ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,188
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
|
Right, as a few know here, the brake nipple has snapped in one of the new calipers that came with my M3 onto which I plan to fit a CSL (or the US folks, the ZCP. I suspect it snapped in transit to me. Annoying for sure! I know people will say use an Eezi-Out but I've had very limited success with them, and am aware that by design the broken metal inside can expand which can cause them to snap. I have tried a left-handed/reverse drill down there, but it's stuck well in there; the image shows the nipple as it lies in there at the moment. I'll see if I can get some better resolution images As you can see, there is very little to weld to. It's been suggested that I can either: - Get the caliper drilled out and retapped/helicoiled for a new nipple (not too keen on that idea I must admit!)
- Have a spark erosion chap work on this and have them remove it; this seems to be successful
To my knowledge, Big Redd won't touch calipers with snapped nipples like the above. I do have the factory calipers on my car which are the same (it's only carriers up front which differ between the CSL setup and mine up front), but it would be nice to keep the factory setup to one side/sold off if needby. So, which engineering shops, preferably near Warwick can do mail order?
|
|
|
|
|
slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
|
|
|
Get it nice and hot first. Rule one of getting out anything stubborn! If you are worried about the seals etc then submerge the bit you arnt heating in water while heating the broken bit. To be honest the first thing id try is welding a nut on it. Looks like theres plenty to get on.
If all else fails then drill and if that fails then helicoil (its fine if done properly, done several myself)
No need to EDM until you have snapped the easy out lol. EDM is for removing hard stuff you cant just drill.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
It will come in handy even if you never use it
|
|
stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,812
Club RR Member Number: 174
|
|
|
Shouldn't need a timesert if they can drill properly unless the threads have been damaged previously. It's towards the lower end of difficulty on the myriad of snapped fastners/glow plugs we have to drill out so any local engineering shop should be able to do it.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I think you're in the midlands?
If so I used tunnicliffe engineering in Hinckley some years back for a similar salvage, they tapped oversize and fitted the next size up nipple. Might be worth a call.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Try lightning machining in Banbury
|
|
- '88 MK2 Golf 1.3 c - '07 BMW E91 335d - '94 T4 1.9d
|
|
|
|
|
IME welding an oversize nut on and letting it cool usually works, I've done several and not damaged the housing or seals Has the advantage of localised heat too
|
|
|
|
Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 764
Club RR Member Number: 12
|
|
|
I agree with the heat idea, if you get it hot it should come out with careful use of an ezout. Just be very careful if thats an alloy caliper, if you've got a decent torch it's quite easy to melt the alloy and you won't expect it, it happens quickly.
|
|
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,188
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
|
Cheers all for the replies. The above photo wasn't very clear. So I've taken more now I have a little more time on my hands. As you can see slater and comfortablynumb, there's not alot (if anything really?) to weld onto. Or do you reckon there is just enough there? If you guys or another else has any ideas in mind, let me know.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
You night get a nut on top of it then fill the hole with weld, its possibly worth a try you can always drill it afterwards
|
|
It will come in handy even if you never use it
|
|
|
Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 764
Club RR Member Number: 12
|
|
|
Looks like there’s enough proud to weld a nut on. Just make sure it’s as clean as possible before you zap it to give it the best chance of holding.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
As winchman and Ritchie say, large enough nut, fill centre with weld, let cool and try Usually works for me, although you might have to have several goes at it before you get a result
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If you want to try weld, I'd put a non-plated washer on it, then Tig weld the washer to the remnants, then weld a nut to the washer.
This will protect the casting more and give a better chance of a decent weld to the broken nipple.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Send it away before you cock it up anymore. It’s a pet hate of mine having to get broken drills/taps/easyouts out of somebody else’s bodged jobs. So much easier to sort it out as it is now....😊 don't start welding on there unless you are proficient enough to weld two beads of water together....
|
|
Last Edit: Apr 9, 2020 17:41:00 GMT by Deleted
|
|
v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,748
|
|
|
As JohnnyBravo says, give the job to somebody before the calliper becomes un repairable.
|
|
Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style. Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,188
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
|
Apr 27, 2020 20:12:03 GMT
|
Well, I sent this off in the end. The other brake nipples were a pain to take out! The engineering shop just about managed to get the nipple out, with it sounding like a struggle. But it's time to refurbish the rest .
|
|
|
|
stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,812
Club RR Member Number: 174
|
|
|
Good news. As Johnny says if you're not confident it's best to not screw things up further. We had the world's most expensive rocker cover bolt thread repair in a Mini the other week. Would have been £15-20 to repair it if he'd have brought it in when he snapped the bolt in the head. As it was, drilled on the curse word, with a snapped easy out in the hole it ended up costing £200 and a Bigsert and 2 timeserts stacked in the hole because he'd managed to make the M6 hole a 13mm hole at the top.
|
|
|
|