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Aug 31, 2022 12:53:02 GMT
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The Satajet NR95 is a good gun from what I understand, the only thing is I was taught by my friend (retired professional painter) really you should use a different topcoat gun to the primer one as a primer gun tends to have a bigger needle (I use 1.8 or 2.2 for primer depending on what type it is and 1.3 for basecoat and laquer in the good gun I borrowed).
Also you have to be careful that you don't get any bits of primer coming out of the gun into the basecoat/laquer. You could probably get away with this by completely stripping the gun down and cleaning it before applying the top coat whereas a professional wouldn't have time to do that on every job.
The drop coat is fairly simple from the bits i've done in metallic (not a huge amount), you just stand a bit further back and dust on a light coat to get the metal flakes to stand up.
Jaguar Pearl Grey in the above picture seems to be a modern XF/XJ colour but becareful when ordering as in the 1960's Jaguar Pearl grey was a light grey solid colour (my 3.8 MK2 is Pearl Grey). You don't want to end up with 5 litres of the wrong stuff which I nearly did when I bought the paint my Econonjag and asked for Jaguar Opalescent Blue when in fact I wanted Opalesecent Silver Blue. Fortuantly the guy mixing it mentioned it was a dark blue and I realised my mistake!
I noticed on your website that you are having trouble getting the bonnet to fit on the side, I had this on mine and to resolve it I used a long flat thin piece of wood at the tight point and used it to bend the bonnet to fit. It only needs to move slightly to provide a good gap so a bit at a time is the best way. If your careful it should give a lovely fit without any need for any filler work. The problem we have now is we are trying to achieve a standard of panel fit that Jaguar would never have dreamed of when they new.
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Aug 31, 2022 15:40:00 GMT
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Cheers, Homer. It's really useful to have someone who's a few steps ahead of me to learn from your experiences. My SataJet has a 1.3 nozzle/needle. I've had to crank up the pressure some to get the primer to flow easily, although I guess I could have added some more thinners instead. Might try that when I’m doing the rest. I’d rather have the correct nozzle for the colour/clear and struggle with the primer, rather than the other way around. I had the gun given to me, so I was lucky there. I do tend to strip the gun after every use now. I didn't for a while, instead just running an egg-cup full of thinners through it. But then when using it, I started to get a bit of splatter. A good clean resolved it, so now I clean it every time, regardless of how much of a PITA it is. As you say, especially important on the top coats.
Oh, glad you mentioned the paint actually, I will double (triple!) check they have the correct one.
Also glad you resolved the issue with your bonnet. I didn’t give it a great deal of thought, but bending it over some wood was something I had briefly considered, but didn’t want the edge to simply crease in the centre, instead of creating a soft curve. So I put that on hold for a bit to concentrate on getting the whole car primered. I guess gently, gently is the way.
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Last Edit: Aug 31, 2022 15:41:16 GMT by voucherboy
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Aug 31, 2022 15:44:38 GMT
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For spraying primer I just use a cheap spraygun like the ones you get at Screwfix/Toolstation, the finish is usually fine and they are going to be sanded back anyway.
One other thing to consider using is polyester spray filler, I always use this over body filler and then sand it back with 180, it gets rid of scratches and pin holes ready for the filler primer coat. The product I use is called Upol reface, you do need a larger needle to get it out though, I use 1.8 or 2.2 depending on what gun I have to hand that works.
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Sept 2, 2022 21:49:32 GMT
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I've had a bit more time on Econo Jag this week and have cleaned and painted the gearbox, the gearbox has a couple of handy bolt holes in the top so I could hang it on the engine hoist.
I also hung up a few bits to paint.
This was it all painted.
After a couple of days to let the paint the harden I unmasked the gearbox
I then fitted the bellhousing to the engine.
One thing to make sure of is there is a loose metal piece that goes into the gearbox and transfers oil from the gearbox to the torque convertor, I've never left one out (so far!) but I understand if you do the car won't move. On this car the piece had stayed in the torque converter so I fished it out and put it in the gearbox.
I then used the hoist to lower the gearbox into position and slid it onto the engine, I forgot to take a picture before putting everything away so this is the best one I got of it.
The next task is to finish the brake pipes in the engine bay and fit the heater cables and then I can look to put the engine in which will be a major milestone.
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Sept 6, 2022 19:22:19 GMT
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I fitted some of the brake pipes and then ran our of pipe and I fitted the heater cable outers to make it easier to fit them in future. By this point I was sick of falling over the engine so I thought I might as well put it in.
With the car jacked right up I slid the engine under the car on its trolley.
I removed the engine mounts that were loosely bolted into place.
Then with a bit of jiggery pokery in it went, its bolted to the front mounts and the rear is sat on the spring at the back of the gearbox. I need to get the stabiliser mount at the rear of the engine to get that bolted in so the engine is fully fitted.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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That's always a nice moment when the engine goes back in isn't it!
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Great milestone Homer. And I know what you mean about always tripping up when the engine is out!
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Sept 7, 2022 12:46:49 GMT
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That's always a nice moment when the engine goes back in isn't it! Yes it was a great feeling, just got to hope that it runs well once installed  |
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Sept 7, 2022 12:48:04 GMT
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Great milestone Homer. And I know what you mean about always tripping up when the engine is out! Yes the damn thing is in the way and I can probably now move the engine hoist to my mums out of the way making even more space to work in the garage, just waiting for payday to buy the next lot of bits now  |
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jehu
Part of things
Posts: 98 
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Sept 12, 2022 13:02:53 GMT
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I don't know how you guys manage in such cramped spaces, I would break an ankle or drop things on the car if I only had this sort of limited space. It looks like you had to step outside to get a photo of the car Homer. I wont complain next time I have to close the car door to get around the hoist frame. Great to see the motor in. |
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2016 Audi Q3
1976 MGB
1968 Daimler 250 V8
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Sept 12, 2022 20:47:28 GMT
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I don't know how you guys manage in such cramped spaces, I would break an ankle or drop things on the car if I only had this sort of limited space. It looks like you had to step outside to get a photo of the car Homer. I wont complain next time I have to close the car door to get around the hoist frame. Great to see the motor in. Yes i'm afraid that compared to my old garage this one is tiny but its still the biggest we could find with the type of house we bought, sadly a lot of people tend to convert the garages into rooms and they are sized to be only just big enough to put a car (or in this case two) in.
Still its insulated and its a double so i'm still very lucky compared to what a lot of other people have to work with.
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Sept 18, 2022 20:48:15 GMT
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I've been having a bit of a look at the exhaust manifolds, when I took them off the car I just removed both manifolds together with the downpipe (its a common one on the 2.4) attached as one complete unit.
The downpipes were rotten at the bottom and so it all just got put in the shed as a unit. When we moved house I tried to remove the pipes but they wouldn't budge so I cut the pipes off to leave just the manifolds to make them easier to remove.
When I tried removing the bolts some snapped off and some brought the studs out leaving very little in the way of thread in the manifold.
This is one of the manifolds I started with.
First task was to cut off as much of the old exhaust as I could with the angle grinder
Once I had it in this position I drilled a hold diagonally through the flange and used a chisel (gently) to remove the remains of the pipe. you need to be really careful as the manifolds are quite fragile and can break. This is what I had left.
I then drilled and tapped the studs (this is the other side which had all four broken off) and helicoiled them.
Next I fitted new studs.
After this I then removed the remains of the old ceramic coating, this is really tough (as you would expect) but had cracked badly and large sections were missing. I couldn't get it all off but removed as much as I could using a grinding disk in the grinder, then an 80 grit flat disk and the belt sander and finally an 80 grit disk in a DA.
It looked ok after a coat of matt black, not sure what it would look like in gloss though!
The fan wasn't there when I painted the manifolds, I hung it back up after to keep it out of the way, I don't want to fit this until the brake pipe is here and unfortunatly the supplier sent copper rather than the copper nickel pipe that I ordered.
After letting them dry I then fitted them to the car
Next job will be to fit the exhaust, one of the first things I bought after buying the car was a secondhand exhaust, its a falcon stainless steel one and i've given it a bit of a clean and its in really good condition.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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Sept 18, 2022 20:51:48 GMT
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Those manifolds have come up nicely. Also I'm jealous of how much access you have to the manifolds in the engine bay. With the Daimler V8 in the same bay, its basically impossible to get at any of the exhaust bolts.
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Sept 18, 2022 21:14:34 GMT
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Those manifolds have come up nicely. Also I'm jealous of how much access you have to the manifolds in the engine bay. With the Daimler V8 in the same bay, its basically impossible to get at any of the exhaust bolts. Yes the V8 always looks a bit snug in the engine bay, I guess its because it was shoehorned in after Jaguar bought Daimler and so the engine bay wasnt designed with it in mind.
Still you have the wonderful sound of the V8 to compensate for the skinned knuckles!
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I've discovered a bit of an issue, it seems that the inlet manifold will fit next to the modifications I made for the X300 master cylinder and pedalbox but I didn't allow for the water rail that bolts onto this. On a 3.4 or 3.8 it wouldn't be an issue as the block is about 2" higher and the inlet manifold is different anyway. It looks like i'm going to have to break out the grinder and welder which is a real bummer at this stage of the project but I don't see another way around this, any suggestions welcome!
On a brighter note I took the thermostat out and found that the old one had broken on one side and was stuck mostly closed, this would align with the siezed engine full of granules that looked like dried antifreeze. My theory is that it broke, the car overheated, headgasket went and it got left and then passed around various people before ending up at my door.
I'm drowning my sorrows this evening while kicking myself for this error.
I always think it interesting to know why a car came off the road, my other MK2 had no reverse as the brake band in the gearbox had broken and this one it seems that the thermostat was the kiss of death.
This is the break and with it like this its totally stuck and would never open.
Any suggestion on the best thing to cut the bulkhead plate with as I would prefer not to use an angle grinder but the piece I added is made of 3mm plate.
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teaboy
Posted a lot
Make tea, not war.
Posts: 2,125
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Bummer about that.
Cut it with an air saw.
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Ah curse word....Gutting Homer, but you'll find a way around it.
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Ah curse word....Gutting Homer, but you'll find a way around it. Thats pretty much what I said but with far more curse words!
So today I thought I would just get fixing it out of the way.
I considered buying an air saw and suggested above but I used to have one and my compressor wasn't big enough to run it and I couldn't justify the expense of a reciprocating saw which would have been another option so the trusty old grinder it was.
I built a cardboard sheild to work within and taped it to the bulkhead:
With a bit of cutting, welding and grinding I ended up with this:
I test fitted the manifold and we know have a fair but of room.
I then masked it up:
And finally back in paint.
It doesn't look too bad but it would have been a better job (and far easier) before the engine went back in.
Never mind though I can now get the inlet manifold on.
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Nice neat job, especially given the restricted space, well done!
Jumping back to when you sprayed the car Homer, did you use any form of cooling for the airlines? I'm starting to get a few water droplets in my system. I've just bought a better filter (Norgren F74G) to replace my old Cheap eBay special, but looking on YouTube, people are getting better results with their filters when the air is cooled first. Not sure whether there's another new project for me to delay the finishing of my car even further!
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Nice neat job, especially given the restricted space, well done! Jumping back to when you sprayed the car Homer, did you use any form of cooling for the airlines? I'm starting to get a few water droplets in my system. I've just bought a better filter (Norgren F74G) to replace my old Cheap eBay special, but looking on YouTube, people are getting better results with their filters when the air is cooled first. Not sure whether there's another new project for me to delay the finishing of my car even further! I didn't have any cooling on mine, I just made sure the tank was emptied of any water before starting and had a water seperator at the regulator and a filter at the spray gun.
I think you can make a cooling loop to allow the air to cool down and water to drop out of it but i've not found the need as yet.
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