Mk1 VW LT 35 Tipper Truck 'Lucky Lloyd'

Hi Rich,

Thanks... I appreciate it 👍. The bodywork has been one massively endless task, so this new engine is a bit of a welcome break from it all.

Yes, I believe this engine is the later version with the hydraulic tappets etc. On the the camblet cover theres a factory sticker with a date of 1994 on it. I've read that all 940s after 92 had the improvements such as the hydraulic tappets. I'm not sure what all of those improvements are as there seems to be a lot of difference in opinion when I had a brief look at a link that took me to a Volvo forum.
A few people have asked why don't I put something like a 1.9 TDI in it. The answer is because they're not 6 cylinder......you just can't beat the sound of a 6 cylinder turbo diesel. The D24 TIC sounds great with straight through stainless pipes.
I'm still on a learning curve with these engines, so any tips, pointers or advice would be very welcome.

Dan

I would agree with that; here's mine from 13 (how can that be?!) years ago, which I've still got. I was in the middle of a minor welding job by your standards, hence the missing panel.



I've had it for 15 years so picked up a bit of knowledge, so would be interested to see how much the Volvo version differs. 

This is a thread that really just keeps giving.

Every time I check in, it’s a grin maker.

Thanks.

I have a pump timing kit from when I did the camblet last year. The kit also came with the bar that locks the rear of the camshaft......but I don't have a belt tension gauge 🤔🤔

I've read that the Volvo intercooler won't fit the LT? Apparently the LT needs a long narrow one that sit across the panel under the grille. Might be interested in the pipe work though, as very little of it came with the engine 👍

The seller claimed he had nothing else left.....but I did wonder about the gearbox myself.  If I'm right, I believe they were fitted with the M90 box?? Apparently a very strong gearbox. I wondered if I could adapt the gear linkages on the truck to work with one of those? It's all very well swapping out the engine for something with a bit more power, but my gearbox and diff are still going to hold it back.

Totally agree with the ‘because it’s a straight six’ justification. My experience with mine has been (bear in mind I parked the car four years ago) that it was a wonderful characterful engine that was actually reasonably economical and pretty reliable. Mine had done over 200k miles when I stripped the parts car and I did another 60k before I parked it. Insurance for a 23 year old with a 2.4 litre modified car was too much for me but it will be back sometime and better than ever. I hope you have as good a time with yours as I did with mine.

Rich

and agreed, ultimately it makes sense to do all of this work now, do the extension using the truck and then convert into a race car transporter..

Well.....the max figures I've found for the original non turbo D24 ( ACT ) are 68 BHP at 3400 rpm and 107 lbf at 1600-1800 rpm......all of that explains why it's so hard to overtake cyclists....seriously.  The Volvo D24 TIC max figures are ......( they vary amongst engine codes, but these figures are for the variant I believe I have )....... 127 BHP at 4650 rpm and 184 lbf at 2400 rpm. So not breathtaking power, but hopefully a very noticeable difference once it's in the truck. Obviously the gearing on the truck doesn't help with any sort of speed, but of course geared for heavy loads. I might look into a better ratio diff......if I can find one.

The power being at higher rpm will be better matched to the low gearing for performance, worse for fuel economy in top gear and nvh, but in many other respects it's probably not the vehicle for long motorway journeys or a refined driving experience anyway.

I regularly drive a Transit with 110ps and that flies along but it does have around 220lbft of torque.

Right......this up date is going to be picture heavy. I normally write a load of waffle and add pictures in between. On this occasion, the work I've done was so intricate that I really don't know where to start? I think that my explaining might actually confuse matters. Not only that, but where I've been working on the truck at every spare moment I have, everytime I think I'm about to catch up with it all here on Retro Rides, I end up weeks.... even months.... behind. I might add a bit here and there, but for the best part, I'll let the pictures do the talking. Of course any questions or thoughts are welcome.

All rusty parts that you'll see where either put into the acid bath prior to paint or treated with phosphoric acid and rust encapsulation paint applied.

So......here we go.

This is a continuation from 3 updates ago where I was sorting the rotten roof/door frame/windscreen pillar.























































I then put in some steel to use as a guide to insure that everything stayed straight and in line.....























After getting the gutter panel to fit right.......






It turned out not to.....sort of. The problem was that the panel highlight by the black arrow should be in line with the piece highlighted in red. It was out by at least a centimetre.....










So.......I made another one.........












Here you can see the width difference........







That's better.......








































I made up this grey structural section.......which I later replaced......


















Using a piece of tube and my Jack handle, I kind of dimple dyed the hole I'd cut for the wiring harness that go up to the roof....
















































































I then remade that structural panel as I originally made it to short......































That's all for now. I'll dump a load more pictures on soon.