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Sorry for your loss.
I lost my Mum just before Christmas. The paperwork is not what you need at that time. One service I did find useful was the option to "inform all" when registering the death. That saved lots of work contacting HMRC, Council etc.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-(
2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap
V8 Humber Hawk
1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD
1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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63v8
Part of things
Posts: 232
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Condolences from me and yes the paperwork seems never ending. The inconsistency of different organisations when informing them of a bereavement was shocking, Most were helpful and quick while others made it very difficult.
I am sure you have already informed the home insurance but when they adjusted the policy for bereavement one of the conditions was that I had to visit the home on a regular basis to check it. Not sure about the workshop but visiting your mums home should be OK depending on how the lock down rules change.
One problem I had was idiots leaving leaflets sticking out of the letterbox, so something for the neighbors to check on.
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So sorry to hear about your mum.
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Bicycle x1
Alfa Giulietta (now wife's)
Alfa 156
BMW 630i
Honda rc36
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Sincere condolences to you and your family.
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Liam...
'96 854 TDI SE, '99 V70 2.5D S, '05 C70 2.0T Collection, '05 S80 2.0T SE
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Same here, sorry to hear about this
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I am sorry to read of your loss, my thoughts are with you.
May I suggest that you have certified copies of any official documentation such as the death certificate made- a notary can do this rather than incur yet more solicitors fees. This will then at least allow you to deal with multiple organisations at once as very often they all want to see the official documents.
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No need for notarised copies, you can get extras when you register for not much.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-(
2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap
V8 Humber Hawk
1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD
1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
Club RR Member Number: 8
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No need for notarised copies, you can get extras when you register for not much. Someone advised me to get 20 extras when I registered as it is vastly more expensive to get copies later - and I used all 20. Some places will accept copies, some send them back, most want originals. |
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Thanks everyone for all the kind words. I'm having a few days break from doing death-admin stuff, but then I'll be back on it. I'll have to talk to the solicitors, because they've got mum's will...I don't anticipate any problems there, because it's an old firm that my mum has used for many years and they've always been pretty good. With any luck they'll be able to do everything remotely, although I half expect them to say, "Could you pop into the office?" Regardless of that, I think I will have to travel to my mum's house in the near future to sift through yet more paperwork, because I've discovered she may have had some sort of life insurance policy....which should be paying out now, shouldn't it? That's more documents to find, then. While I'm there I may try to de-clutter the garage a bit, and see if I can find out what sort of state the Rover is in... Fortunately it's possible to travel from my house to my mum's house while still maintaining social isolation. Walk out of my front door, get in Land Rover, drive off, arrive at mum's, get out of Land Rover and in her front door - no contact with any other human beings. I won't even touch any objects that don't already belong to me. Just in case the police flag me down and ask what I think I'm playing at, I'll have a copy of my mum's death certificate with me. I got 10 copies of the certificate, which so far looks like being more than enough. Some official bodies (such as my mum's bank) don't want to see the certificate itself - they just wanted me to read the serial number down the phone to them. Other organisations do want to see the actual document, like the credit company that operates her House Of Fraser store card. Land Rover is running quite well at the moment, by the way. After all the hassle with the brake adjusters even the brakes now work properly. At its last MOT I got a couple of advisories which I'll have to sort before the next MOT, but as we now have 6 months' extension on existing MOTs it's not a pressing problem. Of course, the Land Rover is old enough not to need an MOT at all, but I've always kept testing it because I think it's good to have an extra pair of eyes checking it over. It's a daily driver, after all. Now here's a funny thing. These are my advisories....  I know about the spring problem: a bush has collapsed, as they do eventually. That's a simple fix, although I have been thinking of getting a whole new set of springs. The existing springs were fitted by a previous owner and I think they're Br*tp*art items. They're not in great shape, anyway. But the corrosion - I can't find it! The chassis has been patched and patched and patched many times over the years. It's even got patches on top of patches. But both the spring hangers and the relevant chassis areas on the nearside rear are perfectly fine. Everything is solid. So what was the MOT tester on about? |
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If it wasn’t for the current madness I’d say go & ask him! If you’re happy that it’s ok then I wouldn’t worry too much, do you think he was just looking for things to put to show he’d been looking?
Usually they go for ‘oil leak’ 🙄
I had an mot tester fail a Carlton gsi on a blowing exhaust, when I asked him where, his reply was ‘ I don’t know!’
Needless to say he didn’t get any more mots from me
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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It can be within a foot of either mounting point so I’ve seen know-nothing testers give advisories for things like crusty tub floor spars because they don’t know what separate chassis means.
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It can be within a foot of either mounting point so I’ve seen know-nothing testers give advisories for things like crusty tub floor spars because they don’t know what separate chassis means. Hmmmm. The battery box, which hangs down underneath within a foot of the spring hanger, is rather crusty. It's been patched up by a previous owner with a sheet of steel rivetted on. Not a problem - it's non-structural and the battery is under the bonnet anyway. But if you didn't know much about Land Rovers maybe this would look like an advisory?  It's the only rusty thing anywhere near the location, anyway. The chassis itself is quite good in this area (other areas...not so much). I reckon a quick rub-down and a coat of Hammerite black will do the job! |
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If it wasn’t for the current madness I’d say go & ask him! If you’re happy that it’s ok then I wouldn’t worry too much, do you think he was just looking for things to put to show he’d been looking? Usually they go for ‘oil leak’ 🙄 I had an mot tester fail a Carlton gsi on a blowing exhaust, when I asked him where, his reply was ‘ I don’t know!’ Needless to say he didn’t get any more mots from me I've got all the usual Land Rover oil leaks! At MOT time I give the underside a good clean-up and hope it doesn't disgrace itself when it's on the ramp. The rear crankshaft seal is definitely a bit iffy, but then the entire bottom end of the engine is very worn. The front crankshaft bearing in particular is hardly there. Once, when I had the sump off, I reached up and found I could wobble the crankshaft to and fro at the front end. All this is on my list of things to get sorted once I can get the vehicle into my garage....but the Land Rover has to help me build the garage first. |
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It’s a landy, it doesn’t leak, it marks its spot
If it stops leaking that’s when you have to worry!
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If there's no oil under it, there's no oil in it!!
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TessierAshpool
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 520
Club RR Member Number: 168
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That patch looks like probably the guilty party - as mentioned its anything within a foot (or rather 30cm to be exact) of the leaf spring's mountings that could be at fault. AFAIK there is no requirement for the item to be structural, only that it is within that distance.
I usually get the tester to talk me through any advisories when I collect the vehicle, they can usually give you a bit more info than what's on the sheet while it's fresh in their mind.
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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A bit late perhaps, but a well meant sorry for your loss.
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So he advises on a rusty ‘chassis’ but not on the fact that the repair is pop riveted on?
I think I’d be looking for a more landy savvy mot’er, If thats the extent of knowledge the mot probably isn’t going to the the check over you wanted anyway
Sounds like one place near me that passed my rrc despite a crushed brake pipe meaning that the rear brakes were all but totally inoperative!
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TessierAshpool
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 520
Club RR Member Number: 168
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I'd disagree comfortablynumb - the tester has spotted corrosion within a prescribed area and so is required to either fail on it or advise, depending on severity. Regardless of how the repair was done or the model of vehicle, it's a clearcut item to be tested per their manual. Your brake pipe however sounds like a failure on the part of your tester - surely should have been picked up in the braking efficiency check or the main check "Chafing, corrosion or damage to a rigid brake pipe so that its wall thickness is reduced by 1/3 (approximately 0.25mm for typical hydraulic brake pipe) justifies rejection, although it’s accepted that this is not easy to determine". If it's a flexible line, should only fail if excessively damaged, deteriorated, chafed, twisted or stretched, although could still be advised for less. |
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