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My 200tdi turbo has some worrying amount of wobble on the shaft (Fnarr) which i was considering swapping the innards for. Which company did you get yours from?
On the imperial side of things, my 93 range rover has some imperial fixings on it, rear caliper bolts amongst others.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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I clicked the link out of curiosity, "Race" specification,  ? |
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
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I think you have to take their terminology with a pinch of salt. “Race” is how they describe all their upgraded turbos, not just Land-Rover ones. 🤣🤣
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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thomfr
Part of things
Trying to assemble the Duett again..
Posts: 694
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Did you consider using slightly thicker alloy plates for your floors? Then moisture (and most corrosion, beside contact corrosion with ferro) would not be an issue.
Thom
Ps: ordered the pliers you used for brake lines for use on my Volvo Duett project.
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73' Alfa Giulia Super
64' Volvo Duett
65' Volvo Duett
67' Volvo Amazon 123GT
09' Ford Focus 1.8
20' VW ID4
71' Benelli Motorella
65' Cyrus Speciaal
The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Thicker floors? No, not really. They’re not big panels, and they already have heavy mats on them. The bulk of the reverberating comes from the doors, hard-top sides and roof panels. I have another roof, that has a thermal skin on it, and headliner, and I am going to change the sides for some with windows in, both of which should make quite a difference to how it resonates. When I replace the doors they will get some deadening mat and trims, which should also help.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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thomfr
Part of things
Trying to assemble the Duett again..
Posts: 694
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Thicker only because of the flexibility of alloy. But I get your point concerning vibrations etc. From other panels to be the next point of attention 👍
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Last Edit: Dec 5, 2020 22:37:52 GMT by thomfr
73' Alfa Giulia Super
64' Volvo Duett
65' Volvo Duett
67' Volvo Amazon 123GT
09' Ford Focus 1.8
20' VW ID4
71' Benelli Motorella
65' Cyrus Speciaal
The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys
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I'm familiar with the older ironhead turbo aka 19J, but does the 200tdi also just have the "boost reference" going directly from the compressor housing to the actuator ?
if yes, you could get a noteworthy improvement in turbo efficiency using a boost controller, so that the actuator only sees your target boost, when you reach it, rather than creeping from the off. you can get brass manual ones for much cheapness (note i am not talking about "bleed valves")
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Yes, it’s basically the same as the earlier 19J setup. Do you mean something like this? link
If so I shall give it a go. 👍 |
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Couldn't you reference it to the manifold?
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Yes, it’s basically the same as the earlier 19J setup. Do you mean something like this? link
If so I shall give it a go. 👍 exactly that! with the standard layout the actuator sees boost from the off, so tends to creep the wastegate open before your target boost is reached (which is technically very simple, but wastes heat) |
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
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darrenhDo I read the blurb correctly; if I want to raise the boost pressure slightly, from 13 to 15 psi, I can do it with one of these rather than having to wind up the tension on the actuator?
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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darrenhDo I read the blurb correctly; if I want to raise the boost pressure slightly, from 13 to 15 psi, I can do it with one of these rather than having to wind up the tension on the actuator? Yeah you can do that, well thats basically its primary function, delaying the pressure applied to the actuator, to set the target boost |
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Last Edit: Dec 8, 2020 11:51:21 GMT by darrenh
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Cool. I shall get one.
You lot are a bad influence on me. 🤣 🤣
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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xfu990
Part of things
Posts: 78
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Dec 22, 2020 11:14:04 GMT
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I've had a couple of Turbo cartridges from these Guys, one standard Suzuki (PSA) 2.0 HDI and one "race" VW 1.9 TDI, no issues with either. They got quite insistent that the oil feed pipe was swapped out on the HDI if I wanted a warranty! The Suzuki had 5,000 mile oil changes on quality semi-synthetic oil all its life, I checked it and as expected it was clean as a whistle, the genuine new part was pennies anyway. The oil feed blockage has ruined many a HDI turbo. They are only 15 miles away from me and have an excellent local reputation. My reason for choosing them was that I didn't want any Chinese bits and they had a similar attitude. The standard Turbo has done another 50,000+ miles so far and the VW "race" turbo is still knocking about locally having since been sold on to a boy racer who shows it no mercy. Hope this helps alleviate any concerns. Truly excellent thread by the way, you have given me the inspiration to get my 1960 SWB Series 2 finished, just going out to fit a new rear prop to the 1990 Ninety (19J) I bought it 6 months ago  |
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Dec 22, 2020 14:58:48 GMT
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Good to hear.
My pipes and oil pump are all new with the engine build, and have only done the running in with fresh oil anyway. I am more than happy to take the risk that they're ok, particularly now you and others have confirmed that changing the pipes etc. is more to do with specific problems with a particular family of engines, rather than "must be done on anything, regardless".
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Dec 22, 2020 22:42:42 GMT
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How does it run with 28lbs of boost   |
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
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How does it run with 28lbs of boost I suspect pretty well, but not for long. 🤣🤣 I ran my old one at 16psi (1.1 bar), which is what the Discovery and Range Rovers run at, instead of the 10psi (0.7 bar) the Defenders do. The current one is sitting at 13 psi (0.9 bar), so someone has already tweaked it a bit. Hopefully, if I can get a day off when it’s not raining I’ll get the oil change and turbo swap done over the holidays. |
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Dec 28, 2020 12:50:36 GMT
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Well, I managed to find a bit of time yesterday, after the recent temptations of eating too much, watching films, Astro’s Playroom and the awful weather outside... Changed the oil and filter(s), and pulled this off:  Then fitted the recored one:  It’s quite fiddly access wise to get to the securing nuts, but I got there eventually. Pleased to report that the nasty growling noise on initial startup has disappeared, and the unit boosts up ok. It was only giving 11psi, so I tweaked the wastegate a little to get up to 13, but I will wait for the boost control valve I ordered the other day to arrive before I go any further. Initial impressions when driving are favourable. I’m not sure it really builds pressure any quicker/earlier than the old one, but it’s impossible to really tell just buzzing around lightly laden. The real test will come the first time it gets worked properly hard. Regardless, I’m pleased with how it has turned out, and I’m happier with the upgrade even if it’s only really a durability one rather than performance, over just buying a cheap pattern CHRA. |
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Boost control valve arrived, but not had a chance to fit it yet. Also, finally, got the seals for the gearbox selector shafts, so got those on, in and the top covers fitted.  No gasket on the top cover, so I always use a bit of Wellseal.   As with the front covers, the clutch actuating arm is normally unpainted (to be fair they’re usually well protected by being caked in oil), so these got cleaned, primed and painted in the same blue. Mmmm. Shiny.   Had to helicoil a couple of threads where the slave cylinder bolts up on one of them.  But that’s them done. The smaller main gearbox assembly has been wrapped up and put away (I may sell it, not really decided yet), and the bigger full assembly can sit on the bench for a bit until I next have the lorry out of the way of the access to the stores lean-to and can get it safely away too. Next jobs will be to address some bodywork and creature comfort issues. Need better weather though, or to sort somewhere else to paint than inside the garage, so that’ll likely be the end of updates here for a bit. Unless I break something; it is a Land-Rover after all. |
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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