murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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I'll upload some pics of a project that's already "finished"... Just something to kill the time while Covid passes. The date on these pics is the 23/3/11 I bought the car after someone called me and asked me if i was interested... Gone are those days Quite a rusty old thing, but it was complete and largely untouched.
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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May 19, 2020 10:05:51 GMT
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May 19, 2020 10:38:53 GMT
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Fantastic fabrication going on there, Please keep the updates coming, With work to that standard it'll be a great looking car when completed,
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BMW E39 525i Sport BMW E46 320d Sport Touring (now sold on.) BMW E30 325 Touring (now sold on.) BMW E30 320 Cabriolet (Project car - currently for sale.)
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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Fantastic fabrication going on there, Please keep the updates coming, With work to that standard it'll be a great looking car when completed, Thanks
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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Tank off for cleaning... With it being parked up for all that time and not being run there was a black (very)sticky substance in the tank. Must have come from leaving fuel in the tank for all that time and when it's evaporated, it's left the black stuff... Maybe the Ethanol in the fuel here. Rocker cover off for a clean and a paint Then onto the wiring... Original FoMoCo ... lol New fuel pump New turbo The prop shaft was made to mate the x-flow gearbox to the AE86 axle
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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A bit of axle oil and gearbox oil in... I had these 2 different oils sitting around half full so i decided to mix them both up and put it in. The rear axle has a plated LSD with 4.3 ratio CWP. The 1300 crossflow will never make full use of the LSD but it's there for future if i decide to swap out the engine. A bit more wiring. The standard indicator stalk was broken and had been bypassed for a series of other switches to get the indicators and main beam to work, so i put the wiring back to standard when i fitted the new stalk. I was never a big fan of the coilovers on the car and when i came to lower it down to the height i wanted to run it at i found that the coilovers had been made too long and wouldn't be anywhere near the height i wanted to run at. So i decided to take them off and make some more. These are the ones i run on all the cars i build. Made from Nissan Sylvia S13 hubs. The use the standard TCA/ARB and steering rack. The good thing about these is that the bearing carrier is bigger, it is also raised up, i make the steering arms to the right length for plenty of lock and the top mount and ARB mount at not in line with each other which means they have KPI (king pin inclination) built into them, which is a serious advantage over the the standard struts. Turn in is a lot nicer and you don't need to run as much static camber and even wheels that go out of balance do not shake the steering wheel. You can also see in this picture i had some camber adjustable top mounts made for them too.
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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The wheels/tyres combo didn't clear the rear arches, and would catch with any suspension travel, even after i ground the lip a little to help. If it was 10mm shorter per side it would be perfect. So off with the axle... The axle could go shorter a maximum of 40mm per side and still retain the leaf spring mounts. So in the boot of the Mk2 and off to the engineering shop. The shafts were cut back and resplined. The axle was shortened to the maximum of 40mm per side (total 80mm) and the final length of the axle casing is 46 inches. The thinking is, it was going to be shortened anyway, the price is the same whether it's 10mm or 40mm and you can always space the wheel out, but you can never 'space' the wheel in. And ready to go back on.
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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Last Edit: Jun 6, 2020 1:35:16 GMT by murf
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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These were the wheels that i'd spotted... 13x8 et-7 and after a quick measure up they looked like they would fit nicely. Before I could take the car to the wheel shop i still had some jobs left to do. I decided to tackle that caster problem next... here's a standard ARB next to the one i modified. Standard Modified And that got the front wheels back to where they should be. But the wheels were still lost under the arches...
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Last Edit: Jun 7, 2020 7:00:21 GMT by murf
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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Good looking Escort murf . What did you use to machine the ARB? I’ve been toying with the idea of doing this on my Cortina but the only way I could think of doing it was to make up an extended holesaw without the centre drill.
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Last Edit: Jun 9, 2020 7:25:20 GMT by jonsey
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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Good looking Escort murf . What did you use to machine the ARB? I’ve been toying with the idea of doing this on my Cortina but the only way I could think of doing it was to make up an extended holesaw without the centre drill. It was done on a milling machine at the engineering shop. Mill, turn, mill, turn. Some people have said they have done it with a grinder and a file to finish it off. Time to go and look at those wheels... And look at what the owner of the tyre shop has... lol I tried the wheels on the car to start with and made sure they weren't catching on the arches or when turning, when everything was cleared he swapped the tyres from the 7 inch rims over to the 8s and fitted the wheels... And i stopped off at the park on the way home to take a few pics... I liked the gold centers on the old wheels better, but the deeper dish on the new wheels in nice Maybe we'll paint the centres at a later date.
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Last Edit: Jun 10, 2020 2:08:35 GMT by murf
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murf
Part of things
Posts: 269
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