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May 26, 2020 14:37:40 GMT
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Hi , I’m toying with the idea of putting a mk1 mx5 1.8 NA engine and box in something old (won’t disclose just yet but something 1970s ) Is there a pin out drawing or can anyone advise me the best way to run it on it’s std Inlet and gubbins ? ( I will be removing the air con power steering and all that ) I would like to know if they are as easy as say putting a zetec in wiring wise ? Can I use the std ecu ? Or I am assuming I can have a stand alone management running the std inlet and sensors ? Any advice or wiring diagrams or just how you would do it keeping it on the std Inlet would be great. I am just thinking aloud here and sensibly thinking before I tuck in and realise that ITBs are an easier option but ££ .... Thanks in advance chaps  |
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May 26, 2020 14:55:05 GMT
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Also are there any factory options for a front bowl sump just in case the original rear bowl one is not suited to my suspension xmember set up ?
Thanks again
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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May 26, 2020 15:03:05 GMT
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Got my 1.8 (from something around 1994 vintage) running reasonably easily after stripping bits from an original full car loom. Made a few changes along the way and found it best to keep the original "big" fuse box even if half the cables aren't needed (like headlamps). I used this: rusefi.com/wiki/index.php?title=Vehicle:Mazda_Miata_1994 which is nearly right as it's for a US spec car (so doesn't have an ECU fault lamp). Still to plug some things back into the system such as refitting the clutch switch and speedo sensor. Haven't had it on the road yet mind you but don't forsee any problems. Haven't found a front bowl sump - haven't looked at the Mazda 323 in case they use one. If yours has an immobiliser (mine had the remnants of a third party one), I believe you need the matching bits (ECU, key and module). |
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Last Edit: May 26, 2020 15:05:19 GMT by Phil H
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OGDB
Part of things
Posts: 544 
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May 27, 2020 14:25:09 GMT
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They’re very popular in the kit car circles at the moment. I’m pretty sure SATURN has a PDF with ECU pin outs so that the bits that aren’t required can be cut out.
I will have a look through my stash of info and get back to you. Alternatively somewhere like “LocostBuilders” May be worth an ask as there are a lot of guys in there running these engines.
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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May 27, 2020 14:27:42 GMT
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I started at the ECU plug and worked back - that covered a lot of it.
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I did have the full wiring diagrams a few years ago, so will try and dig them out) as I'm using the same engine although have been wondering about going ITB and programmable on the long standing(suffering) Cortina project.
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2014 - Audi A6 Avant 3.0Tdi Quattro
1958 - Chevrolet Apache Panel Truck
1959 - Plymouth Custom Suburban
1952 - Chevrolet 2dr Hardtop
1985 - Ford Econoline E350 Quadravan
2009 - Ovlov V70 2.5T
1970 - Cortina Mk2 Estate
2007 - Fiat Ducato LWB 120Multijet
2014 - Honda Civic 2.2 CTDi ES
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Cheers guys . I found another option was to run a canems ecu , which comes with a loom and map and also he can do away with the maf and run it on map (space is tight ) . Could be a better option as less stress , mess and will be fully mappable too ..
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 983
Club RR Member Number: 13
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With the 1.6 I used I stripped the loom of anything I didn't want, lengthened and shortened wires to match where I wanted to put the fuse boxes and used the original ecu. My logic was that if it worked in the mx5 and didn't in the herald it would be my wiring at fault and I could trace where it was. Then slowly I changed the ecu, got rid of the airflow sensor, fitted a turbo, etc. Everything was done in stages and I think that's what made it simple. I didn't want to do too much in one go.
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