1947 ford ranger...

Think Dez used the Pulmax(?) from a few pages back to make that Rian.

P. : D

Regarding your lamps dez you can get a dual function LED in a warm white/amber that cancels the white function when the amber is required. I’m going to use them on the Jeep when I fit US clear turns. I’ll find you a link.

ETA: here ya go.. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182335069256

Out of all the people I know I thought it may be you who had the answer!
They sound ideal though, I will await you link-age.

Well, with the cab off and on it’s back I’ve been addressing some of the metalwork that needed finishing on it before it’s ready for paint.

I had to weld the back side of the boxing in over the prop bearing crossmember, as it wasn’t accessible from above.

Before-


Welded and ground-


The extraneous bits of tunnel that stuck down below floor level were ground back, mostly to save my knuckles if I ever have to do anything under here. Previously it was sticking down like the unfinished bit at the top here-


I also got the back edge of the trans tunnel to prop tunnel join finished off. Very tricky to do solely from above, much easier when I could work from both sides with the hammer and dolly.
Shaped and Welded-


Ground up. Remember there was no tunnel at all here before.


I welded up and smoothed out the hole I’d cut for a steering column when I was considering making it RHD (we all make mistakes, you just get better at hiding them!)




And on the other side I welded up the old pedal bump stop holes, a big crack in the floor around one of those, and sundry smaller screw holes that were now unneeded.




That’s the lower/underneath section done, onto the firewall and the front part of the trans tunnel hole next...

You’re making me want to buy this and have a play. I think if I was at home with my garage it would be a done deal.

So, that firewall.
After About 50 small bolt/screw holes (sub-1/2” size) being filled
10 big enough to actually need patches
And 3 swages reshaped/terminated
I have this!


The swage here originally ran through the area where the wiring loom hole has now been let in, so it was terminated and the end rounded off. I’ve left the one threaded insert at the bottom for a chassis to body earth strap.


Other side and the swage has been cut in half by the two master cyls, so I rounded off the end of the top section, and reshaped the bottom bit so the swage doesn’t run that way at all. The mounting holes for the brake and clutch master cyls are obvious, the 6 holes further out are for the spreader plate that bolts up over this entire section on the inside.


The view from the inside, as yet unground, shows the amount of work that has gone on!






That lot will all be ground up and metal finished too in due course, as the inside will be finished in a bedliner type product.

Only the front/top of the new transmission tunnel recess to do under here now.

sure i've missed it somewhere along the way... but is the exterior staying "as is"? hope so.

Another little bit done in between other things, I repaired the fuel tank splash guard that sits down the side of the tank and protects it from spray within the rear arch.
The earlier versions of these really suffered with tank rot especially in the seams, but on later ones Mazda/Ford have really gone to town to protect them. As well as the tank being coated in a bedliner type product, they have this guard down the outside edge of the tank underneath the chassis rail to keep that side of the tank clean, and a hefty bashguard underneath that also keeps the dirt away.

I got it blasted with all the other stuff as it was a bit crispy, and it came back with holes but not as bad as I expected. It was only the double skinned bits were the mounting tabs were that needed work.

At the back I cut out and replaced these two areas where it was spot welded together. The bracket itself was ok after a grind up.




Reattached-




At the front it was also holed around this little tab that bolts to the front spring hanger, and the stud had broken removing it. Notice the reference measurements for where the stud goes.


Bracket removed and stud replaced by grinding the head off and welding a new bolt on-


And after the holey bit in the panel was patched in it was stuck back on-


And it’s now been chucked in the box with all the other bolt on chassis bits to be painted.

I e got a set from them that fit behind some pretty flat lenses. They do two types, one that keeps the sidelights on when you indicate (and they pretty much over power the indicators) and a set that cancels the sidelights.

They are a top supplier though, really helpful with sorting any issues with getting them to work