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Feb 28, 2020 19:26:59 GMT
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Due to a realignment in finances (bought swmbo a new daily) , the fun fund has been depleted to the point where a pro refurb is off the cards for her a4 cabrio wheels and it is now going to have to be a muggins DIY job. now the thing is i have never had any luck with clear over base rattle can paint , i can get a mean single coat finish but once clear gets involved it all goes to carp with bleeding of the base and the like! basically i am looking for a readily available can in a more or less factory shade/finish that i can lay on in one without the need for a clear coat. any recommendation people?
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating
'80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip
'97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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Feb 28, 2020 20:11:28 GMT
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I always used to paint my own wheels, but even with laquermind you, if there is any brake dust stuck to them I cant actually see it. the brake dust always stuck to them in no time at all. The only time I had wheels pro-referbed was the 4 spokes on my micra, but that was only because the previous owner had tried to paint them with really thick paint, possibly hammerite, using a broom. The wheels on my Cube needed doing as they were looking tired an id planned to re-do them silver, until my local hardware store did me a special on PlastiKote satin black. That was about 18 months ago and they still look fresh, no need for laquer. Mind you, if there is any brake dust stuck to them I cant actually see it.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,237 
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Wheel paint.Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Feb 28, 2020 21:30:34 GMT
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Due to a realignment in finances (bought swmbo a new daily) , the fun fund has been depleted to the point where a pro refurb is off the cards for her a4 cabrio wheels and it is now going to have to be a muggins DIY job. now the thing is i have never had any luck with clear over base rattle can paint , i can get a mean single coat finish but once clear gets involved it all goes to carp with bleeding of the base and the like! basically i am looking for a readily available can in a more or less factory shade/finish that i can lay on in one without the need for a clear coat. any recommendation people? Any silver will need a clearcoat otherwise it will be satin and probably porous. By the sound of it you are putting on too much clear or not letting the base dry. Aerosol lacquer will cloud and go patchy if it's over applied so its better to build up in thin layers if you are not comfortable putting on a decent wet coat. One of the best 'cheaper' lacquers I've used recently is Motip 'clear varnish', if you can find it, but the same applies, too much in one sitting and it will cloud. Too damp/cold during application and it will do the same also. A hair dryer is a good way to help combat that, it's not too hot but hot enough. |
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Wheel paint.Deleted
@Deleted
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Feb 29, 2020 10:07:18 GMT
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Pete - On the rare occasions that I have not been doing 4 wheels and therefore used a basecoat & lacquer system out of the gun - so doing just the one wheel - I have still used a basecoat & lacquer system but a pro aerosol version and to good effect - Has rich states it sounds like that you are not allowing sufficient time for the basecoat to dry - there is a lot difference between a pro / trade aerosol system and that of what you will purchase in Halfrauds - link below to the one that I use www.pro-xl.co.uk/product/prowheel-basecoat-aerosol/They then do a good single pack aerosol lacquer to apply over the basecoat - you wont get this anywhere other than a pro spray product range stockist - my supplier keeps it and I can always ship it to you if needs be - needless to say you will achieve a better result if you deflate the tyres and get a local tyre centre to push the tyre bead of the face rim first (but leave the tyre on the rim) but at this stage I'm probably teaching you to suck eggs |
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Last Edit: Feb 29, 2020 10:07:49 GMT by Deleted
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Wheel paint.Deleted
@Deleted
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Feb 29, 2020 10:54:39 GMT
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Due to a realignment in finances (bought swmbo a new daily) , the fun fund has been depleted to the point where a pro refurb is off the cards for her a4 cabrio wheels and it is now going to have to be a muggins DIY job. now the thing is i have never had any luck with clear over base rattle can paint , i can get a mean single coat finish but once clear gets involved it all goes to carp with bleeding of the base and the like! basically i am looking for a readily available can in a more or less factory shade/finish that i can lay on in one without the need for a clear coat. any recommendation people? If you end up thinking about clearcoat... Put the paint down in lots of layers with about 30mins between coats. Then let that cure off, scotchbrite it and wipe over with panel degreaser, then dry wipe any residue off. Then more layers of this stuff over the top with about 15 minutes dry time maximum...  Despite the name it's not a 2K paint, but it's a nice dense clearcoat that's as good as it gets without going to 2k. |
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Last Edit: Feb 29, 2020 11:02:11 GMT by Deleted
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,237
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Wheel paint.Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Feb 29, 2020 23:42:54 GMT
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Due to a realignment in finances (bought swmbo a new daily) , the fun fund has been depleted to the point where a pro refurb is off the cards for her a4 cabrio wheels and it is now going to have to be a muggins DIY job. now the thing is i have never had any luck with clear over base rattle can paint , i can get a mean single coat finish but once clear gets involved it all goes to carp with bleeding of the base and the like! basically i am looking for a readily available can in a more or less factory shade/finish that i can lay on in one without the need for a clear coat. any recommendation people? If you end up thinking about clearcoat... Put the paint down in lots of layers with about 30mins between coats. Then let that cure off, scotchbrite it and wipe over with panel degreaser, then dry wipe any residue off. Then more layers of this stuff over the top with about 15 minutes dry time maximum... Despite the name it's not a 2K paint, but it's a nice dense clearcoat that's as good as it gets without going to 2k. Yes except don’t scotch or key the metallic base coat, that is, err, not the way that’s done. Don’t key it, wipe it, touch it, anything. |
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Last Edit: Feb 29, 2020 23:44:04 GMT by Rich
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Wheel paint.Deleted
@Deleted
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I assume it's not metallic paint by the decision not to clearcoat it. But yes, if it's a metallic, don't key it, but it would need a clearcoat. That being the case, that "2k" stuff is 1000x better than the basic stuff you get in most shops.
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Last Edit: Mar 1, 2020 0:47:05 GMT by Deleted
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Wheel paint.Deleted
@Deleted
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Regardless of if it is a solid colour or a metallic the entire principal of a basecoat is that is applied & dried prior to the application of clearcoat - has Rich states at no stage should be basecoat be contacted by anything what so ever - same rule applies regardless of if the basecoat is water or solvent based |
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thanks for the input all. this will be a spring/summer job i think but has given me plenty to mull over. it has been a very (very) long time since ive done any clear over base , I'm sure i would have let the base fully dry , so perhaps i was over enthusiastic troweling on the clear? i seem to recall i ended up with a patchy/bloomy finish.
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating
'80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip
'97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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