goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,595
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Jul 12, 2020 17:51:55 GMT |
The repairs are looking great homersimpson. The lead loading came out well! As it's something I've no experience with, and I'm a bit cautious about the safety issues with lead dust all over the place, I tend to just try and avoid the lead loaded areas of my car!  |
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homersimpson
@homersimpson
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Jul 12, 2020 19:54:07 GMT |
The repairs are looking great homersimpson . The lead loading came out well! As it's something I've no experience with, and I'm a bit cautious about the safety issues with lead dust all over the place, I tend to just try and avoid the lead loaded areas of my car! I don't think the lead dust is too much of an issue if your only doing a small bit like I have, most of the lead removed was big shavings and it was really only the DA that would have created any fine dust but as lead is fairly heavy it should just settle on the floor.
Like a lot of things from the old days its not that bad for your if your careful, use the right PPE and don't do that much of it, of course if I was doing the whole car like this it would be a different story!
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homersimpson
@homersimpson
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Jul 12, 2020 20:02:18 GMT |
This was the simple wooden former I made using a piece of plywood and some oak lipping.
This is the panel so far, it will need a bit more work with the hammer and then a light skim of filler but it will work fine and only took an hour to make so far. I couldn't finish it off as it was a nice day today and I had to be careful with how much hammering I was doing.
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Jul 12, 2020 20:07:42 GMT |
The repairs are looking great homersimpson . The lead loading came out well! As it's something I've no experience with, and I'm a bit cautious about the safety issues with lead dust all over the place, I tend to just try and avoid the lead loaded areas of my car! I don't think the lead dust is too much of an issue if your only doing a small bit like I have, most of the lead removed was big shavings and it was really only the DA that would have created any fine dust but as lead is fairly heavy it should just settle on the floor.
Like a lot of things from the old days its not that bad for your if your careful, use the right PPE and don't do that much of it, of course if I was doing the whole car like this it would be a different story!
I also did some leadloading on my Rover P5 but only used a bodyfile and did not sand it because of the lead dust. I remember there are newer types of car body lead which are less harmfull and can be sanded. Your work looks very nice and is thorough. Car will be very good when done! Peter
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homersimpson
@homersimpson
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Jul 14, 2020 10:47:40 GMT |
A bit more an update, first I fitted the nearside tonneau panel which I had previously set up ready for welding.
I fitted the rear spat and trial fitted the outerpanel to make sure it was all in the right place then plug welded it into place and ground it up.
I did the same to the section of it accessed from in the boot.
I then welded the tonneau panel to the inner rear panel and fitted the outer wing repair panel.
Next I moved onto the inner rear panel and I drilled out the petrol tank supporting bracket so I could sort out the corrosion in the base of the panel.
I cut out the rot, welded in a new section and put the petrol tank bracket back in.
This is what it looks like underneath, I need to have a bit of a grinding session.
The finished tonneau panel and outer wing repair, next I need to fit the middle/outer rear panel (the one I made with the ribs in it) and the boot lock panel before moving on to the rear valance and then repariing the nearside inner wing.
A welders work is never done, still at least I have a nice new shiny 2m x 1m sheet of metal to work with, I was asked what it was for by the bloke who delivered it and I told him it was a flat packed MK2 Jag!
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peteh1969
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,537 
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Jul 14, 2020 11:02:57 GMT |
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What rust prevention will you be putting on before you close the panels off?
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homersimpson
@homersimpson
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Jul 14, 2020 11:57:41 GMT |
What rust prevention will you be putting on before you close the panels off? I use hammerite on the surfaces where i'm not welding and a zinc based weld through spray on all the seams i'm welding to. If you look at the door skins you can see what I did there and I tend to do the same on the enclosed sections.
Once its completed I will give it a good dose of a cavity wax.
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teaboy
Posted a lot
Make tea, not war.
Posts: 1,011
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Jul 14, 2020 12:51:06 GMT |
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The work you are doing is really good, painting it with hammerite, not so good...
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Jul 14, 2020 12:58:09 GMT |
The work you are doing is really good, painting it with hammerite, not so good... First point - It’s better than nothing and aside from it’s tendency to chip when applied to external surfaces. Second point - yes there are better paints out there but see point one Third point - I made a set of steel frames for a large garden gate 12 years ago - painted them with hammerite - they’ve been in all weather since - had to do a bit of work on them this year and I thought at same time I’ll probably need to repaint - however they didn’t need it so I didn’t repaint In a cavity not exposed to elements or impact damage see point one |
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teaboy
Posted a lot
Make tea, not war.
Posts: 1,011
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Jul 14, 2020 13:28:30 GMT |
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Better than nothing for sure Bstardo.
It’s still poop.
I’m sure it used to be better in the olden days but they must have changed it.
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peteh1969
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,537
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Jul 14, 2020 14:00:10 GMT |
What rust prevention will you be putting on before you close the panels off? I use hammerite on the surfaces where i'm not welding and a zinc based weld through spray on all the seams i'm welding to. If you look at the door skins you can see what I did there and I tend to do the same on the enclosed sections.
Once its completed I will give it a good dose of a cavity wax.
I have used Bilt & Hamber Hidrate 80 as a lot on here have and that does kill the rust and stop it in it's tracks you can spray it through a gun and it works out Infinitely cheaper than Hammerite as others have said Hammerite is ok but not the best. |
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homersimpson
@homersimpson
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Jul 14, 2020 14:13:26 GMT |
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I know some people don't like hammerite but to be honest i've used it for years and its always been fine on everything i've used it for whereas the alternatives tends to be more expensive and don't to me offer any advantage.
If/when I have a problem I will look at something else but for now its fine for me.
The thing is that the rear panel was originally bare metal inside and although the bottom has rotted out in places the upper section is absolutly fine and its 53 years old. If I hammerite it then waxoil it or similar its going to see me out and as my old dad said when I was replacing the 90 year old floor joists in my house with new ones and was treating the ends and putting damp mebrane under them, "how much longer than the old ones do you want them to last for?".
The reality is that once rebuilt unless something happens like the car gets used every day all year round which is highly unlikely then the car will probably last me out and i'm only 39.
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Jul 14, 2020 14:58:03 GMT |
Better than nothing for sure Bstardo. It’s still poop. I’m sure it used to be better in the olden days but they must have changed it. I’m in agreement there it definately isn’t as good as it once was See Nitromors (spl) for similar statements along the lines of a “shadow of it’s former self” I mean it used to actually bubble up the paint - any paint!!!! |
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Jul 14, 2020 15:02:42 GMT |
as my old dad said when I was replacing the 90 year old floor joists in my house with new ones and was treating the ends and putting damp mebrane under them, "how much longer than the old ones do you want them to last for?". I agree with your dad I replaced a fence which was 40 years old with exactly the same - if it lasts another 40 years I’ll be happy (also very likely dead or not living in the same house - 56 now) |
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teaboy
Posted a lot
Make tea, not war.
Posts: 1,011
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Jul 14, 2020 16:44:43 GMT |
I’m in agreement there it definately isn’t as good as it once was See Nitromors (spl) for similar statements along the lines of a “shadow of it’s former self” I mean it used to actually bubble up the paint - any paint!!!! Ever since they made Nitromors environmentally friendly it also became paint friendly. I've just got some of this.  I replaced a fence which was 40 years old with exactly the same - if it lasts another 40 years I’ll be happy (also very likely dead - 56 now) You will be huffing and puffing replacing that when you're 96.  |
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Deleted
@Deleted
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Jul 14, 2020 17:18:43 GMT |
The problem with Hammerite is that has already stated it chips easily but the larger problem is that when it does chip it allows moisture to ingress under its surface virtually acting has a capillary - it all goes unseen until its all but too late - its work of the devil too - being completely incompatible with just about every other paint finish - it also requires its own branded thinners to clean the brushes up too - the manufactures of Hammerite also produce & market Waxoyl - another useless product that is sold on claims of how good it is but has no laboratory or field testing data published to prove the claims - any paint is better nothing ? - not likely when you are spending thousands of hours restoring a vehicle but protecting it from rust with comprised products - its not something that you will ever catch me doing but each to their own and all of that  |
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Last Edit: Jul 14, 2020 17:19:58 GMT by Deleted
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firenzaboxer
@firenzaboxer
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Jul 14, 2020 17:55:43 GMT |
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We’ve always used the hammerite ‘rust beater’ in beige (well it says it’s beige but we’ve nicknamed it pink). Unlike normal hammerite it doesn’t chip; it stays pliant, and is a sod to get off once cured. We’ve used it on cars for years; I’m sure there are better options but it’s done us ok. No paint removes the need to wax box sections though.
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nze12
Part of things
Posts: 106
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Jul 14, 2020 19:45:55 GMT |
" when it does chip it allows moisture to ingress under its surface virtually acting has a capillary" I'm led to believe powder coating should be considered in this way too? |
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1986 BMW E30 refreshed to original spec
1973 BMW E12 520 converting to Motorsport 530
1982 XJS V12 converting to 5 speed manual
1990 BMW E30 316i refreshing to move on
Many landscaping projects overriding above!
Cogito cogito ergo cogito sum!
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Jul 14, 2020 20:06:49 GMT |
" when it does chip it allows moisture to ingress under its surface virtually acting has a capillary" I'm led to believe powder coating should be considered in this way too? Indeed but you can "hot zinc galv" components exposed to high traffic prior to powder coating - even if it chips it doesn't rust |
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Back to the Jag .... or, at least away from paint .... does ANY of the "lead" sold today for auto-body repairs still contain actual lead?
John
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