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Mar 24, 2020 20:51:50 GMT
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Cradle completed, the engine sits on it until bolted up so nice and easy to get in and out - These are more for locating position that anything else as I wouldn't want to rely on these as they are not very strong, I cannot remember what purpose they had on the bike but it wasn't for mounting. They may have held a pipe in place or something. But fine as position locators - This was a proper mount and is again, there is another one above it which I will pick up, the weight of the steel work on the drivers side will add a bit of weight to counter balance the engine - Bad picture as it had gone dark but I am making the top mount which again picks up a proper bike mounting position. I am making with detachable final fittings so again they can be removed and the engine lifted straight out - Needs tidying and painting.
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Mar 28, 2020 17:44:24 GMT
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All rad and oil hoses done, just need some decent jubilee clips so I cannot fill either, also started on the loom, the electrical connection for the fan rad was at the back of the engine, extended the grounds t the chassis, small but time consuming jobs Sequential shifter in position and working, bought a cheap handbrake off ebay and just used the bits I wanted Needs tidying up a bit but works Drive shaft is super close to the clutch cylinder so this will need a rethink, I've chopped the housing down to get the drive shaft in which is fine but the cylinder fouls at present when fitted Not enough clearance, I chopped the driveshaft to check, more jobs to do
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What are your plans for a reverse gear?
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What are your plans for a reverse gear? Get out and push, at 650kg it shouldn't be hard. Interested to ideas though.
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You may find this interesting?
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
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When I converted a mate’s trike years ago, so he could ride it with his disabilities, we added a reverse by sandwiching a home made gear wheel between the rear prop and axle flanges, and used an old starter motor mounted next to the diff to give an electric reverse. It was a bit harsh, but it worked.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Re clutch slave... if you make a spacer plate, say 10mm ali and countersink the mount bolts to the engine. Offset the mounting bolt holes for the slave so you can rotate it anti clockwise to get the pipe fitting to the top. You can get banjo bolts with a bleed nipple and bleed from there if needed. You’d need to make a push rod 10mm longer.
Great project by the way. Should be lots of fun when done.
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Last Edit: Apr 6, 2020 8:48:58 GMT by vincento
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Test fit, had to chop the transmission tunnel out and basically anything under the bonnet to get the shell on, Only the header tank fill pipe is poking through, the rest will fit - Loads to do, need a rear engine mount, need to redo the transmission tunnel, foot wells, etc. At this moment in time I do not have anything between the engine bay and interior. The seating position will be moved back but i have space to do that. I thought I was going to need a flip front end for maintenance but it's actually quite accessible. Will most likely need shorter or softer springs as it is still way to high.
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Coming along nicely
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Last Edit: Apr 8, 2020 19:34:45 GMT by yoeddynz
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That looks right at home in there!
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Apr 10, 2020 19:18:24 GMT
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Apr 10, 2020 19:19:50 GMT
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It clears a lot more than the first image would suggest
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TessierAshpool
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 520
Club RR Member Number: 168
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Apr 10, 2020 22:06:10 GMT
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Just come across this thread, and I like what I see
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Apr 13, 2020 12:12:28 GMT
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Started on the wiring loom had to extend various existing wires to get the loom to go in the right direction without pulling things to tight. Also routed the front side lights, low beam, high beam, indicators and horn to the front. Clearly for all the lights I have had to go from one to two with this being a bike loom. The bike had a few unique to bike features like it has an S on the dash which is for if the stand is down, this would also stop you going anywhere if it is illuminated but it would seem all you have to do is unplug the connector to get rid of it, which seems a little strange as I would have imagined it would have been safer to have it as on if the connector becomes detached.
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TessierAshpool
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 520
Club RR Member Number: 168
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Apr 13, 2020 20:35:22 GMT
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Does the side stand switch stop it starting, or kill it when you put it in gear? If the latter, might be handy to wire it in to a handbrake sensor and/or door switch? Obviously not useful if it just kills spark completely, as you want to be able to start the car when parked!
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Does the side stand switch stop it starting, or kill it when you put it in gear? If the latter, might be handy to wire it in to a handbrake sensor and/or door switch? Obviously not useful if it just kills spark completely, as you want to be able to start the car when parked! I'm not sure, I think it the latter. It also has a micro switch on the clutch that I think stops you starting it unless the clutch is in, this could be used fro something else also. I need to get some fluids in and exhaust on so I can start it at some point.
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Seem to remember another bike engined build on here that had all sorts of kill switch issues. Doable in the end, but all sorts of interlocks had to be bypassed. Uselessly, I can't remember which build. Sorry.
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Does the side stand switch stop it starting, or kill it when you put it in gear? If the latter, might be handy to wire it in to a handbrake sensor and/or door switch? Obviously not useful if it just kills spark completely, as you want to be able to start the car when parked! I'm not sure, I think it the latter. It also has a micro switch on the clutch that I think stops you starting it unless the clutch is in, this could be used fro something else also. I need to get some fluids in and exhaust on so I can start it at some point. cbrforum.com/forum/attachments/general-tech-9/44897d1501284431-please-help-me-figure-out-my-wiring-harness-pics-f3wiring.jpg. I junked the side stand switch and clutch switch on a couple of track bikes I had. Just need to make the circuit at the connectors.
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Last Edit: Apr 14, 2020 8:20:46 GMT by vincento
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TessierAshpool
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 520
Club RR Member Number: 168
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I'm not sure, I think it the latter. It also has a micro switch on the clutch that I think stops you starting it unless the clutch is in, this could be used fro something else also. I need to get some fluids in and exhaust on so I can start it at some point. Clutch switch is pretty standard nowadays on bikes, stops you accidentally lurching it off the stand if you brush the starter switch.
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