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Nov 30, 2019 21:32:24 GMT
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I'd personally be a bit scared in case they snapped. I guess you have it clear in your head how it will work. Is there not some really long wheel bolts that you can get to do away with the studs? . Be safe mate we all like ya .
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Nov 30, 2019 21:52:56 GMT
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I think that the problems you have with the first idea of drilling the wheels are as follows: get one wrong and it's a scrap wheel. Is it the sort of thing that you can do accurately at home? It's certainly a big pillar drill job for me. Also, if they are done successfully, then they would have to stay with the car otherwise nobody would buy them.
The studs and nuts idea is easier, reversible and neater. It's also not an expensive solution. Now I am no engineer, but the first thing I would be querying is "are they strong enough for the job you want them for?". Whilst I have never had an issue with anything bought from China, there may be critical differences in what's regarded as good enough.
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I'd personally be a bit scared in case they snapped. I guess you have it clear in your head how it will work. Is there not some really long wheel bolts that you can get to do away with the studs? . Be safe mate we all like ya . Thank you mate. Sill in research phase. I think that the problems you have with the first idea of drilling the wheels are as follows: get one wrong and it's a scrap wheel. Is it the sort of thing that you can do accurately at home? It's certainly a big pillar drill job for me. Also, if they are done successfully, then they would have to stay with the car otherwise nobody would buy them. The studs and nuts idea is easier, reversible and neater. It's also not an expensive solution. Now I am no engineer, but the first thing I would be querying is "are they strong enough for the job you want them for?". Whilst I have never had an issue with anything bought from China, there may be critical differences in what's regarded as good enough. Have a big pillar drill in the garage. But it will only work if tyres are removed. £100.00 for the wheels, while I do not like to waste money outright, is a low price risk. I like reversible solutions
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. 01 December..... Good morning all. PS. Got yer tree up yet?? Thought so. Amazed at the amount of sharing and input on this car so quickly. Thanks a lot all. PS. Bonus “Copy and Paste”Back behind the counter, she declined payment and said she would pick up the tab. ![](https://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm90/niknakpix/France-Grizz-Goose/5E4653A7-A13A-4155-88D2-A8DC9F6D8A4F_zpsspzei5ir.jpg) And from 💜 Kelly 💜 a message to all the readers and guys who do post replies on here. ![](https://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm90/niknakpix/France-Grizz-Goose/55EDADD7-AA17-4DE7-9E4C-453A13C157E6_zpsc7mnhftx.jpg)
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Last Edit: Dec 1, 2019 7:11:03 GMT by grizz
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Good find with that 2.3 Galaxy. Is that a Duratec engine or a VW one?
With regards to fitting mercedes alloys onto VW hubs, all mercedes should use 'radius' seat bolts - not tapered. Older Mercedes use M12x1.5 thread, and the radius size is R12. Later Mercedes use M14x1.5 with radius size R14.
If you are sure the alloys are from an earlier Mercedes and the holes are definately too narrow, then drilling is a good option. If you're careful it should be fine. I've done this successfuly with a hand drill before. Just take your time.
Now, the problem will be that you will need bolts with a m14x1.5 thread size, but the smaller R12 radius seat. Sure - many do fit the wrong radius bolts into their alloys, and it does work to a degree. Most don't know theres a difference, but it concerns the engineer in me. The bolts you need are available.
With regards to those conversion studs, I've no direct experience of them, but they do concern me. I would check that they are at least grade 10.9 strenght steel first.
Lastly, you're probably already aware of this, but the Mercedes and VW wheels may have the same PCD, but they have different centre bore sizes. So, you will need some suitably sized spiggot rings.
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Good find with that 2.3 Galaxy. Is that a Duratec engine or a VW one? With regards to fitting mercedes alloys onto VW hubs, all mercedes should use 'radius' seat bolts - not tapered. Older Mercedes use M12x1.5 thread, and the radius size is R12. Later Mercedes use M14x1.5 with radius size R14. If you are sure the alloys are from an earlier Mercedes and the holes are definately too narrow, then drilling is a good option. If you're careful it should be fine. I've done this successfuly with a hand drill before. Just take your time. Now, the problem will be that you will need bolts with a m14x1.5 thread size, but the smaller R12 radius seat. Sure - many do fit the wrong radius bolts into their alloys, and it does work to a degree. Most don't know theres a difference, but it concerns the engineer in me. The bolts you need are available. With regards to those conversion studs, I've no direct experience of them, but they do concern me. I would check that they are at least grade 10.9 strenght steel first. Lastly, you're probably already aware of this, but the Mercedes and VW wheels may have the same PCD, but they have different centre bore sizes. So, you will need some suitably sized spiggot rings. Thank you for the well thought through reply and observations. 2.3 Duratec Ford motor. Lastly, you're probably already aware of this, but the Mercedes and VW wheels may have the same PCD, but they have different centre bore sizes. So, you will need some suitably sized spiggot rings28/11/19 As you know by now, the centre bore differs significantly between Mercedes Benz and Ford. 66.6 vs 57.1 Ordered some ally items for £8.50 delivered this morning With regards to fitting mercedes alloys onto VW hubs, all mercedes should use 'radius' seat bolts - not tapered. Older Mercedes use M12x1.5 thread, and the radius size is R12. Later Mercedes use M14x1.5 with radius size R14.
No idea what age they are.
If you are sure the alloys are from an earlier Mercedes and the holes are definately too narrow, then drilling is a good option. If you're careful it should be fine. I've done this successfuly with a hand drill before. Just take your time Measured the rear exits of the holes and they are close to 13mm if anything, but may be worth removing a Galaxy bolt and checking physically if it fits the hole. Now, the problem will be that you will need bolts with a m14x1.5 thread size, but the smaller R12 radius seat. Sure - many do fit the wrong radius bolts into their alloys, and it does work to a degree. Most don't know theres a difference, but it concerns the engineer in me. The bolts you need are available. I thought they looked like radius down there, and visually, I suspect the R12 variation, finding the right bolts will be more interesting With regards to those conversion studs, I've no direct experience of them, but they do concern me. I would check that they are at least grade 10.9 strenght steel first. Thought crossed my mind too. Of course checking is not that easy on eBay at times.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,268
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Basically the Mercedes wheels should use a ‘ball’ seated wheel bolt, not a straight tapered one. I’m fairly sure the wheels are for M12x1.5 bolts, my memory of that era Mercedes isn’t great but one I thing I’ve done on them plenty of times is remove wheels on PDI checks and I’m fairly sure they are a ‘13MM’ bolt hole. The studs seem a good idea, but using ball seat nuts not taper, unless of course the wheels for some reason don’t follow the Mercedes norm.
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Basically the Mercedes wheels should use a ‘ball’ seated wheel bolt, not a straight tapered one. I’m fairly sure the wheels are for M12x1.5 bolts, my memory of that era Mercedes isn’t great but one I thing I’ve done on them plenty of times is remove wheels on PDI checks and I’m fairly sure they are a ‘13MM’ bolt hole. The studs seem a good idea, but using ball seat nuts not taper, unless of course the wheels for some reason don’t follow the Mercedes norm. I guess bolt holes are bigger to allow for all sorts, so 15mm will be needed for 14mm studs. That equals 4mm over the diameter in a 2mm cut Studs www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-Pieces-M14-1-5mm-to-M12-1-5mm-58mm-Length-Wheel-Stud-Conversion-Kit/333395965523Not any ball or dome shaped nuts, bolts are there.
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Question that needs asking ... are these a 'forever' wheel ? If so re-drilling would be my choice ... conversion bolts unknown quality etc.... If they are not 'forever' wheels then two options, after modifying, sell them on to another Galaxy owner, weigh them in for scrap when you've finished with them ... Just a thought ![:-/](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/undecided.png) ps measure up the centre caps and get some a) Ford logo one's or b)get some blank ones !
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Hi Rian ".... Spider Man, Batman, silver blank or Black background Ford items saved on EBay 😉 " uuuhhmm Spiderman ..err no...Batman ..well ... Transformer would work.... ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png)
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Last Edit: Dec 1, 2019 10:19:09 GMT by westbay
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Hi Rian ".... Spider Man, Batman, silver blank or Black background Ford items saved on EBay 😉 " uuuhhmm Spiderman ..err no...Batman ..well ... Transformer would work.... ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png) Black Ford or Transformer..... after all, it’s a Transforming car.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,874
Club RR Member Number: 174
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I've drilled several sets of wheel bolt holes out for this same problem. I got a reduced shank 15mm drill and just went through them with the hand drill. It's a clearance hole so as long as it's something like centered it doesn't make any difference.
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I've drilled several sets of wheel bolt holes out for this same problem. I got a reduced shank 15mm drill and just went through them with the hand drill. It's a clearance hole so as long as it's something like centered it doesn't make any difference. Funny how I wait for certain people to comment....... Thanks Matt, you are a wheely nice guy too. This was my thinking too, the extra 1mm is exactly that, clearance. I think a steady hand with a fresh drill bit in my large Bosch power drill will do the job, possibly followed by a slight reaming (Ooohhh Matron) with something larger to re-establish the curved seat.
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Last Edit: Dec 1, 2019 10:49:57 GMT by grizz
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,874
Club RR Member Number: 174
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I'd get the 50s, you can always chop the end off if they're too long.
I've got a adapter/driver so I can use a socket on the drill, then just use a sacrificial wheel bolt and a bit of diamond lapping paste and buzz it round on the wheels to clean the seats up.
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en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_I4_DOHC_engineSorry, Grizz. Duratecs are all-alloy Mazda engines, I4 is what you have, an actual Ford engine. It may have "Duratec" stickers (like the mk1 Focus RS and ST170 engines do, although they are Zetecs!) As in the other thread, pub quiz!
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I'd get the 50s, you can always chop the end off if they're too long. I've got a adapter/driver so I can use a socket on the drill, then just use a sacrificial wheel bolt and a bit of diamond lapping paste and buzz it round on the wheels to clean the seats up. Thanks Matt, Makes sense, and having removed the existing bolts, it looks like 50 will be needed anyway. Take a look at the Ford items. Not a 60 degree taper as expected either. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_I4_DOHC_engineSorry, Grizz. Duratecs are all-alloy Mazda engines, I4 is what you have, an actual Ford engine. It may have "Duratec" stickers (like the mk1 Focus RS and ST170 engines do, although they are Zetecs!) As in the other thread, pub quiz! Was going to look what’s on the engine cover. Suspect I completely wrote the wrong thing in my eagerness to reply.
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Well Ford don't make it easy, Sigmas badged as Zetecs, Zetecs badged as Duratecs, cars that have Zetec badging with diesel engines, who can keep up!?
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