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I am looking to install some compressed air hard piping to my unit and looking for some help/inspiration in speccing it.
I will have 1 compressor permanently mounted on a mezzanine level hard piped to 200ltr blasting cabinet, 1 retractable hose reel and a couple of additional outlets, I will also pipe it so that a second compressor can be connected in parallel with check valves after each of the 2 compressors. This is for when I come to blast the shell off my T2 camper in the future, so that I have sufficient CFM capability to run a blaster with decent sized nozzle.
The compressor which will be permanently connected is older and I don't know what the CFM of this is, my newer compressor is 14CFM, this will be the second one which is temporarily connected; I am working on total capacity of 30-35 CFM.
I was initially planning on using 22mm Copper pipe due to corrosion resistance and being quite cheap and easy to work with. Although I'm not sure if this will be large enough diameter to handle the required airflow. I am happy enough so far as the layout of the loop is concerned with suitable drain off points, flexi connection between compressor and hard piping etc.
Some google engineering hasn't given me anything conclusive, anyone done something similar before knowledgeable on the subject give me some advise for piping sizes?
Thanks,
David
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,948
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I believe our very own @johnnybravo was talking about using copper pipe a while back but not sure we actually came to a conclusion. Would be interested to see how it is done myself. P.  |
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Last Edit: Jul 7, 2020 8:36:23 GMT by Paul Y
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Some use steel but plastic is increasingly replacing this market - copper is few & far between but can be used - the plastic market is simple with push fit couplings & the advantage of being corrosion resistant (its what I have in my workshop) - the larger ID of the pipe the more capacity the system will hold and something in the 20mm ID range should give you capacity - however you are wanting to link two compressors into the same system - have you checked what the SWP (safe working pressures) of what each compressor receiver tank is along with the safety valves and are the auto start / shut offs operating at the same pressures or are you planning on one of them starting in a reserve capacity at a lower pressure - I would have thought it wise to run each compressor on its own separate power feed back the consumer unit too
Finally you mention that you intend on blasting your T2 camper shell - I don't know if you have any experience of blasting a bodyshell - especially something T2 sized - but unless you have a separate enclosure - a method to turn the shell through 360 degrees - a dust extraction system and good quality blasting equipment verging on the industrial scale - I would not bother - its a hard, time consuming & filthy slog even with the right kit - from experience you would far better off sending the shell to a professional blasting company or even better getting the body shell dipped by a specialist processer
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Hi, @grumpynorthener Is right on both counts, however if you want to persevere and with no disrespect to him or anyone else on here who has done this. You might want to try the Mig welding forum because there is lots of knowledge on there, not just welding but machining of all sort and various industrial processes. - www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/ This doesn't mean you can't come back here and let us know how you get on with the project. HTH Colin
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Last Edit: Jul 7, 2020 10:32:06 GMT by colnerov
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Some use steel but plastic is increasingly replacing this market - copper is few & far between but can be used - the plastic market is simple with push fit couplings & the advantage of being corrosion resistant (its what I have in my workshop) - the larger ID of the pipe the more capacity the system will hold and something in the 20mm ID range should give you capacity - however you are wanting to link two compressors into the same system - have you checked what the SWP (safe working pressures) of what each compressor receiver tank is along with the safety valves and are the auto start / shut offs operating at the same pressures or are you planning on one of them starting in a reserve capacity at a lower pressure - I would have thought it wise to run each compressor on its own separate power feed back the consumer unit too Finally you mention that you intend on blasting your T2 camper shell - I don't know if you have any experience of blasting a bodyshell - especially something T2 sized - but unless you have a separate enclosure - a method to turn the shell through 360 degrees - a dust extraction system and good quality blasting equipment verging on the industrial scale - I would not bother - its a hard, time consuming & filthy slog even with the right kit - from experience you would far better off sending the shell to a professional blasting company or even better getting the body shell dipped by a specialist processer Each compressor will be going through its own NRV prior to joining the fixed piping, so one compressor should not have any effect on the other with regards to rating and safety valve, I believe these are similarly rated anyway but will check this in case of any passing of check valve, same for the pressure switches for on/off control. The system will only be normally running on one compressor, just with the capability to temporarily connect the second compressor. I also plan to wire main compressor direct to DB and connect secondary one to socket ring as and when its used. I thought that the plastic push fit stuff may have been expensive, I know the plumbing push fittings are, do you have a link for where you got your stuff from? I will be getting a spit for the shell, its currently got nothing attached on the underside and sat on my lift so that will be the next stage; planning on creating some form of booth around it whether that be one of those temporary garages or similar to contain the mess and was planning on using air fed mask. Will maybe start with the areas I know need repairing and see how I get on although I think the cost of what I will pay to get it blasted or dipped by a company will be prohibitive. Thanks for the feedback, David. |
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I believe our very own @johnnybravo was talking about using copper pipe a while back but not sure we actually came to a conclusion. Would be interested to see how it is done myself. P. Still on the list of things to do, but other things have had to take priority |
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Having also used the plastic push fit I'd never go copper ever again. Far easier to use and just as cheap. Bloody easy to run around the workshop as well as it comes in long rolls.
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lmr
Part of things
Posts: 50
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This is an interesting thread. I was about to ask whether I need to use rigid pipe, but the above message refers to the use of long rolls. Is that MDPE rolls you have used?
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I think so - its blue if that helps  If you can slog through my thread here my garageit shows me fitting it and I think I also have a link in there to where to buy it from. |
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we have blue coated metal pipes at work, all push fit.
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Jul 11, 2020 14:32:23 GMT
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Toolstation do all you need and not expensive
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Its not broken, its resting!
Max signature image height: 80px
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Jul 16, 2020 22:52:20 GMT
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Copper is ridiculously expensive, Traditionally screwed iron fitting might be used. However... I repiped my garage in what was then called acorn , in 1987- it's now called hep2o. I highly recommend it . I have had no problems in over 30 years. I used 1/2 "BSP wallplate elbows (outside tap fitting) with a reducer down to 1/4 bsp for the fittings.
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