit would you recommend? would something like 800 be ok? A fair few years ago I was trying to remove some aerosol-applied paint on a car (badly sprayed). I spent a while wet sanding it back and got a bit bored of the lack of progress. A bit of 2K thinners on a rag pretty much wiped it away instantly, back to the factory finish underneath. Very strong stuff. So strong, in fact, that my mother at the time had gone rummaging through my supplies and tried to use some like it was turps, and it melted the brush she was using Interesting so was it just abit of elbow grease when you did this? did you have to wipe the panel down with a wet cloth once you were happy?
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1967 Beetle
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cjj
Part of things
Posts: 275
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A fair few years ago I was trying to remove some aerosol-applied paint on a car (badly sprayed). I spent a while wet sanding it back and got a bit bored of the lack of progress. A bit of 2K thinners on a rag pretty much wiped it away instantly, back to the factory finish underneath. Very strong stuff. So strong, in fact, that my mother at the time had gone rummaging through my supplies and tried to use some like it was turps, and it melted the brush she was using Interesting so was it just abit of elbow grease when you did this? did you have to wipe the panel down with a wet cloth once you were happy? Not even elbow grease really, just an info-mercial style wipe. What essentially is the case, in my learned opinion, is that Acrylic paints are obviously air-dry and can be thinned after drying by 2K thinner. Thus that anything on top of the original 2K clear was easily thinned and wiped away. As it was, I just redid the job so it was a case of cleaning, scuffing, wax & grease removing, and re-doing. I expect that would have wiped off with 2K thinner after, too. Of course the usual spot-test caveats would apply, but the moral is that if you use the right stuff then the job is somewhat straightforward.
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Its really hard to say - some paints remove easily - others don't - you could try a little cellulose paint thinners on a cloth in small area and see how you get on - there are no guarantees that it wont effect the original paint though - its also very difficult to estimate what the new paint is covering i.e. any areas of work into the original paint finish - other than than that you could attempt to carefully flat it back then polish the original paint to a finish with a compound - again you cant guarantee what you will find under the current paint finish or if you may find yourself flatting / polishing through the original paint in your attempt to remove the non original finish but there is only one way that you can find out - you may get lucky - then again you may end up having to repaint the panels involved When i did the roof i used starchem paint stripper a layer took off the current paint and then i found i had to apply 2 more coats to remove the original paint. So might give the cellulose thinners ago. If you were to flat it back what grit would you recommend? would something like 800 be ok? A fair few years ago I was trying to remove some aerosol-applied paint on a car (badly sprayed). I spent a while wet sanding it back and got a bit bored of the lack of progress. A bit of 2K thinners on a rag pretty much wiped it away instantly, back to the factory finish underneath. Very strong stuff. So strong, in fact, that my mother at the time had gone rummaging through my supplies and tried to use some like it was turps, and it melted the brush she was using Interesting so was it just abit of elbow grease when you did this? did you have to wipe the panel down with a wet cloth once you were happy? 800's wet & dry initially but then 1200 / 1500 prior to polish - it will be the most laborious of tasks to undertake - but if gets you the desired result
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Interesting so was it just abit of elbow grease when you did this? did you have to wipe the panel down with a wet cloth once you were happy? Not even elbow grease really, just an info-mercial style wipe. What essentially is the case, in my learned opinion, is that Acrylic paints are obviously air-dry and can be thinned after drying by 2K thinner. Thus that anything on top of the original 2K clear was easily thinned and wiped away. As it was, I just redid the job so it was a case of cleaning, scuffing, wax & grease removing, and re-doing. I expect that would have wiped off with 2K thinner after, too. Of course the usual spot-test caveats would apply, but the moral is that if you use the right stuff then the job is somewhat straightforward. You need to tread with with caution here not all production vehicles were painted with a base & clear system - just a direct gloss solvent based system - others were painted in a base & single pack clear system - not until you get into the 1980's was it commonplace for vehicle production lines to adopt a solvent base coat & 2 pack clear system with a water based base coat colour & 2 pack clear system being applied to production vehicles from the early 1990's onwards
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cjj
Part of things
Posts: 275
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Not even elbow grease really, just an info-mercial style wipe. What essentially is the case, in my learned opinion, is that Acrylic paints are obviously air-dry and can be thinned after drying by 2K thinner. Thus that anything on top of the original 2K clear was easily thinned and wiped away. As it was, I just redid the job so it was a case of cleaning, scuffing, wax & grease removing, and re-doing. I expect that would have wiped off with 2K thinner after, too. Of course the usual spot-test caveats would apply, but the moral is that if you use the right stuff then the job is somewhat straightforward. You need to tread with with caution here not all production vehicles were painted with a base & clear system - just a direct gloss solvent based system - others were painted in a base & single pack clear system - not until you get into the 1980's was it commonplace for vehicle production lines to adopt a solvent base coat & 2 pack clear system with a water based base coat colour & 2 pack clear system being applied to production vehicles from the early 1990's onwards That would be the spot-test caveats, as mentioned. They use similar techniques when restoring oil paintings, and professionals in that area can do remarkable things with chemical know-how that is impressive, such as knowing how to dissolve the lacquer/clear from a UV-damaged painting without damaging the underlying colours.
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Hi, If there's no primer between the two paints then it could show that preparation was not paramount in the recolour, you could try just pressure washing it to see if the jet gets under the top coat and lifts it off. So that could be a first line of attack with less risk before adopting the other suggestions.
Colin
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,812
Club RR Member Number: 174
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I'm not sure what the best method is, but learn from my friends mistake and strip an common rust spots/damage areas first. My friend spent about 2 weeks taking a respray off to reveal the original paint (one of those colour change Primera's), got to the last section (OS rear quarter panel) and it had been replaced and he couldn't colour match it at the time lol. Ended up having it resprayed in normal paint more or less the same colour as he bought it.
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Jul 15, 2020 15:11:40 GMT
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Has anyone got a good way of removing household paint from a vehicle? My camper was painted with a brush prior to me buying it and a bit has come off leaving the grey underneath when I shot the pressure washer at the side of the van! Cheers Rob.
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cjj
Part of things
Posts: 275
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Jul 17, 2020 22:26:58 GMT
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Has anyone got a good way of removing household paint from a vehicle? My camper was painted with a brush prior to me buying it and a bit has come off leaving the grey underneath when I shot the pressure washer at the side of the van! Cheers Rob. Regular thinners, I'd say. I have a large tin of premium thinners that makes good gunwash or a decent overspray/tar/anything remover.
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