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Looking very nice! Its good to see how you pulled the engine out- I think we will take ours out through the top as well, rather than out the bottom. It just seems the right way to do it for me- a fella who is really only ever used to rwd cars. Did you pull the driveshafts out completely from the hubs and box or just out of the box and tuck them aside? I remember using plenty of that simonez tough black paint when I lived in the UK. Its a nice paint- goes on well and lives up to its name! It just made sense to go from the top, the hoise my friend built is pretty big so there was plenty of height available  I removed the driveshafts completely for ease. Although the inner joints were quite well in the gearbox so I had to remove the boot to get the shaft out. Good job we did because I wouldn't have known about the lack of grease in one of them. It was much easier removing the two lower shock bolts. We'll see how the paint stands up over time, I hope it does because I really don't wanna do this again lol |
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Nov 25, 2020 21:47:01 GMT
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Sunday 22nd November  Spent a couple of hours in the afternoon on the car. Unfortunately I couldnt do much until parts arrive but I managed to tick off a few smaller jobs  Fuse box and plugs cleaned Battery tray fixed down Battery earth fitted Earth points cleaned to bare metal and fitted Coolant hose/wiring clips fitted Alternator tensioned Exhaust manifold bolted up to front pipe Slam panel loosely fitted Label cable tie tags removed Injector and Coilpack plugs cleaned Wiper motor refitted   Today Wednesday 25th November  It was certainly a roller-coaster of a day *sigh* Finished painting the top of the Slam panel Filled the gearbox with fluid Fitted the radiator, fan and hoses Laid on the floor to tighten the last jubilee clip, noticed the floor was wet. Gearbox oil was curse word out because the driveshafts weren't pushed in all the way 🤦 Threw some sand down to help soak it up  Removed and refitted the driveshafts, made a nice 'pop' as I pushed it in this time round. Refilled with another litre of fluid and so far no more leaks 🤞🤞 Refitted the radiator (was easier to refill with it out of the way). Also fitted the new coolant expansion tank  Next wednesday should see the last remaining jobs done and hopefully its first start up |
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milk
Part of things
Posts: 102
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Nov 27, 2020 16:40:38 GMT
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Looks awesome with the vinyl lines on. What are the benefits of the new engine?
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Nov 27, 2020 21:04:24 GMT
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400cc more and a whopping 22bhp increase. But I'm using the 1.0L gearbox so ratios will be shorter for better acceleration
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Today I wanted to get the last remaining jobs ticked off the list and hopefully turn the key.  First job was to fit the Almera N15 GA16 Airbox and air ducting. I found some 51mm reinforced air duct in the garage that I purchased for the supercharged MX5 but never got round to using it. I ordered a 73-51mm silicone reducer and I had some 50mm stainless tube spare to make a joiner. The ducting fits perfectly in the hole behind the coolant reservoir which was a bonus.  I also fitted a freshly painted strut brace, no idea on the brand as there are no markings on it. I bought it from Chloe along with the box because I knew it would clear. Some stainless M10 bolts finished it off a treat I wasnt happy with how awful the OEM PAS reservoir looked, so I ordered a Mishimoto item along with some male adapters and elbow fixings because I needed them facing downwards. I made a bracket because the bolt holes were different, turns out the hoses were quite alot different than I had originally planned. I switched one fitting back to the original but due to the length of the hoses its now moved the tank approx 90 degrees, making the new bracket redundant. I'll keep the new bracket and make a triangle bracket and hope one mounting bolt on top is enough for support.  With the engine oil, PAS and coolant now filled it was time to start it up. It didnt quite start first time (more like 3) but it started none the less. A couple of issues... - The idle is currently around 1500rpm, thats because I couldnt check until the engine was started - Exhaust manifold is blowing (I picked a gasket from work which 'looked' correct, turns out it wasnt. The correct one will be ordered tomorrow) - Engine Management Light is on I used my OBDII reader and it came back with P1605 - A/T Diagnostic Communication Line Because the engine and ECU are from an Auto model, the ECU can't see the CVT Controller. Fitting a 1.4 manual ECU would solve it, but its finding one with the key and transponder  By this point it had gotten dark and started to rain. I managed to get the headlights and bumper refitted just to 'finish it' off.  My to-do list is now: - Adjust throttle cable - Make a bracket for the PAS reservoir - Make a bracket for the airbox - Make a bracket for the air duct - Paint any bolts that weren't replaced with stainless - Fit arch liners and undertray - Replace exhaust manifold gasket - Test drive |
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So today I sorted out the PAS reservoir bracket and made a bracket for the airbox, but the breather hose coming off the rocker cover is very very close to the mounting hole so I've left that for now. Adjusted the throttle cable leaving the airbox off incase I needed to adjust it more....car wouldnt start even with some throttle. Perhaps the throttle cable was too slack, so checked again and had it so there was barely any slack....nope it stiill wouldnt start. We had a pretty sharp cold night (not sure if there was any frost but it was certainly cold enough to) perhaps the harsh cold had gotten to the battery? The battery was replaced the day I started to strip the engine bay, having put it on charge before the previous update I knew the battery was in good health. I tried jump starting it to rule out the battery, it had plenty of cranking but not firing. I disconnected the 1.4 auto ECU and key transponder and refitted the original 1.0 ECU and transponder, it fired up straight away. This was mind boggling. The car started and ran numerous times 4 days prior, got upto temperature and cooled down when I was checking for leaks etc etc The only thing I had done was adjusted the throttle cable?! Either something is fried inside the 1.4 auto ECU or something has happened to the NATS (Nissan's factory immobiliser) The Engine Management Light is back, we know it can't be CVT gearbox related because its a manual transmission ECU. Plugged in my OBD2 reader and no faults are found, cleared the code and the light disappears. Switch the engine off and read the ECU again, no codes found....bizzare Anyway.... With the car running I got it moving for the first time and parked it on flat ground to check the fluids. A small top up and we're good to go for a test drive. I drove round a 1 mile radius, temperature stayed half way, EML still on but I'll ignore that for a second. Shifting gears around 3k while I bed this new clutch in but its changing gears smoothly and the clutch bite is good.  Parked up outside the house to check for any leaks and there wasn't any. This gave me an opportunity to finally clean the driveway of transmission fluid  I didn't fix the leaking exhaust manifold because I received confirmation of shipping of the new Gizfab 4-2-1 Manifold, woohoo! I'll persevere with the blow until the new one gets fitted next week at work.   The engine bay still needs some tidying up and some paint touch ins but its now running and driving and those things can come as and when (I've got an R34 to fix next)   Now to get some miles on the clock and get this clutch bedded in. Its gonna be torture not putting my foot down properly especially when the new manifold goes on but it'll be worth the wait! Next up... brake upgrade (I've got the parts I didnt want to bed a clutch and brakes at the same time) |
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Got it plugged into a Snap On machine this morning and it brought up P0443 Evap Purge Control Circuit Fault
The carbon canister has been unplugged and removed, so will need to find a way to loop the circuit or at least see if I can remove the sensor from the canister and leave it plugged in (if that'll work)
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tom13
Part of things
Posts: 571
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Looks great dude 10/10. this thing is going to be so fun and ultra reliable. What are the ratios like between the 1.0 and the 1.3 box. I can remember my 1.0 being a bit of a pain at 70 on the motorway.
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Taken from carsopedia.com
1.0L
1st 3,06:1
2nd 1,83:1
3rd 1,21:1
4th 0,93:1
5th 0,76:1
Reverse 3,42:1
Final Drive 3
1.4L
1st 3,33:1
2nd 1,95:1
3rd 1,29:1
4th 0,93:1
5th 0,76:1
Reverse 3,42:1
Final drive 3
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tom13
Part of things
Posts: 571
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Taken from carsopedia.com 1.0L 1st 3,06:1 2nd 1,83:1 3rd 1,21:1 4th 0,93:1 5th 0,76:1 Reverse 3,42:1 Final Drive 3 1.4L 1st 3,33:1 2nd 1,95:1 3rd 1,29:1 4th 0,93:1 5th 0,76:1 Reverse 3,42:1 Final drive 3 That will work out well then with a bit better acceleration but the top speed relative to ratio being the same. I though the larger capacity ones had a taller 5th gear. |
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Dec 10, 2020 19:43:46 GMT
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I made a bracket to support the air duct hose. Its a tempory thing until I can find someone with a riv-nut tool and I'll look into moving it to the suspension turret (will need to check the hose for shape/fitment at that position)   The final piece of the engine bay puzzle finally arrived, my Gizfab 4-2-1 Manifold and front pipe    First impressions, the quality and workmanship is second to none. Picking up the box I wasn't expecting it to be so light! The quality of the welds are top notch, every piece truely is a work of art. Fitment was very good, the only issue we encountered was the 2nd lambda boss was directly under the driveshaft. I spoke to Eden at Gizfab and he said they've been using the same jig for 2+ years with no issues. He's offered to make me another front pipe with the lambda boss further back. Excellent communication and customer service. The noise....oh the sweet...sweet....asbo noise haha This thing is LOUD. Not obnoxious loud, somewhere between Honda Civic and straight pipe haha The de-cat and design of the manifold has certainly perked things up with the driving experience and instantly noticed a difference. Its certainly made the car very nostalgic, a throw back to the previous Red K11 with the noise and driveability, instantly putting a huge smile on my face. I just hope its within the track day decibel limits |
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Dec 15, 2020 13:04:55 GMT
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Been watching this build all along.
I would not be able to do such a cool build, but am still inspired and have to really hold back, though I am currently investigating an MOT Failed V-Reg car.
Your build, and the aesthetics appeal to me big time.
Keep posting and updating please.
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Dec 20, 2020 19:41:01 GMT
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Dec 20, 2020 19:47:06 GMT
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Dec 20, 2020 19:51:10 GMT
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Dec 20, 2020 19:54:16 GMT
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And it’s a YES from me.
Great perspectives
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Dec 21, 2020 16:48:19 GMT
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Nice build! Now it needs better seats, longer gear stick and ITB's.
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Dec 30, 2020 14:51:11 GMT
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Nice one- looks like quite a fun build, some nicely put together modifications despite sticking to a budget and a good write up too. So, when’s the first trackday? Reminded me of a Micra I saw at a trackday a couple of years ago with a couple of brothers in it- so the story went it was their Gran’s car and after she’d given up driving they’d been given it. I seem to recall all they’d done to it before taking it to trackdays was put bigger wheels and tyres on it and rebuilt the brakes, perhaps they’d lowered it too... anyway, they drove it like it was stolen all day and were clearly having a lot of fun. Bookmarked for updates |
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Dec 30, 2020 14:57:34 GMT
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I purchased an eBay short shifter a few months ago but was waiting for the exhaust to be changed to do so. While the Gizfab 4-2-1 Manifold was being fitted I also installed this along with a new stock middle section.  Installation was straight forward with the help from Leadfoot's video on youtube. Although the washers provided weren't enough I had to purchase some thicker ones.  If anyone reading this is planning on fitting one, make sure you thread lock the bolts to prevent them coming loose. Its made such a difference with the driving experience, it was certainly worth the £44 and half an hour on a ramp .  Another eBay purchase was this badge, couldnt help myself lol   A friend contacted me asking if I'd be interested in some wheels that he had on his Reliant Scimitar SS1. At first glance they looked like Wanatabe, but upon closer inspection they're stamped Enkei on the back, in a 14x6j ET38 fitment.  I just need to find some centre caps which seem tricky to find. The bore is 63mm but I'd like taller caps like on the Minilite wheels Tyre size is more baloon-y with the side wall slightly taller being a 185/60r14. These will do for now and still suit the car IMO   After weeks and weeks of searching, I FINALLY have a 1.4 manual transmission ECU,key and receiver. The car has been running on the 1.0 ECU which has been fine for 90% of the time. It would occasionally be lumpy or hold back (like a minor misfire) when pulling away. With the car hoping to see a track day next year, I felt I needed the correct ECU to make sure the fuel/ignition is correct. I know the Bosch ECUs will self learn to an extent, but its for peace of mind I was very very close to sending the 1.0 ECU to Tornado Systems to have their chip installed, it may be a path I'd consider down the line but for now I'm happy with how the car is running.  I'd like to get it on a Dyno at some point to see how many ponies have escaped over the years |
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Dec 30, 2020 16:26:08 GMT
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Nice build, I like this car a lot! Great work on the engine bay and the vinyls look spot on.
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