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Hi,
I've purchased some Deox Gel on the basis that a lot of people seem to have had really good results with it and it comes highly recommended, however, I have tried it and the results so far seem poort.
I've tired it on some smal areas of rust on a door frame that i'm reskinning, the area were thoroughly cleaned up with a wire wheel and then I rubbed them over with some 80 grit paper.
I followed the instructions to the letter (including cleaing with hot soapy water and then clean water does seem counter intuitive but people all said you need to follow the instructions so I did). I then covered it over and left over night, removed the covering cleaned it up and it wasn't much better so did the same again.
I've just removed the covering again and cleaned it up and its hardly any better, am I expecting too much of it? I was expecting all the pitted areas to go back to shiny clean metal.
I know some people said it could take upto three applications and i'm happy to try a third but the results from the first two don't encourage me that the third one is going to suddenly resolve everything.
Any idea on what I might be missing?
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jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 681
Club RR Member Number: 121
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Deox Gel - Poor Resultsjmsheahan
@jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member 121
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I've been dabbling with the Deox Gel and the Deox C powder stuff recently. I've found the C to be a little better of the two to be honest, cleaning up rusty bolts and brackets with ease but obviously you can't dunk a door  Things I've found help are cleaning as much grease etc off first, a little mechanical abrasion as you've done, and then just leaving it. Sometimes for days at a time. It's a slow process. |
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I've been dabbling with the Deox Gel and the Deox C powder stuff recently. I've found the C to be a little better of the two to be honest, cleaning up rusty bolts and brackets with ease but obviously you can't dunk a door Things I've found help are cleaning as much grease etc off first, a little mechanical abrasion as you've done, and then just leaving it. Sometimes for days at a time. It's a slow process. I could dunk it in the bath but divorce is expensive! |
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vanpeebles
Part of things
I am eastbound in pursuit of a white Lamborghini, this is not a recording.
Posts: 978
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I tried the gel and didn’t rate it all at. The powder mix is awesome though.
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MiataMark
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,961
Club RR Member Number: 29
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Deox Gel - Poor ResultsMiataMark
@garra
Club Retro Rides Member 29
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I've had good results using citric acid (buy as a powder), only useful if you can soak the parts I used it to clean up brake calipers and discs,
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1990 Mazda MX-52012 BMW 118i (170bhp) - white appliance 2011 Land Rover Freelander 2 TD4 2003 Land Rover Discovery II TD52007 Alfa Romeo 159 Sportwagon JTDm
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Tried it. Rubbish.
And Krust. curse word.
Hammerite is pitiful.
Loctite, genolite, fertan, rustoleum & VHT converters all junk.
Even tried Aldi's on the basis of, it couldnt be worse!!
About to try Hydrate 80......
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For paint-on cleaning, I've used phosphoric acid with good results. Paint it on to the rusty bit, agitate it, don't let it dry, agitate it a bit more, and it's possible to get back to clean pitted metal. It's a lot of work, but the only way (other than blasting) to get it back to clean steel that I've find to work. I bought it in the shape of a Hydroponics product called "ph down".
I've been using Hydrate 80 recently, which I think might be OK. I must admit I've tried it because it has good reports, notably from @grumpynorthener, and based on using it over time. I think I'd still rather get everything clean, or cut out and replace, but sometimes it takes too long.
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I buy phosphoric acid at 30% solution which is about 3 times the strength of Jenolite. A gallon is only £16ish (compare with a small bottle of Jenolite…) and it works brilliantly.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-(
2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap
V8 Humber Hawk
1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD
1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 765 
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Deox Gel - Poor ResultsRitchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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I’ve started using the water/washing crystals electrolysis trick in a bucket and it’s loads better than using chemicals I think.
Costs pennies aswell.
Worth a go if you can fit what you want to do in a bucket.
If you got a big enough box you could do half of the frame at a time possibly.
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Last Edit: May 6, 2020 18:04:15 GMT by Ritchie
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For paint-on cleaning, I've used phosphoric acid with good results. Paint it on to the rusty bit, agitate it, don't let it dry, agitate it a bit more, and it's possible to get back to clean pitted metal. It's a lot of work, but the only way (other than blasting) to get it back to clean steel that I've find to work. I bought it in the shape of a Hydroponics product called "ph down". I've been using Hydrate 80 recently, which I think might be OK. I must admit I've tried it because it has good reports, notably from @grumpynorthener, and based on using it over time. I think I'd still rather get everything clean, or cut out and replace, but sometimes it takes too long. Deox Gel is a very, very slow process - I like to clean up has much as I can through mechanical abrasion - but sometimes you just cant access / get to what you want to get at with the machines / kit that you have - a good delouse / clean up & application of Hydrate 80 will sort the problem and I have never had rust creep back through it after using it either - I will have the very same issues on a pair of door shells in the near future and I know that I can rely on the Hydrate 80 to solve the problem |
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Thanks Grumpynorthener, i've ordered some Hydrate 80 to try, I will see how it goes.
Looking at the instructions it can be sprayed or brushed, what do you do, it seems that brushing is preferable.
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give the deox gel a good scrub with a wire brush before you remove it
and try and put it on as thick as possible it does work just not quickly
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Thanks Grumpynorthener, i've ordered some Hydrate 80 to try, I will see how it goes. Looking at the instructions it can be sprayed or brushed, what do you do, it seems that brushing is preferable. I brush it on - its a lot more controllable that way - a couple of neat coats - if you apply it harshly and leave runs etc in it - its hellish to knock / flat back - once dried you can just lightly key it with a mild abrasive and then go over it with primer / final paint finish as required - but you can also leave it for long / extensive periods until you get around to final paint - which is of a great benefit when you are undertaking a longer term restoration / project |
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Thanks Grumpy northerner, I will bush it on and see how I go with it.
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Actually, now I think about it, perhaps the gel I used was Kurust gel rather than Deox, I can't remember now.
I did read about a trick with citric acid when trying to use it for areas that you can't soak, which was to mix in some wallpaper paste powder to the acid, to make it into a kind of gel. There was a need to keep it covered, presumably to stop it drying out. I never got around to trying it.
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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I can confirm what grumpynortherner says about flatting back Hydrate 80. It's surprisingly hard and flatting out the brush strokes is laborious. I'd use it only where you have bare metal and try and get it as smooth as possible.
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I can confirm what grumpynortherner says about flatting back Hydrate 80. It's surprisingly hard and flatting out the brush strokes is laborious. I'd use it only where you have bare metal and try and get it as smooth as possible. So how far can you sand it back? I assume that if you can see a continuous coating of it then its all good but if you break through then the benefit is gone and it needs to be redone? |
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lebowski
Part of things
Hillman Avenger, Clan Clover
Posts: 476
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If you sand it a lot and break through you'll be left with bright metal most likely so I wouldn't worry about it, unless you'll be leaving it for a long time before painting.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,191
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Deox Gel - Poor ResultsChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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May 11, 2020 21:09:45 GMT
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I'd say almost a day. It does leave a very durable layer however.
I did the V-Brace on my M3 with Hydrate 80. It seems to be doing the job on a vulnerable part of the car.
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Last Edit: May 11, 2020 21:10:43 GMT by ChasR
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I can confirm what grumpynortherner says about flatting back Hydrate 80. It's surprisingly hard and flatting out the brush strokes is laborious. I'd use it only where you have bare metal and try and get it as smooth as possible. So how far can you sand it back? I assume that if you can see a continuous coating of it then its all good but if you break through then the benefit is gone and it needs to be redone? I literally just flat back over it to provide a suitable key for what is going on top of it - no real great effort to get a perfect flat finish on it - if its a primer I would let that do the job of covering the surface imperfections on the Hydrate rather than attempt to flat the surface imperfections on the Hydrate out |
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